Loose tonge M&T

[Freetochat]

I am thinking of trying loose tonge M&T for a coffee table (Similar to the Trend Beadlock Joint). Is the joint as strong as a normal M&T joint? The joint will be in hardwood.

 

[stairman]

depends how tight the joint is and how good your glue is

 

[Chris Knight]

The joint is as strong as a normal M&T made to a comparable standard.

 

[Steve Maskery]

The joint is as strong as a normal M&T made to a comparable standard.

I agree, every bit.

One of the many advantages of loose tenon joinery is that you can get your shoulders to meet all round very easily - just make sure the rail has a square face. If you use a router to create your mortices, by referencing off the front face every time you don't have a problem ensuring that the the tenon isn't quite in the right place within the joint. There are lots of advantages. I've used loose tenons for years and never had a problem.

I'm making a bed at the moment and using "proper" M&T's - I'm having a job remembering how to do it!

Have you seen the new Festool Domino? It's a dedicated loose tenon machine, a bit hefty, but works superbly. I have a review of it in this month's GW. The only downside to it, as far as I can tell, is the fact that it is limited to a maximum tenon thickness of 10mm (so 1/2" is out for big doors, for example) and the plunge depth is limited - can't remember to what - but again, it means that big stuff is out. Oh yes, and the price!

But otherwise, for small and medium-sized work, and in a production environment, it's absolutely great.

Still, you can do a fine job with a little router and a jig or two, go for it!

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Steve

The only downside to it, as far as I can tell, is the fact that it is limited to a maximum tenon thickness of 10mm (so 1/2" is out for big doors, for example) and the plunge depth is limited - can't remember to what - but again, it means that big stuff is out.

You can always put multiple tenons in side by side.

Cheers
Neil

 

[ProShop]

I agree with Chris, I use them a lot. I've even made big doors in the past and still going strong.

 

[Freetochat]

I had been looking at the Leigh FMT, but finding it difficult justifying the £600 plus setup costs. Buying the Trend setup would be about £100 (Including kit and tongue cutter). Even cheaper would be designing a jig to do the job. My next task.

Thanks for the imput.

Regards

 

[ProShop]

I had been looking at the Leigh FMT, but finding it difficult justifying the £600 plus setup costs. Buying the Trend setup would be about £100 (Including kit and tongue cutter). Even cheaper would be designing a jig to do the job. My next task.

Thanks for the imput.

Regards

I make my own by hand & machine.

I have also used the beadlock system and it's very good imho.
No need for expensive jigs.

 

[Freetochat]

Have you seen the new Festool Domino? It's a dedicated loose tenon machine, a bit hefty, but works superbly. I have a review of it in this month's GW. The only downside to it, as far as I can tell, is the fact that it is limited to a maximum tenon thickness of 10mm (so 1/2" is out for big doors, for example) and the plunge depth is limited - can't remember to what - but again, it means that big stuff is out. Oh yes, and the price!

Thanks I'll look for the article when my copy of GW arrives. Hopefully Festool will have it on their display tomorrow at Wood 06. I saw the tongues for this machine is 20 to 25 mm, Hopefully that would be strong enough?