mdf shaker style door

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KentAndy

Established Member
Joined
17 Jun 2014
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
Kent UK
I am looking at making some shaker style doors from mdf. I just wanted to check my plan to see what you guys think.

I was going to get 12mm mdf cut to size or a couple of mm over. Glue 6mm strips on. Possibly flush route the edges so the joins aren't obvious.

As the 12mm and 6mm glues will be 18mm I am assuming I can use concealed hinges.

Will this work or will it be disaster?

Cheers,
 
Thank you. Alternatively, I have a 6mm t and g router cutter. Would that work with 18mm edges and a 6mm middle?
 
The way you propose works - I've made loads this way - but somewhere on here someone suggested making proper panelled doors in a very simple way. So simple that I took note! But I'm damned if I can find it now.

The method was as you suggest - 18mm edges routed for a 6mm panel. The simple bit was to rout the edges right to the ends - including the actual ends of the top and bottom - and slide a 6mm strip in to form a joint at the corners.

It's a method I'll be trying in future because I think it will be quicker and easier than fiddling around with overlays. And I would use MR MDF (search this - the benefits are obvious!).

18mm is the minimum depth you can use concealed hinges on so you'll be OK there.

Good luck! (If I find that post I'll let you know!)

Cheers

Paul
 
Paul200":2vk2vlet said:
The way you propose works - I've made loads this way - but somewhere on here someone suggested making proper panelled doors in a very simple way. So simple that I took note! But I'm damned if I can find it now.
..........
Paul
I made my kitchen doors using a Wealden combination cutter.
http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Combination_Bit_193.html
It all fits together beautifully giving proper panelled doors.
I used real wood (oak) throughout including the panels.
Been in use for several years without any snags or problems.
 
It really just depends on how you want to do them, planting on the edge strips onto 12mm mdf is the easiest, you can't really go wrong with it as long as you've just your mdf the correct size in the first place.
Lots of people on here do it this way for wardrobes etc so it's perfectly acceptable.
 
tomf":323wdf04 said:
It really just depends on how you want to do them, planting on the edge strips onto 12mm mdf is the easiest, you can't really go wrong with it as long as you've just your mdf the correct size in the first place.
Lots of people on here do it this way for wardrobes etc so it's perfectly acceptable.
I can see it being a nightmare glue-up, unless you clamp and drive pins in from the back, firstly because of alignment - there's nothing to index against (OK, build a jig...) - and secondly because of glue squeeze-out.

I know you'll still get squeeze-out with the loose-tenon approach, but there's less of it, and it's mostly on flat surfaces (so very easy to remove). It also aligns itself 'automatically': clamping across the door is all you should need.

I'm probably doing some tall Shaker wardrobe doors soon (haven't decided if I want one or two central rails). I do have a Shaker rail+stile cutter set for the RT, which I've not yet used, but the simple, loose tongue, approach looks elegant.

The only aesthetic difference would be that my rail & style set gives a 15 degree bevel on the panel aperture, and I'm told this helps to stop it being a dust trap (good in bedrooms). It may also give it a bit more style.

Using the loose tenon approach, I guess you might just quickly cut a bevel on the arrises of bottom and centre rails, but it wouldn't look as classy (IMHO). Shaker stuff was subtle, as well as simple.

The idea of planting on the 'rails' and 'stiles' for a 6'3" door doesn't thrill me. I can see you might do one stile first, to align the rest against, but the chance of a parsnip, or even a full radish, at least with me trying it, must be around 75%.

Aiming for a vegetable-free job... ;-)

E.
 
Thanks for all of the replies.

I think I will go for 18mm frame and a 6mm interior using tongue and groove router bits.

Do you think I should fit them snug?
 
Back
Top