Making T and G flooring on a kombi spindle moulder

[wobblydoggy]

Anyone done this or on a spindle moulder at all?

I have yet to use my kombi moulder, but have 36 Metres to make up so thought it worth setting it up.

Any advice from kombi owners out there gratefully received

 

[Myfordman]

Not sure exactly what a "kombi" is but making T&G is easy on a spindle either with the proper euro cutters in a cutter block or if you don't have them, then a 6mm/1/4" slot cutter can be pressed into service with multiple passes to cut both male and female profiles.

use the guards and feather boards to not only secure the work and protect yourself but also to deal with any twisted boards.

Check your set up so the slot is exactly central so that you can use each board either way up!

MM

 

[wobblydoggy]

Not sure exactly what a "kombi" is but making T&G is easy on a spindle either with the proper euro cutters in a cutter block or if you don't have them, then a 6mm/1/4" slot cutter can be pressed into service with multiple passes to cut both male and female profiles.

use the guards and feather boards to not only secure the work and protect yourself but also to deal with any twisted boards.

Check your set up so the slot is exactly central so that you can use each board either way up!

MM

Euro cutters?

I have loads of different cutters that came with the kombi, but do not know what they are called

I have one that has a rebate and one that has a tooth to fit the rebate I had assumed, probably dumbly that they were a set and I would have to do all the females then all the males?

 

[Myfordman]

Sounds like you have what you need. So what is/was the problem?

euro cutters and euro blocks (google them) are the standard way of mounting profile cutters on a spindle moulder.
There are about a hundred standard profiles and you can have custom ones made.

 

[custard]

I too am unsure what a kombi is, but I'm guessing it's a fairly small spindle moulder. So is it fair to assume you don't have a power feed and the table is fairly small?

If so you're really going to have to put a lot of care into ensuring the workpiece is firmly held dead flat against the table at the point when it meets the cutter. If the cut wanders up and down the thickness of the board by a few mill (which I guarantee it will if left to its own devices) then you'll be spending a long time with a belt sander getting the floorboards to lay flat after they've been fitted and for evermore they'll squeak to raise the dead!

 

[wobblydoggy]

A Kombi is a variant of the HMC260 Scheppach Planner thicknesser.

It is a combination tool and one of the attachments is a spindle moulder.

http://www.kappertmachines.nl/images/ar ... i-20-1.jpg

 

[custard]

Okay, I'm sure it's beefy enough to make the cut itself, after all T&G isn't hogging off loads of wood, but it's all about getting the cuts precisely and consistently positioned on the board edges which isn't quite as simple as it first appears. You'll have to make up feather boards and play around with them until they're holding the workpiece firmly but still allow you to push the timber through. If you've a load of blank boards it's easy enough to try a couple, if you're not happy with the results you can always rip or plane off the T&G and try a different set up.

 

[Shrubby]

If you're new to machines like this have a look at the HSE Spindle Moulder page
It has helpful videos and pictures explaining shaw guarding and false fences - helps get consistent clean cuts and stops you feeding digits into the cutterblock
Matt

 

[wobblydoggy]

If you're new to machines like this have a look at the HSE Spindle Moulder page
It has helpful videos and pictures explaining shaw guarding and false fences - helps get consistent clean cuts and stops you feeding digits into the cutterblock
Matt

Thanks Matt

I have just watched it.

I like my pinkies where they are and my sons too who want to learn.

The scheppach comes with base wheel guides to keep the work down and I will look into how to keep the work tight to the blade.


Thanks Custard, I was thinking of trying a few first.

I have a lot to make over the whole project I have 250+ of wooden Floors + a fair amount of tiled.

 

[blackrodd]

I've made a few feet of this stuff.
when it was made the t&g was put through the machine finish face upwards.
You will need to check which way, if any, the board will "cup" or move to decide on the face side.
The solid profile cutters we used, machined the bottom edges of the T&G about 10 thou narrower, to ensure that the face edges butted up snugly and tight. check the cutters you will use making sure they are square to the spindle bed.
You may think about a couple of swipes with a nice sharp block plane, on the bottom edge!
The tongue and grooves were not central but thicker on the face side to allow re finishing, It may be a good idea to check on this should you be attempting a "match"
Central T&G,is a good idea, IMH as it will make life very much easier when trying do decide on a face edge.
HTH Regards Rodders