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Making a casement window (single glazed)

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AJB Temple

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Outstandingly helpful thread. Thanks Coley. I don't have a spindle moulder but can see how to adapt my kit to do this. Very helpful tips.
 

ColeyS1

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Mutley Racers":cgqc9w5i said:
Wow, what an amazing thread. Thank you so much h for posting this guide to building windows. I love wood and have wanted to try and make some nice windows to replace my plastic fantastic ones. But what you did was so precise and beautiful I believe I will not even attempt it.
Only just noticed this, thanks for the compliment. Don't be put off by it. Yes there are alot of steps, but that's all they are. Treat each step as it's own little job and before you know it, you'll have a window.
Coley

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ColeyS1

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AJB Temple":2abxe3o5 said:
Outstandingly helpful thread. Thanks Coley. I don't have a spindle moulder but can see how to adapt my kit to do this. Very helpful tips.
Glad you found it useful ;) Good to hear that even though you haven't got the exact same kit, you've got other options that will enable you to end up with the same.
Cheers
Coley

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coupster

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just read this so thanks for posting it up, a very useful informative thread. Nice of you to take the time to do so, as well.
 

Aidex

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Hi Coley

What an amazing and informative post! Thanks so much for sharing it all with us!!!

Without wanting to insult you or any other craftsman, I’ve heard mention of some folk using the Domino to make doors, windows and gates rather than M&T joints. Clearly there’s a lot less skill involved with the Domino. In practical terms though is using a Domino OK or would you regard it a big no no/botch that could or will lead to premature failure if the sash and frame? (Please no one shoot me down I won’t be making a window anytime soon and certainly nothing that would look anything like Coleys!) :?

Many thanks again for kindly sharing your expertise!

Aidex
 

thetyreman

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what a great thread! very useful information, did you use meranti for the wood?
 

ColeyS1

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Thanks for the feedback guys.
Aidex personally I wouldn't make a window or a door without having a back up plan if the glue were to fail. On the frames the screws are the backup, on the casement the wedges provide additional strength.
With modern glues it'd probably be ok, but with a little extra effort you could use joints that gave stood the test of time.


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ColeyS1

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thetyreman":360h4z7k said:
what a great thread! very useful information, did you use meranti for the wood?
Thanks. I think the wood was sapele [WINKING FACE]

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Chunky Monkey

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Hi Coley,

Sorry for dragging this up again, I read this thread at the time you published it and bookmarked it as being useful. I'm now at the stage where I'm about to start making my windows (a winter project tucked way in my workshop :) )

I have a couple of questions:
1) On the fixed sashes, what's your preferred method of fixing the sash to the frame, glue and screwed?
2) When measuring up for the frame how much tolerance would you normally allow for to fit the aperature? Mine are going into a timber frame, would 3mm all round be too much / too little.

Thanks
Jon
 

ColeyS1

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Hi Jon. I like to bed the sashes in the frame rebate with silicone then use an additional fixing just to be sure. Usually it's screwed as well in the glass rebate, so the putty covers the screw over. I've also used nails before (smaller hole to fill if you can't fix in the glazing rebate) which ever you choose will be fine.
Measuring how much smaller to make the frame isn't a straightforward answer. If you're replacing something that's already there then I'd work from that. I find a small cold chisel to the outside plaster is enough for you to measure the overall existing frame size accurately. Brick work outside is easier, just scratch away a little silicone so you can find the overall frame size.
If you're fitting into a new opening a lot will depend on the quality of the masonry/brickwork and how it's gonna be finished. If it's gonna be plastered in you could make it 10-15mm slack and wedge in place without any issue. If it's brickwork you'll wanna make it much more snug. Silicone will cover a 4mm gap without looking too ugly -it's whether the brickwork is nice and straight will decide if the frame needs scribing/fitting into the opening or whether it'll just slot straight in.


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Horsee1

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Great write up, I like your jig for setting your 13mm depth cut on spindle.

Interesting to see you mark everything out and chop mortises/tennons after rebating rather than when the stock is still square.
 

ColeyS1

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Horsee1":2xynww98 said:
Great write up, I like your jig for setting your 13mm depth cut on spindle.

Interesting to see you mark everything out and chop mortises/tennons after rebating rather than when the stock is still square.
Glad you found it interesting. The jig idea came many years ago from trends similar offering for router table setup. Only have to make one once but it does make setting up so much quicker/easier.

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ColeyS1

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imrance69":3sih310i said:
Great Write up
Thanks pal, welcome to the forum.

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timstevens

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Hi Very helpful indeed. Unfortunately I cant open the link from Katellwood as it might have the answer . If the windows were designed to except double glazing units would there be much difference.
 

timstevens

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Im making similar size windows and want to leave the rebate big enough for double glazing although for the moment single glazing willl do in them. If i cut the stock a bit bigger say 4inch frames and 2 and a quater sashes is it ok to leave the rebate bigger or will that effect the M and T
Your post is very helpful and in fact given me great confidence to start this at all .
 
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