Maximising a rough wood blank

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Point noted Mark, it was in fact cross grain (walnut) and as you say most parting tools are tang handled.

However I've always kept mine sharp and having experienced binding on spindles in my early days of turning always ensure that any cuts are relieved as I go to prevent this due to heat or trapped shavings that can, or should that be will, give problems.

I have found that the diamond form parting tools with their better side relief and relatively narrow width cutting edge in relation to the shaft stiffness and tang size have not caused me problems, although the improved metal to wood contact reduction from a friction point of view does mean shavings clearance is still paramount so that they don't feed into the side 'Vee'.

Of course the slim through handle stock parting tools have no risk from tangs but are a catch risk due to their shorter handles for control and side binding if a little clearance is not worked in.

I guess like most turning hazards it's being made aware of them that is the major criteria, parting into cross grain in an open grained wood with it's dig in or interrupted cut risk and possibly combined with no attention to side clearance could be tantamount to a match for a good skew catch.
 
Is there a reasonably priced version of the cole jaw out there somewhere, or is it possible to make your own relatively easily?
 
BearTricks":19pf8gbs said:
Is there a reasonably priced version of the cole jaw out there somewhere, or is it possible to make your own relatively easily?

There are several good videos on youtube on how to make your own cole jaws.

I made mine out of some scrap 12mm ply and have them permanently mounted on an old Record Power chuck. I used flanged hex bolts and t-nuts for the button fixings. Axminster charge an absolutely ridiculous price for buttons, I used rubber instrument case feet I found on ebay here for £2.52 for 10:

I think the total outlay (excluding the chuck) was around a tenner. You need to be very careful marking out where the holes for the t-nuts go - mount the blank jaws on the chuck and mark circles out with a skew on the lathe. Then drill them out on a drill press. Using a skew to create grooves guides the drill. If the buttons aren't in exactly the right places the work will not run true (as I found out on my prototype!)

You can click on the images for full-size versions:

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edit: With apologies to CHJ for hijackng his thread!
 
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