Marples Mitre Jig

[Gower]

I've recently been given a Marples Ridgway MR 6807 mitre jig as per photo. Does anyone know what saw should be used with this jig? The kerf is .05mm and the blade needs to be 70mm deep.

My thanks to Argee for the advise he gave to Waka on posting photos to the forum. This is my first effort. Not bad after 4 years membership!
Cheers,
Gower

 

[joesoap]

Hi Gower
What about one of those Japenese pullsaws ? Theyr'e not 75 mm deep but being backless would that matter . I would think the fine set pattern should do . I'm sure you have considered this , if so you'll surely let me know . Cheers .

 

[Gower]

Thanks joesoap,
I've tried that and was surprised that even that thin Kerf was too wide for the slot. The blade on my conventional mitre cutter fits the slot but is not deep enough.
Cheers,
Jim

 

[neilyweely]

i have the same problem. the blade needs to be very thin indeed.

i wondered about widening the gap?

what do you think?

or use as a clamp!!!

neil

 

[joiner_sim]

Could it be a metal working jig for a hacksaw?

If you are using it for wood, I would suggest lining the bottom of the jig with a thin timber or plywood.

 

[TheTiddles]

I borrowed my dad's one, and broke it trying to get a blade in, they're rubbish unless you want 4 of them as clamps

Aidan

 

[bugbear]

I've recently been given a Marples Ridgway MR 6807 mitre jig as per photo. Does anyone know what saw should be used with this jig? The kerf is .05mm and the blade needs to be 70mm deep.

My thanks to Argee for the advise he gave to Waka on posting photos to the forum. This is my first effort. Not bad after 4 years membership!
Cheers,
Gower

I wouldn't use it for cutting, just for clamping.

For cutting use either a frame style mitre saw (Nobex style), or a rough mitre block followed by shooting.

BugBear

 

[Handworkfan]

[
I wouldn't use it for cutting, just for clamping.

For cutting use either a frame style mitre saw (Nobex style), or a rough mitre block followed by shooting.

BugBear

I'd use the latter - by shooting, not only can the mitre angle be made really precise but the surface comes up nicely for gluing and leaves a beautifully fine mitre line.
One of the best things I ever did was make myself a shooting board - it almost lives on the bench now! with a basic 90 degree fence, angled pieces of timber can be cut for whatever work is in hand, be it a square frame, a six- or eight-sided box, or whatever. I use mine for mitred box corners, 90 deg ends for dovetailing, and for planing long gran edges on thin stock.
BTW, for finding precise angles, Veritas do a couple of really good tools to help set either sliding bevels or machine tables.

 

[j]

Wow, thought that rung a bell.


Sorry, can't help with how to use it, mine has been in the box since that day in April last year

(Honest guv, I meant to use it)

J

 

[bugbear]

Wow, thought that rung a bell.


Sorry, can't help with how to use it, mine has been in the box since that day in April last year

(Honest guv, I meant to use it)

J

Ooh! Green Shamrock Brand Marples! That's real Marples, that is.

BugBear

 

[phantom of the offcut]

I have one of those under my bench somewhere, havent used it for years but as i remember i used a cheap throwaway tenon saw, i'll have a look tomorrow.

 

[Roggin]

This thread is pretty ancient. Perhaps the problem has been solved or the offending item binned but I picked up a 6808 and a 6809 Marples Mitre jigs at the flea market today for a few bob. (The original thread was for a 6807 which I think is a later Marples Ridgeway version - the Marples 1959 catalogue lists 6806 as a jig and 6807 as the saw - Google if you want to find it. Unbelievable range of tools.)
Anyway, Googled the numbers and found this thread. Bit alarmed that I had bought something useless but after a bit of a clean they are OK. All the kerf gaps on my jigs measures 0.8mm after cleaning out the rust with a folded piece of 120 wet and dry. The steel of my three tenon saws measures 0.75mm. The fit is perfect. (Obviously you can't put the teeth through the kerf, just thread the blade through.) And the 6808/9 comes with depth stops which stop the back of the tenon saw going down too far - useful back-up to fitting a slip of wood in the base.
This doesn't actually answer the question about the kerf on the offending 6807 but perhaps folks need not be too put off.
Must find something to use them for now.

 

[AndyT]

I demonstrated one use for a 6808 here.

post1168814.html#p1168814

 

[Bobtemp Smith]

Recognising that this is an old thread, but someone might find it. The best saw for this mitre is a floorboard saw. Though it has a curved cutting edge at the end you can ignore that, it's basically like a tenon saw without the back, permitting a full depth cut. Probably most makes will fit, but Wickes own brand of floorboard saw (as of 2021) will fit the slot perfectly. I've gone through 4 saws over 13 years (and thousands of cuts) with this mitre.

 

[MilesEd]

I have one of these lovely Marples jigs and spent years trying to find the perfect saw for it. Last week i did. An Irwin 3055 ultra fine tenon saw works perfectly. B&Q sell them. Job done.