Machinery power draw

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Digizz

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Just designing the power supplies in my new workshop (as per other posts). I'm trying to work out the design power consumption on both startup and when running. I'm going to be getting the following kit:

Scheppach HMS260 T/P - 2.5KW (16A supply recommended)
Scheppach TS2000 Saw - 1.8KW (13A supply recommended)
Scheppach HA260 Extract - 1KW (13A supply recommended)

Does anyone know what the startup power draw is for this machinery?

Thanks.
 
SCHEPPACH!!!!!! :roll:

Sorry, Digizz, but if you're going to be an owner you'd better start practicing... :wink:

Cheers, Alf
 
I don't know what you're on about ;)

of course, I wouldn't dare touch the edit post function on this forum! :)
 
Digizz,

I measured the current draw on my Scheppach TS2500 - you might wish to look up the maximum rating - I can't remember it offhand.

Basically, it draws less than 13 amps at switch-on, and then settles to about 10 amps if I remember correctly. I "think" the recommended was 20 amps.

Don't ask about the measurement as A) It's not a particularly safe experiment to repeat and B) I'm an electronic engineer by trade so can't provide advice on dodgy current testing setups. You can buy non-invasive current meters you only have to put near the cable, and they give an accurate measurement - thety are supposed to be surprisingly accurate.

Adam
 
Don't know if this helps, but I ran my Scheppach HMS260 T/P off a regular 13amp supply no problems.

A
 
Thanks Aragorn,

That's the only one they recommended running off a 16A supply - must be pretty marginal then if you had no problems :)
 
Hey Digizz,

I can't run my HMS260 off a 13amp socket so it must be a very close run thing......The first time I switched it on the breakers kicked in and light up my DB like Las Vagas!! I've now install two rings into the workshop, one for 13amp with normal sockets and one 16amp with the industrial sockets. I think I prefer this method and find it safer, you always know if your pluging in a machine. Plus the fact all the Scheppach machines come with the industrial sockets built onto them.

SimonA
 
I have a 16A cicuit in my workshop and on very cold mornings my HMS260 will occasionally trip the 16A breaker.

Keith
 
Hi Digizz,

As I understand it (that is to say I'm certain, but I'm not a sparks :wink: ), the power draw will be less than the recommended supplies: eg the P/T will draw an absolute maximum of 16amps at start up (probaly 14/15), and then run at a lower amperage.

Steve
 
Hi Digizz

I wonder how your are going to fare at 16A if you factor in your starting sequences; i.e try to start the P/T whilst the D/E is running. I have a 40A feed to the shed with 32A ring and 6A light circuits. I also run all the Scheppach stuff you’ve got listed there and have ever had any starting problems especially with the D/E going and then say the P/T or the S/B starting up. However I have a table mounted Makita 3612c coupled to an APT WV1000 dust extractor. 8 times out of 10, if I start the router just after dust extractor, the MCB trips. Maybe its because I am using type B MCB’s, but I am only guessing. Must seek pro advise a discuss with a Sparky one of these days. Which is the point I am trying to make.
FWIW; I believe that best piece of advice I was given when setting up the shed was to run 10mm2 cable down there. A sparky mate at my last job did some calcs for me and came out saying 6mm was ok, but 10mm would be great if I could afford it. That was when I couldn’t see past a few hand tools. You never know what going in there. Last winter, I bought a 2nd hand storage heater for coppers. Works great. Save its 4kW and 20A!!!. Guess the fact that you outgrow the space is only one of the factors to take into account.

happy planning
 
Thanks Guys.

I'm going to go for a 45A MCB at the house CU and then 32A MCB for 13A socket ring main, 6A MCB for lighting and individual 16A MCB and radial wiring to 16A sockets. As the 16A sockets and MCB's are so cheap, I've decided to use them for all the big machinery - figure it can't hurt! :) All the 16A MCB's will be C Curve type (motor rated). I'll also run an RCD in the workshop with separate earthing from the house earthing.
 

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