metal sheds

[jaywood]

Hello to all I am after a new workshop and I am thinking of a metal shed so what do you guys think of them am thay any good and so thay have much vibration when you use power tools in their have any of you guys got them many thanks

 

[walksatnight]

I had one suffered with terrible condensation though so built a new shed out of timber

 

[Ed Bray]

I've got one that I just use for storage of large stuff (couple of top-boxes, old tool cabinet, radial arm saw, gardening stuff etc). It did suffer badly from condensation until I cut in a couple of 'boat' mushroom vents one each side of the roof. Helped a lot, but Icertainly wouldn't want to work in there either in the winter (freezing) or the summer (too bloody hot).

 

[Mark A]

I used a metal shed as a workshop for five years... never again! In the first winter the condensation dripped incessantly from the roof, and when the temperature dropped low enough everything inside would be covered in frost. To prevent this I fitted guttering inside to catch the drips and placed small lightbulbs in cabinets and under the larger tools to keep the temperature above the dew point. Although these measures worked, it wasn't worth all the hassle.

I also found the metal structure amplified any noise.

Build a wooden shed and insulate it!

 

[jaywood]

Thanks for all your replys just what I needed to know thanks

 

[Steve-O]

I can echo the above, I have one at the moment and lt is terrible for condensation and is only used for storage of the gardening tools etc. However, on the plus side it is very sturdy and maintenance free...

Stephen

 

[SammyQ]

I lined my tin (corrugated) roof with bubble wrap (in several layers) at the height of the summer. Bingo! Warmth and condensation free in winter. Also cheaper than Celotex or similar. You need to pay a little attention to the gaps twixt tin and wall plate. I had the arris-end of a tin of 'spanding foam and used that VERY sparingly, tin didn't lift, but draughts went away.

Sam

PS It lets in ight under clear polycarbonate, but prevents thieving scrotes eyeballing your gear, as it is opaque.

 

[bodge]

I lined my tin (corrugated) roof with bubble wrap (in several layers) at the height of the summer. Bingo! Warmth and condensation free in winter............

I like your style sir! How did you fix it in place Sammy?
I reckon this could be a very viable option for me as my wavy tin roof rains on me when it is frosty, but I have close to zero budget to sort it out. Just looked and 100 square metres of bubble wrap can be had for less than £20 delivered, that would cover my roof close to three times.

 

[SammyQ]

Bodge/Pete, I did it the simplest way possible.

I made up a 'batt' of bubble wrap (several layers deep) cut to fit inside the panels formed by my roof's timbers. As I'm a cheapskate, I had used 3"x2" timber, so I think that meant 3 layers of wrap, held loosely together with any old sticky tape..

I then stapled a cord on one side of the first roofing bay, at roughly centre-line, pushed the batt up into place, holding it with one hand, then stretching the cord across and quickly stapling it into place on the opposite side. That meant I had the batt draped over the cord, but it was at least in place. 15 seconds and 2 more support strings and the batt was filling the bay, sagging a bit at the corners.

The final touch (and it's a good idea to prevent interstitial condensation) was a scrap piece of clear DPM, maybe 1200 guage, from a building job (you could use any clear plastic) placed over the batt's lower surface and edge-stapled all the way around the 'bay' at about 2-3" centres onto the roof timbers.

I found I didn't need to Tyvac the edges or anything similar. The DPM makes the the job look tidy, even where the edges may be rough cut or rough stapled. Four years on, no problems.


Sam

 

[bodge]

Thanks Sam. Unfortunately I have steel purlins instead of timbers, so not able to staple and I may have to get a little bit creative! I wonder if contact cement would hold it ....
Thanks for the tip anyway. 8)

 

[SammyQ]

Pete, try double-sided tape, the 2" wide sort that carpet fitters use. I use 1/2" lengths of it for holding templates securely when routing and it's that strong I reckon a front row forward would struggle to free himself from a yard of it, so a scrap of DPM and a smidgeon of bubblewrap being held in place should be nae probs for it.

Sam

 

[bodge]

The only thing that worries me about the tape is that in summer the roof gets VERY hot and I suspect that the adhesive would soften and let go. Other than that, I agree that it sticks like poo to a blanket, usually to itself or my hair!

 

[SammyQ]

:-k Yeerrrrsssss.....contact adhesive as y'say or Gripfill, with a batten wedged underneath the seam until it cures?
Sam

 

[bodge]

Hmmm. Think I might give the Gripfill a go. Reckon it might be a little easier to use than contact adhesive.
Thanks for your input Sam. 8)

 

[Mark A]

Stixall adheres to metal very well

 

[deema]

A 20' container makes a very respectable shed. Great security and with a small heater / vents the damp can be keep at bay. Angle grind out a window and use the bit that comes out to make a security cover. Easy to move with you if you do a 'flit' / sell on if you upgrade.

The container is a relatively cheap shed option.