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Ttrees

Iroko loco!
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Hello folks
Thought I'd post some piccys of another tablesaw I acquired recently...
I thought there might have been some pulleys in this thing, which I could have borrowed for the Startrite TA 275 I'm doing up at the minute...
So I took the top off and started cleaning (hammer)
It's quite a strange yolk ..I didn't realise it has a left and right tilt ...
Its was all seized up and needs work ....I wondered at first why isn't every saw made like this ...
It's only when I started dismantling it, I realised why there not ....
Such a pig of a job to dismantle this heavy beast ! ..
The arbor nut is also a left hand thread ...
I had to go and double check the Startrite arbor to confirm this.
Looks like I can use en emergency stop function with this saw ....
I was planning to use 1 VFD for these two saws I have, but they have not made a inverter yet that does this
for 3HP motors ...(only 2HP at the moment for sale)
Even though this is only 2HP I decided not to program down my Startrite machine to 2HP to do this function...
Besides, since the Startrite is right hand thread arbor nut, Decelerating brake would loosen it off the arbor.
Maybe you can program these new VFD's to have different decelerating times though ?...

I am just concerned to get the Startrite machine up and running at the minute ...but since this one's apart it might
as well get some work done on it too.
Maybe by the time this is all over, they will be selling 3HP VFD's with these options I want :lol:

So on to the work ...
As you can see theirs two teeth missing from the rack that will need to be welded .
The plastic handwheel needs a fix done to it ...Might try making one some way or another....
Change bearings out in the motor ...
Sand prime and paint the machine ...
Make riving knife ..
Make up missing rail for sliding table ...
I see some other things that will only be apparent when the time comes round .
I can't get any info on this saw apart from one picture of this machine re-badged Funken
Looked everywhere with no luck

Might do some of these things now, like possibly swapping out the bearings ...
I might get away with just greasing the bearings in the Startrite machine though ...
It has rubber seals ...never done this procedure before though .
Might just make a little shelf inside the machine and pack components up for the time being ...
I allready have two machines disassembled in the workshop ...and doing a complete job on the Startrite
at the moment ...I feel I will do a better job on it when it's time comes round .
Just thought you folks would like a another tablesaw thread for the fun of it ...

Disclaimer: No butterfly's were harmed during the daring escape from the rack and pinion mechanism :D ...
Can't say what happened to ole Pisshkins though ... :(
 

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Ttrees

Iroko loco!
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Got those teeth for the tilting arbor welded up, melted one trying, but got it done eventually :oops:
Took grinding some half round files down to do the job.
I lost the photo of that, so I might as well document the rest of this process, instead of losing them like the rest of my pictures...

The box section on the bottom of the base was rusted through, needing cutting out and welding.
Some angle iron would do the trick
12.JPG

sawbase.JPG


Onto cleaning out those pits getting ready for painting
Cup wheel 2.JPG


Primed, and tried out some paint which wasn't as green as the lid, so splashed out on some Claas Dominator green machinery paint instead.
SAM_2456.JPG

Claas paint.JPG




Thought I'd not have much bother with the assembly of this prototype tablesaw,
but it looks like I will have to work some "magic" to get this thing right.
5.JPG

1.JPG

8.JPG

4.JPG


You might be able to spot two things wrong with this...
The mounting of the motor is not square, so I was right with my suspicions, why this riving knife riser block is a bit tapered, if you want to call that rough as f### block tapered.
I've tried shimming the whole mounting assembly from the cabinet, but it still aint square, and more than likely will cause other alignment issues with the rack and pinion.

And after much bother assembling the motor to get clearance for it, not to be hitting the cabinet ,
it still does, and I can't make that fan shroud any closer to the motor as the fan is fouling the shroud.
I have nothing to lose at this stage, by taking all apart again, once again, and working on making the motor fit closer to the riving knife/motor mount.
So hopefully from this adventure, I can achieve....
A... Getting the motor not to foul against the side of the cabinet.
B... Making the motor shroud sit further away from the fan.
C... Being able to have some adjustability for squareness on the motor mount/riving knife casting.

This will involve filing the holes on the end bell of the motor,
You might be able to see some deflection of the threadbar because of misalignment or whatever during manufacturing.
And either working the inside of the riving knife casting or the outside of the motor to get it to slot into the casting.
I will replace the nuts with locking ones to be able to make the motor adjust for square.

I just hope the blade will be parallel to the table slots when I deadlift the big table back on, and that it wasn't half buttocks mounted, after the whole kit and caboodle was literally thrown together.
It might be a clue why there are two sets of holes in the cabinet for bolting the table on.
We shall see
This machine is definitely the case of too many cooks, who can't understand each other, on a Friday evening, with the goal of....
JUST MAKE IT LOOK LIKE IT WORKS

Thanks for reading, wish me luck

Tom
Disgruntled magician technician :p
 

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Ttrees

Iroko loco!
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I forgot to mention I was a bit of a numpty thinking the saw was right and left tilt :oops:
This machine is right tilting only, and towards the fence...
At least it might compliment the left tilting Startrite DS275 I have.
Have to be optimistic at this stage, before the drudgery of disassembly.

Yet to find out what the missing cut off part is....

Tis the beauty of the mystery machine :)

Tom
 

Ttrees

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Back again
Filing end bell holes.JPG

Got the motor sitting tighter to the mounting casting, without much effort,
I was making a bigger deal of it than it was.
motor closer.JPG

Looking closer at these old photos, I can see it wasn't the same as the way I had assembled it.
I just made it sit even snugger into the casting, because I wanted more space for the fan shroud, as the fan was originally rubbing against it.
I had to scrape off my paint job, and file a wee bit of the raised casting that surrounds the grease nipple.
I couldn't persuade the stainless threadbar, which I had changed out from the old bent threadbar to conform to the misalignment, so I filed the holes in the end bell of the motor a bit.
Now I have plenty of space and thankfully the motor seems square to the table
space for motor now.JPG


changing setscrew for pin.JPG

I done another wee job to the turnwheel for the tilting arbor, as the captured setscrew was slipping, so I drilled the shaft for it and tapped in a nail, I didn't drill through the turnwheel for fear of weakening the casting.
My welding job on the rack teeth makes it a bit stiff when the blade is at 90, and I thought I snapped a tooth or the worm , but to my relief, it was only the soft nail I had tapped in snapped...phew!
Replaced it with a steel nail and all is well thankfully.

needing a rail .JPG

I will probably make a rail for the sliding table soon enough, as I want to use my "fancy rolling table top" for various things...
It might someday get wired up to be an actual saw in use :D
The sliding table would be a pain to store upright or on the table, so why not get a bit more "real estate"

If anyone's wondering why I'm not mad keen on getting it up and running yet, it's because I already have a Startrite 275 which performs well.

I just couldn't watch this machine rust away in the corner as it was.
Originally, I had intended to use the motor for a Pentz Cyclone build, but it is a very specific type, and not a regular type motor retrofitted onto an old PTO type bog saw which I thought it was judging from the picture on the sellers add.
I was surprised to see an actual cabinet saw when I got up there.

Not a bad deal for 100 euros!
I hope Hugh will see this thread someday.

Thanks
Tom
 

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Ttrees

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Fabricated a rail up for the sliding table, since it was "in the way" :)
and thought I'd share what I learned.

Had no idea of the rail thickness, as the rollers on the sliding table have eccentric shafts, and one was
stuck, so I took a selection of different bits of pipe with me.
I'm glad I did, as most of them were put to good use.
1 Start.JPG

3 alignment.JPG


2 See if this will work.JPG

I didn't think these nuts needed to be tack welded on, so I just ground a profile on them.
This turned out to be an absolute pig of a job to disassemble, using a big flathead to jam into the now profiled nut.
On the other end of this pipe.... the long screwdriver wasn't long enough :oops:
4 Too small.JPG

The pipe wasn't wide enough for a tight fit between the fully cammed eccentric shaft rollers
Next size up it is then...
5 next size up.JPG

Had to cut the end off anyways to get the screwdriver in, as I only have the pair of these allen bolts.


6  Definately welding those nuts anymore.JPG

I thought to myself this is never happening again!
Now it will be easy going to bolt the rail into the table...

Wrong!

7 Threads were a bad idea.JPG

I found that the bolts were bottoming out on the nuts, and the rail was still hanging really loosely (hammer)
This probably caused small damage to both the allen bolts and threads in the table!
This extra faff wasn't going to be the cause of the table needing to be drilled out, and bolted from the other end.
For some reason, I had a silly idea the extra threading would only help things :roll:

Got the rail mounted and leveled up with ease now, just a wee bit of filing needed.
I thought I took piccys of the next part...
The rail wasn't exactly the same thickness as the original must have been, so work needed to be done on the sliding table.
After knocking out the stuck eccentric roller shaft, lowered it as much as I could, it was still sitting too high.
Scraped the paint off the scooped relief area from under the rollers, still too high.
Needed to deepen this shape with a file, as the rollers were bottoming out.
Rollers.JPG


Ended up filing the shaft holes at the same time to make them sit lower, the right side was off by a lot.
If it went, or goes wrong in future, I can always make bushings for these.

The table support arm was too low and badly seized up, and bashed me hand with one of those big blue Thor mallets,
A good few rounds of twenty didn't cut the mustard, so something else needed to be done...
8 hammer jig.JPG

This wee 50 euro Lidl welder, is great for loads of jobs :D
9 hammertime.JPG

Worked like a charm with only a few cracks of the big hammer,
The oil penetration might have helped a bit too.

This took less time to make, than the length of time I was hammering for. :roll:
 

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Ttrees

Iroko loco!
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Finally got the table flush with the saw top.
10 level and flush at last.JPG

Ready for use now with a larger table than before...
Soon to be a useful surface for projects.
11  Fiinished.JPG


Still am bamboozled by this mystery bolt...
It looks like it could be the manual version of a sawstop :p
12 inside.JPG

Guessing it might be for a dust shroud bracket?
13 Mystery bolt.JPG


Will probably leave making a mobile base until winter.
Might ponder over designing and welding one of those Biesemeyer fences in the meanwhile.
Thanks for reading, so far.

Tom
 

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