Lubrication?

[Cozzer]

According to the manual, my Proxxon DSH/E is "basically maintenance free", but then states that to keep it clean, "use a soft cloth", etc.

Well, keeping it clean isn't really my concern....and methinks the word "basically" is ar5e-covering on Proxxon's part!

How about lubrication? Oil? Grease? Dry powder? Where?

On a slightly different tack, should I do something to the bed? It's aluminium in this case. I've noticed there's sometimes a slight resistance when sliding work towards the blade...

Your thoughts/solutions very welcome! Thank you!

 

[scrimper]

Your saw is one of the cheaper machines available in a huge range of guises - underneath the plastic covers it is the same basic machine as hundreds of others although I do have to say the Proxxon looks nicer than most other clones.

As regards your comment on the table I would strongly advise that you make and fit a supplementary wooden table to fit over your existing alloy table,this serves several purposes as listed below.
1) It protects your original table.
2) You can wax and polish the table allowing the work to move more freely.
3) On a cold day it will be warmer to work on a wood table rather than a metal one.
4) You can make the hole size for the blade smaller and give more support to the work on delicate cuts and finer blades.

If you want to see the table I made for my Hegner I explain it in my video listed below. The bit about the table starts at the 16 minutes point.

 

[Cozzer]

Thanks, Scrimper...great advice about the additional table. Will nick your idea...

I did conjure with getting a Hegner, but they look a bit "too meaty" for my marquetry needs, hence plumping for the variable speed Proxxon job. Far from cheap (compared to the sub £150 jobs), and space was (as ever!) at a premium, so the small footprint was a consideration.
Appears that Deltas (unobtainable over here?) and (original) Excaliburs are the saws of choice for the pro veneer boys, but frankly some of 'em are so adept, they could probably get good results using a chain saw!

 

[scrimper]

Thanks, Scrimper...great advice about the additional table. Will nick your idea...

I did conjure with getting a Hegner, but they look a bit "too meaty" for my marquetry needs, hence plumping for the variable speed Proxxon job. Far from cheap (compared to the sub £150 jobs), and space was (as ever!) at a premium, so the small footprint was a consideration.
Appears that Deltas (unobtainable over here?) and (original) Excaliburs are the saws of choice for the pro veneer boys, but frankly some of 'em are so adept, they could probably get good results using a chain saw!

I did a bit of Marquetry in my younger days (a very long time ago) but I only ever used a sharp craft knife (did not have a saw then - or any money!) I can't imagine how you cut out the small pieces of thin veneer with a scroll saw.

 

[Cozzer]

I did a bit of Marquetry in my younger days (a very long time ago) but I only ever used a sharp craft knife (did not have a saw then - or any money!) I can't imagine how you cut out the small pieces of thin veneer with a scroll saw.

You and me both as regards the craft knife - Brits seem to have adopted "the window method" in the main, but our American cousins favour the scroll/fret saw idea, cutting 2+ veneers simultaneously. The idea being that if you wander offline it doesn't matter because both/all veneers will still fit together, if you see what I mean...
Nothing ventured, etc., so I thought I'd give it a shot. Same as you, time is gradually running out, so why not?!
Apparently all it takes is skill, talent, steady hands, patience, good eyesight, and a few hundred hours of nothing better to do.
I have none of these qualities by some margin, but no doubt there's an Amazon book I can buy, or a video I can watch, that will grant me all these faculties overnight...

 

[Amplidyne]

I did a bit of Marquetry in my younger days (a very long time ago) but I only ever used a sharp craft knife (did not have a saw then - or any money!) I can't imagine how you cut out the small pieces of thin veneer with a scroll saw.

There was an article in "The Woodworker" back in the day, I think it was the one that had the free veneer pieces on the cover, which I still have somewhere I think!
Anyway the article was about some expert guys who used scroll saws to cut veneer for complicated marquetry which they sold as a business.
I've done a bit of veneering, but never any marquetry. I tried a bit of veneer with the scroll saw, but TBH, it was all over the place. Reasonably used to using the saw.
So it's a no from me.

 

[Cozzer]

There was an article in "The Woodworker" back in the day, I think it was the one that had the free veneer pieces on the cover, which I still have somewhere I think!
Anyway the article was about some expert guys who used scroll saws to cut veneer for complicated marquetry which they sold as a business.
I've done a bit of veneering, but never any marquetry. I tried a bit of veneer with the scroll saw, but TBH, it was all over the place. Reasonably used to using the saw.
So it's a no from me.

If you find some free time over the weekend, have a search for works by Silas Kopf and Paul Schurch. Both yanks, and both adept - very! - at using the scroll saw. What they achieve is amazing.
(Ironically, they're both on record admiring the skills of knife wielders!)


Ronnie Rozenga's another....

 

[Cozzer]

Another example of how it's done....



That's some Excalibur!

 

[pe2dave]

Another example of how it's done....


That's some Excalibur!

That guy has patience.

 

[Cozzer]

That guy has patience.

...but not big on conversation....

 

[Jaco]

The Hegner Polycut has a nipple on each arm for oiling.

The required oil is "K68 way type oil" which was a huge mission to source locally unless you bought 20L drum. Eventually found a supplier who gave me a sample bottle of 2L, will outlast mine and the machines lifetime

I use the same oil on the small Hegner arms.

@ Scrimper - like the table top, might look at one for the Polycut although the top is cast iron.

 

[Cozzer]

....make and fit a supplementary wooden table to fit over your existing alloy table,this serves several purposes as listed below.
1) It protects your original table.
2) You can wax and polish the table allowing the work to move more freely.
3) On a cold day it will be warmer to work on a wood table rather than a metal one.
4) You can make the hole size for the blade smaller and give more support to the work on delicate cuts and finer blades....

Right, Mr.Scrimper, supplementary table made and fitted as you suggested.
Any recommendations re the wax for the top, please?
I gather I should avoid anything silicon based....

 

[scrimper]

Right, Mr.Scrimper, supplementary table made and fitted as you suggested.
Any recommendations re the wax for the top, please?
I gather I should avoid anything silicon based....

Any sort of wax will do - you don't need to do it often either, I have a huge tin of industrial floor wax that was being thrown in a skip which I use for every thing inc metal machine tables etc. Another useful thing is a candle - rub it on the blade and it helps keeping it running nicely through the work - you can rub it on the table to if you wish.

 

[Jacob]

Right, Mr.Scrimper, supplementary table made and fitted as you suggested.
Any recommendations re the wax for the top, please?
I gather I should avoid anything silicon based....

Quick squiggle with a candle for machine tables. Also for sides of handsaws, plane soles etc. It's as though they've been magically resharpened in just three seconds!

 

[Cozzer]

Terrific, gentlemen!

Thanks for your advice!

 

[Jaco]

@ Scrimper - like the table top.

What wood did you use? Looks like 6mm MDF?

 

[scrimper]

@ Scrimper - like the table top.

What wood did you use? Looks like 6mm MDF?

Correct. I don't like MDF but the one good point about it is that as long as it does not get wet it stays pretty flat and smooth, also it was a bit scrounged from somewhere so cost me nothing but a little time.

 

[Jaco]

Thanks, I will have a look at what is in the store.
Agree with MDF as it stays flat, cuts clean and paints good, just beware of the dust.
I have 18mm in stock, a friend gave me 3/4 of sheet that he had leftover from a once off job. (I was cutting it down to a manageable size when I f-ked up the table saw drive pulley, still need to find a replacement)
I did contract work for company that made chip & mdf.
When you walked down the side of the press and they were running 3mm mdf, it sounded like the press belt would break (continuous press).

 

[Bungalowbill63]

Wax is not a good idea for scroll saw tables especially if you are painting or staining ,french chalk is a better alternative for a slippy table,no residue on your work

 

[scrimper]

Wax is not a good idea for scroll saw tables especially if you are painting or staining ,french chalk is a better alternative for a slippy table,no residue on your work

Never found it a problem. obviously if the table has 'unpolished in' wax on the table it will get on the work and as you say it would affect the painting or staining but as long as the polish is dried into the wood so to speak it is perfectly fine. But of course that is just my opinion we all have different ways of doing things and it's good to hear of other folks methods.