Making a finial

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

Nelly111s

Established Member
Joined
1 Jul 2017
Messages
283
Reaction score
181
Location
Preston, Lancs
I'm making a finial which is about 1500mm long in total, out of iroko. The top part of it is a "spike" which is hexagonal. See pictures of original, CAD render of new one, measurements of new one (110mm a/f, 560mm long).
I'm after some "best practice" for making this. I can think of three ways
  1. Mount the blank in the lathe and use a router over the workpiece with a tapered jig to route the flats. I can use the lathe indexer to turn and repeat 8 times.
  2. Mark the blank, bandsaw off a piece, tape the waste back on again and repeat 8 times. Then hand plane to finish.
  3. Make an mdf jig for the thicknesser so that the top face is parallel to the bed.
I'm sure there's more ways, too!

Has anyone done this, if so, how?
IMG_1797.JPG


Finial_Measurements_2022-Jan-24_10-43-58PM-000_CustomizedView5472603943_jpg.jpg


Finial Measurements Drawing v3.jpg
 

Tris

What am I doing here?
Joined
28 Nov 2018
Messages
559
Reaction score
369
Location
Moreton in marsh
I seem to recall an article in the wood turning magazine some years ago, could have been Richard Findlay, making one of these. The blank was turned down close to size then routed as you describe. Probably the quickest method to my mind
 

MARK.B.

Established Member
Joined
4 Jul 2012
Messages
1,908
Reaction score
788
Location
East Yorkshire
Could you maybe ( could be a crazy idea :po_O) but could you turn your blank longer than needed ,leaving a good chunk nice and square at both ends, then run it through a tapering jig on your Table saw before cutting to finished length :unsure::unsure::)
Edit

No need for the lathe at all Duh :whistle::whistle::whistle: see i told you i woz crazy :p
 
Last edited:

Richard_C

Established Member
Joined
17 Oct 2019
Messages
913
Reaction score
579
Location
Cambridge
How about making it as a regular non tapered hexagon on the Bandsaw, about 20mm longer than you need. Then cut the tapers but stop/ back up when you get to the waste end, that way the waste fingers stay in place. I think you would start the cuts at the fat end but it's too late at night to think very hard. Then cut the waste end off.
 

Doug B

Shy Tot
Joined
6 Aug 2008
Messages
4,680
Reaction score
4,366
Location
@dougsworkshop
I’d mark the required size hexagons on the ends of the blank, turn it to a cone shape to the size of the outer points of the hexagons then hand plane the flats using the hexagons as a guide.
 

niall Y

Established Member
Joined
1 Nov 2018
Messages
113
Reaction score
105
Location
CARDIGAN
I used to produce octagonal tapered legs for a series of chairs that I made. This was before I had a lathe. I used a pair of cradles that I passed through my planer/thicknesser. The first was to taper the square stock - until I had a long gently tapering square. I removed the full taper from two sides only, which changes the geometry at the ends of the stock. this means that you have to use slightly longer stock, and re cut the ends to their correct angle The second had a tapered V-block fastened to it, to hold the stock sharp-corner-up to plane down to the sloping octagon - Though this is probably a bit of a faff for a one-off.
I was recently working on an Arts and Crafts lamp with an octagonal taper, for this I used a jig to taper the square. I then glued thin paper to each of the faces, before working out and drawing the lines for the octagon. This has the added advantage, in that things are a lot easier to see, especially if the wood is dark or the grain is busy. This last part I planed by hand - so that I could work accurately to the drawn lines
Niall

I'm making a finial which is about 1500mm long in total, out of iroko. The top part of it is a "spike" which is hexagonal. See pictures of original, CAD render of new one, measurements of new one (110mm a/f, 560mm long).
I'm after some "best practice" for making this. I can think of three ways
  1. Mount the blank in the lathe and use a router over the workpiece with a tapered jig to route the flats. I can use the lathe indexer to turn and repeat 8 times.
  2. Mark the blank, bandsaw off a piece, tape the waste back on again and repeat 8 times. Then hand plane to finish.
  3. Make an mdf jig for the thicknesser so that the top face is parallel to the bed.
I'm sure there's more ways, too!

Has anyone done this, if so, how?
View attachment 127848

View attachment 127849

View attachment 127850
 

Latest posts

Top