Loose Lateral Adjuster

[John15]

The lateral adjuster on my early fifties Record No.4 has become very loose. Can I tighten it by striking the pin with a punch or is there another way?

John

 

[MIGNAL]

I don't know of any other way. I have a No.4 and the lateral lever is so loose that it falls out! Actually the blade holds it in place, it's only when removing the blade that there is a possibility of it falling out. Now that I'm aware of it it's not a problem, I just don't tip the plane upside down.

 

[John15]

I agree, it's only a problem when the blade is out, it really flops about so I'd like to get it fixed.

John

 

[AndyT]

I don't see a problem with just tightening up a rivet. Obviously, you'd remove the frog and support the back of the pin so you weren't hammering onto the cast iron. If there's not enough metal in the rivet that is in there, you could probably replace it with a wire nail, cut short.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Tap the rivet with a round-headed hammer to tighten it. Do it gently, and test the lateral movement after each tap. It is easer to tighten than to loosen an over-tight rivet.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[John15]

Many thanks Andy and Derek for your advice. I thought of using a punch but a round headed hammer sounds better.

John

 

[John15]

I had a go at tightening the rivet this morning. I struck it as hard as I dare but with no effect. I had originally thought the lever was firm when the blade was in but it's actually got a lot of play before it engages. I wonder if the blade isn't seating correctly on the flat disc just below the rivet.

John

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I had a go at tightening the rivet this morning. I struck it as hard as I dare but with no effect. I had originally thought the lever was firm when the blade was in but it's actually got a lot of play before it engages. I wonder if the blade isn't seating correctly on the flat disc just below the rivet.

John

Try putting just the blade in, without the cap-iron attached, and see where the lateral adjuster comes relative to the blade slot. Then try with the cap-iron attached, and try to see if there's a difference. It should be possible to work out what's happening from there.

 

[Corneel]

Tightening a rivet is more a matter of many small punches to push the metal away to the sides. It's usually not one mighty blow!

But I also have a plane with a similar problem like you describe, the blade is clamping down hard on the adjuster. I think that it is not the original adjuster and it is in fact a little too thick.

 

[John15]

I've examined the plane more closely this morning and can now see why there is excessive play in the lever. In the photos the one on the left has the problem compared to the one on the right of similar age and with only a small amount of play.

On the LH one you can see the disc that fits in the blade slot has two flat spots caused I assume by wear, resulting in the disc not fitting snugly as it does in the RH plane. I was given this plane as an eleven year old and maybe I damaged it not knowing any better but I don't think so. I can't be certain that it is the original blade but there is a difference in the slot widths - 11.8 and 11.92mm.

This website gives some details http://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html.

John

 

[Vann]

This website gives some details http://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html.

That's a damned good website. I thought it went down last year - David Lynch died in 2014. I'm pleased to see it can still be accessed.

On the LH one you can see the disc that fits in the blade slot has two flat spots caused I assume by wear, resulting in the disc not fitting snugly as it does in the RH plane.

Stanley's earlier design had a rotating disc, so as to keep wear even, I guess. They changed to the fixed disc in the early 1930s (before production started in UK). Record copied the rotating disc, but went to a fixed disc towards the end of WW2.

You could learn to live with that much lateral slack. Or maybe replace the lateral (as it's loose anyway) with one from another (basket case) plane. Or remove the lateral and attempt surgery, before re-fitting it (pein the damaged section to spread the metal, or braze/weld some new metal to the edges).

Cheers, Vann.

 

[John15]

Thanks for that Vann. Glad David Lynch's website is of interest. I don't have the skill to repair the disk. Do you know how/if the lever unit can be replaced? On the rear side of the frog there is a protruding pin - I'm wondering if it will drive out.

John

 

[Vann]

Do you know how/if the lever unit can be replaced? On the rear side of the frog there is a protruding pin - I'm wondering if it will drive out.

The pin/rivet goes right through, so you should be able to knock one head off flush and drive it through. I've not repaired one myself (got at least one in the "to do" box) so I don't know if it's easier from one side or the other.

Finding a replacement would be difficult. Best source would be a basket case plane (one with a cracked or broken body) and then it might be as easy to just swap the whole frog.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[John15]

Do you know how/if the lever unit can be replaced? On the rear side of the frog there is a protruding pin - I'm wondering if it will drive out.

The pin/rivet goes right through, so you should be able to knock one head off flush and drive it through. I've not repaired one myself (got at least one in the "to do" box) so I don't know if it's easier from one side or the other.

Finding a replacement would be difficult. Best source would be a basket case plane (one with a cracked or broken body) and then it might be as easy to just swap the whole frog.

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks for those thoughts Vann.
I'm getting more and more nervous that I'll cause irreversible damage to the plane so I think I'll take the coward's way out and use it as it is.
Thanks again everyone for your suggestions.

John