Chippygeoff
Established Member
Having done the article on craft fairs got me going. I have now done another on how to make a name sign. I hope some of you find it helpful.
MAKING A NAME SIGN
As I mentioned in my article on craft fairs name signs are my best sellers and I thought it may benefit members if I explained how I go about making them, especially for the beginners on the forum.
All may name signs are made from a variety of hardwoods ¾ inch thick. I have a selection of name signs in three different designs on display at the craft fairs and it is from these that my customers order from. The first stage of the operation is to design the name on the computer and for this I use word art in Microsoft word. I tend to file all the names I make in case I get a repeat, as I often do.
When I am happy with the name I print it off and nine times out of ten I will do a batch each week for I can come away from a craft fair with many orders so I spend the following evening on the computer.
Its then off to the workshop where I cut round all the names and lay them out. I then select the wood that each customer wants, normally European oak. A lot of my wood comes in at the right width so this minimises wastage. Using my cross cut saw I cut each blank to the right size and then place the name on the blank and carry on until I have done them all. Although my wood in already planed I sand each blank to remove any planer marks and I use a Bosch 5inch random orbit sander for this, its just brilliant with a 150 grit disc.
I will say at this stage that all the materials I use for the next stages of the operation I get from Wilkinson’s and their own brand as well, their stuff is just brilliant and a fraction of the cost in B and Q. The following stages are the way I do things, through experience I have tried other ways but find the following the best way. I next cover the blank with 2inch wide masking tape and then I apply stick glue to the back of the pattern. I place this in position on top of the masking tape and smooth it down using an old credit card. The next stage is to cover the blank with 2inch wide clear packing tape and I have a tape dispenser that is used in packaging for this as it makes the job so much easier then and they are only a few quid to buy.
Covering the blank with clear packing tape does several things. It reduces the friction of the blade against the wood and makes the cutting a bit faster. Without the packaging tape the cutting would be very slow, it would dull the blade a lot quicker and it would also cause the wood to burn in places and it would be very time consuming to put things right afterwards.
Once all the blanks have been done as described I take them to the drill press and drill all the entry holes. When I have done the last blank I again take up my Bosch sander and sand the backs off, this gets rid of any bits of chipped wood that would otherwise cause the blank to jump about when it is on the scroll saw table.
The blanks are now ready for the scroll saw and what I do is to cut all of the outside first, the main reason I do this is because it greatly reduces the amount of wood that is on the table and if the wood is not quite flat, as often happens, it can cause chatter. I use a number 7 Flying Dutchman ultra reverse for this stage and you can easily cut a very straight line with this without the need to use a belt sander afterwards. Once all the outside work is done I then revert to a number 5 blade and do all the internal cuts.
When all of this is done I remove the pattern and the masking tape from the wood in one operation, sometimes I need a bradawl to lift it to get it started and then it comes off very quickly. There will be a few fuzzies on the underside and I either use the random orbit sander or my belt/disc sander depending if the name sign is a bit on the delicate side. I also give the front a light sanding to remove any residue from the masking tape if any.
I then take the name signs to my router table and put a slight round on them, it adds the finishing touch, which is pleasing to the eye and something my customers comment on, so much better than square edged wood. I then hand sand where the router has been but this is only where the bit has gone across the grain and it’s only a very light sanding that is needed. To all intents and purposes the name signs are now complete apart from the finishing.
With anything we make the finishing can make or break an item. The following techniques are what I use on 90 per cent of the things I make. I have used most finishes over the years and have settled for this one. It is pleasing to the eye and gives everything a professional look.
I have a large Tupperware type box and everything I make will fit inside it. I half fill it with teak oil and dip everything in it. On the table I have about 5 layers of newspaper and a row of those bamboo barbecue skewer sticks. After each item is dipped I hang over the tray to drain for a few seconds and then place it on the sticks. After about 15 minutes, and this is important, I wipe the excess oil from the underside of each item and then place it on fresh newspaper on the other table. I leave them overnight to dry. The next day they are ready for polishing. I polish all of the outside edge and the face. The polish is left to dry for 10-15 minutes depending on temperature and then buffed on the drill press using a drill brush, as I polish each item I use the drill brush on the back of each item as well and still get a nice sheen although there is no polish on the back, it’s the polish on the drill brush that gives it the sheen. The name sign is complete in every way now but I leave them out on the table for the polish to harden, again overnight, before I pack them ready to take to the craft fair.
The method I have described for name signs would apply to most of the things I make, plaques, key racks, candle holders etc etc. As I said at the beginning, it’s the way I do things, others may do things differently to me but on a commercial basis I have found the methods I use to be the best for my purposes.
Happy scrolling everyone.
MAKING A NAME SIGN
As I mentioned in my article on craft fairs name signs are my best sellers and I thought it may benefit members if I explained how I go about making them, especially for the beginners on the forum.
All may name signs are made from a variety of hardwoods ¾ inch thick. I have a selection of name signs in three different designs on display at the craft fairs and it is from these that my customers order from. The first stage of the operation is to design the name on the computer and for this I use word art in Microsoft word. I tend to file all the names I make in case I get a repeat, as I often do.
When I am happy with the name I print it off and nine times out of ten I will do a batch each week for I can come away from a craft fair with many orders so I spend the following evening on the computer.
Its then off to the workshop where I cut round all the names and lay them out. I then select the wood that each customer wants, normally European oak. A lot of my wood comes in at the right width so this minimises wastage. Using my cross cut saw I cut each blank to the right size and then place the name on the blank and carry on until I have done them all. Although my wood in already planed I sand each blank to remove any planer marks and I use a Bosch 5inch random orbit sander for this, its just brilliant with a 150 grit disc.
I will say at this stage that all the materials I use for the next stages of the operation I get from Wilkinson’s and their own brand as well, their stuff is just brilliant and a fraction of the cost in B and Q. The following stages are the way I do things, through experience I have tried other ways but find the following the best way. I next cover the blank with 2inch wide masking tape and then I apply stick glue to the back of the pattern. I place this in position on top of the masking tape and smooth it down using an old credit card. The next stage is to cover the blank with 2inch wide clear packing tape and I have a tape dispenser that is used in packaging for this as it makes the job so much easier then and they are only a few quid to buy.
Covering the blank with clear packing tape does several things. It reduces the friction of the blade against the wood and makes the cutting a bit faster. Without the packaging tape the cutting would be very slow, it would dull the blade a lot quicker and it would also cause the wood to burn in places and it would be very time consuming to put things right afterwards.
Once all the blanks have been done as described I take them to the drill press and drill all the entry holes. When I have done the last blank I again take up my Bosch sander and sand the backs off, this gets rid of any bits of chipped wood that would otherwise cause the blank to jump about when it is on the scroll saw table.
The blanks are now ready for the scroll saw and what I do is to cut all of the outside first, the main reason I do this is because it greatly reduces the amount of wood that is on the table and if the wood is not quite flat, as often happens, it can cause chatter. I use a number 7 Flying Dutchman ultra reverse for this stage and you can easily cut a very straight line with this without the need to use a belt sander afterwards. Once all the outside work is done I then revert to a number 5 blade and do all the internal cuts.
When all of this is done I remove the pattern and the masking tape from the wood in one operation, sometimes I need a bradawl to lift it to get it started and then it comes off very quickly. There will be a few fuzzies on the underside and I either use the random orbit sander or my belt/disc sander depending if the name sign is a bit on the delicate side. I also give the front a light sanding to remove any residue from the masking tape if any.
I then take the name signs to my router table and put a slight round on them, it adds the finishing touch, which is pleasing to the eye and something my customers comment on, so much better than square edged wood. I then hand sand where the router has been but this is only where the bit has gone across the grain and it’s only a very light sanding that is needed. To all intents and purposes the name signs are now complete apart from the finishing.
With anything we make the finishing can make or break an item. The following techniques are what I use on 90 per cent of the things I make. I have used most finishes over the years and have settled for this one. It is pleasing to the eye and gives everything a professional look.
I have a large Tupperware type box and everything I make will fit inside it. I half fill it with teak oil and dip everything in it. On the table I have about 5 layers of newspaper and a row of those bamboo barbecue skewer sticks. After each item is dipped I hang over the tray to drain for a few seconds and then place it on the sticks. After about 15 minutes, and this is important, I wipe the excess oil from the underside of each item and then place it on fresh newspaper on the other table. I leave them overnight to dry. The next day they are ready for polishing. I polish all of the outside edge and the face. The polish is left to dry for 10-15 minutes depending on temperature and then buffed on the drill press using a drill brush, as I polish each item I use the drill brush on the back of each item as well and still get a nice sheen although there is no polish on the back, it’s the polish on the drill brush that gives it the sheen. The name sign is complete in every way now but I leave them out on the table for the polish to harden, again overnight, before I pack them ready to take to the craft fair.
The method I have described for name signs would apply to most of the things I make, plaques, key racks, candle holders etc etc. As I said at the beginning, it’s the way I do things, others may do things differently to me but on a commercial basis I have found the methods I use to be the best for my purposes.
Happy scrolling everyone.
