Mathieson No 17 skew rebate plane

[dickm]

As mentioned in the wooden plane thread, this came from a workshop in Peterhead some years ago, and has been languishing in the loft. It's in need of quite a bit of work, and a couple of new blades, but it's a nice piece, with the dovetailed boxwood sole.

Some obvious points:
1. Needs new diamond-shaped "captive nuts" to hold the fence on to the fence arms (First pic)
2. And one of the cups for the head of the securing bolt for above. (third pic)
3. One or two nicking irons
4. One new boxwood wedge for the fence arm
5. Something done about the existing brasswork - it's almost furry.

The captive nuts are in hand, but constructing the cup with its two wings is an "interesting" task.
Have only managed to find one similar on the web, so any additional information would be very welcome.

 

[dickm]

Working on this this morning, and discovered that the boxwood sole behind the iron is moveable, fore and aft. So the support to the back of the iron seems a bit inadequate.
Anyone know whether the sole should be glued in place? (It's an amazingly close fit - probably less slop than there is in the topslide of the metalworking lathe )

 

[Digit]

No sign of glue on mine Dick, I imagine that your example could well have dried out, try plenty of Linseed oil and see if that expands the two halves.

Roy.

 

[AndyT]

I've remembered to have a look at the old plough bodies I've got to see if they could be suitable donors - but the brasswork is quite different, so I expect this is a distinctive Mathieson pattern. Presumably one end cracked and fell out, making the rivet loose; the owner tightened it with a hammer and broke the other one. How sloppy is it? If the fence stays put once the wedges are tightened, I'd be inclined to leave well alone. Putting new brass in place would mean that you would have to remove the existing rivet, which would not be easy.
I wonder if they were indeed woodscrews - I can see no other reason why there would be a slot on one end.

 

[jimi43]

I simply love Mathieson planes of every flavour and this one is no exception.

IMHO they are far better made than Norris etc.

I love the dovetails on this one....that is sheer over the top beauty.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Richard T]

My first browse down the photos got me wondering about whether the sliding dovetails might be tapered toward the rear to stop movement and I was racking my brain to think how these could have both been fitted in the first place ... then I read that they do slide.

I think oil expansion might be the way as Roy says. I wonder what Mr. Mouldy Plane thinks about it?

 

[AndyT]

The elaborate dovetails etc to hold the boxing were definitely cut straight. Unsurprisingly, plane makers used special planes to make them. Salaman's dictionary has a long description listing the different planes needed to do this and ensure accuracy. It's an impressive piece of craftsmanship on display.

 

[dickm]

Thanks for helpful comments, guys. Have not yet had time to get out Salaman to see what he says, but would definitely like to know where I might find a bit more on its history. Alf?????

The bolts holding the fence to the arms are, fortunately, threaded 1/4" Whitworth, so making and tapping the captive nuts for the arm side was easy. The bolts have countersunk heads which are set into brass cups in the fence part, one of which was missing and this is the tricky bit because the "wings" are not exactly symmetrical . First attempt was OK-ish, and certainly showed how NOT to do it. Second attempt is WIP, but looks like it will still need to be 3rd time lucky. Will post some pics tomorow - of the failures if necessary, in hopes of helpful suggestions.
Will try more linseed oil on the body. I did succumb to temptation and made a start on sharpening the iron and trying it out. Big problem with chatter, which suggests that the boxwood needs to be tapped a smidgin further forward.

 

[AndyT]

More on how to do the elaborate dovetailed boxing.
This link leads to a reproduction of an article by WJ Armour, who was a commercial plane maker, from the magazine "Work" in 1898. He describes the method and illustrates the special planes needed.

It's well worth a look.

(Incidentally, the whole of "Work" is being re-issued on-line, 123 years after its first publication. More info here.)

 

[bugbear]

(Incidentally, the whole of "Work" is being re-issued on-line, 123 years after its first publication. More info here.)

I wish I'd known that was coming - I've spent "some money" on originals!

BugBear

 

[Digit]

Blimey! You must be older than me!

Roy.

 

[richarnold]

Hi, mouldy plane is back with a new name. something has gone wrong with my old user name, so i have set a new one up. Just wanted to let you know that all the boxwood inserts that i have ever examined that have come apart, show evidence of having been fixed in with animal glue. this often fails when the plane has been left in damp conditions. Regards, richarnold (ex mouldyplane)

 

[dickm]

That's a fantastic reference, Andy T. Wonder how many folk there were at any one time who could work those mitres to the necessary degree of precision?
I notice there is mention of glue in the ref, too, so confirming mouldy/richarnold's comment. Will need to have another look; not sure about tapping the sole out too far to insert glue, but it would certainly make sense to do this.
(Been wasting time today at what is called up here a "displenish" sale, that was supposed to include joinery materials and equipment. But you'd need to count 10 sheets of 1/2" shuttering ply and one hard point saw as "joinery", for them not to fall foul of the Trade Descriptions Act So no work on the Mathieson today)