looking for guidance on re-sawing with a tablesaw

[SlowSteve]

Hello.

Sorry for a second post immediately next to my first, but this is a seperate topic.

I am currently short on space, and until I build a workshop extension in the summer, I can't fit a bandsaw into the workshop. The biggest thing I am missing is being able to re-saw thick lumber into thinner lumber. I have found a very lovely wood yard which is highly hobbiest friendly ( http://www.johnboddytimber.co.uk/ - John Boddy in Yorkshire - very lovely place and a distressing large number of tools if you have TAD)

I have a TS-200 saw, which I am setting up following the guidance of Mathias Wandel ( who is a very smart cookie indeed ) and so will be accurate when it's done.

I figure I will have around 2.5" of cut height, so could in theory saw 5" planks, but it seems that if I just use the regular fence, it's a recipe for kickback and/or burning boards.

Is it a fool errard to try resawing like this? If not, can anyone provide tips and advice on what works and doesn't? Without a bandsaw, is there any other practical way? I don't think I have enough skill to hand cut it a ripsaw.

Thanks

Steve

 

[blackrodd]

I hope you don't mind me saying,NO.
If you were experienced enough to do it you wouldn't have asked.
The riving knife is not an issue as it can be set just under the saw blade height.
The sawdust will only have one way out and will get the blade very hot and hot and it might well burn out the smaller sized motor.

Regards Rodders

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Ditto, DON'T!

And what's lumber? Please, we are British.

Seriously, though, you need to look at American woodworking information under advisement. They may do silly things like re sawing on the table saw, but then their record of woodworking related amputations is scary. Wait till you get a bandsaw installed in your workshop extension.

Mike.

 

[SlowSteve]

OK, many thanks for the feedback - this is exactly why I asked, you guys are smarter and more experienced than I am.

This still leaves me with the challenge of only being able to buy inch thick materials, which is too thick for most projects, and too thick to be practical to hand plane down if I want to work with 1/2 inch or 3/8's to make the likes of drawers out of.

Thanks

Steve

 

[8squared]

For smaller re-sawing maybe something this may be useful.

http://youtu.be/Lef3Yel-Yc4

 

[blackrodd]

TBH, 2 1/2" cut is a fairly respectable timber size, and I would have thought using the TS 200 would enable you to machine and construct a wide amount of projects.
The thing is, how often would you use a bigger saw and actually need 3"x 3" or 4"x 4" etc cut.
Perhaps you should get a bench top bandsaw, my old 3 wheeler will still cut 4" although I have to go slow and steady in cutting.
Although a pain to fettle sometimes, once sorted, they seem to be first choice for many and so very versatile!
Wouldn't be without mine!
Regards Rodders

 

[Bodgers]

I have the Axminster 250 bandsaw that gives 120mm cut depth and although it comes mounted on a stand, it can be bench mounted. You could put it back on the stand when you do your extension.

I have seen Matthias' video on modding the table saw to increase the cut depth with the end stop mod. I haven't seen anything specific on his site about resawing on the tablesaw. Not sure if the mod would work with with the TS200...you are starting with a relatively shallow depth of cut anyway. You would probably have to ditch the riving knife, which isn't a good idea safety wise. Fence would have to be very well aligned with the blade to avoid kickback trouble - which with the standard TS200 isn't a given.

 

[DennisCA]

Resawing like that can work, I've done it a few times because I had no other options, though not with a TS200 but a much stronger and higher quality saw that I know is properly set up and square. Even then I didn't really like it. That jig Blackrodd links looks nice though, probably how I would do it now if I didn't have a bandsaw.

 

[Steve Maskery]

The TS200 is not the right machine to do this job, it really isn't. On many levels. You would be asking for trouble.
It is modest in both capacity and power, and resawing is a power-hungry task. I'd be very surprised indeed if you really could get 2 1/2" out of it. You would also have to mod the RK and how are you going to guard it? It's all very well following US practices, but that involves taking US risks and as you are at the beginning of your learning curve, taking risks is something I guess you don't really want to do.

The sad fact is that in order to do what you want you need some more expenditure and some more space.

Even a small bandsaw will resaw 5" if it is set up properly with the right blade, almost certainly not the one that comes with it. For years I had an Elu 2-wheeler, later DeWalt, and even that would resaw 6". Slowly, yes, but it would do it.

Sorry to contribute to the bad news, but the good news is that are far more likely to keep your fingers.

 

[Mark A]

I don't have a bandsaw so instead I use a handheld circular saw to 'deep rip' (I believe that's what it's called).

A bandsaw's obviously better, but if you're short of space then the alternative isn't bad.

 

[Scottdimelow]

I have the TS200, I used it to re-saw some 120mm oak. Not a nice thing to do, the motor is under powered. It creates a lot of heat so the wood bowed too. I'm in the same boat, need more space for a bandsaw.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I don't have a bandsaw so instead I use a handheld circular saw to 'deep rip' (I believe that's what it's called).

A bandsaw's obviously better, but if you're short of space then the alternative isn't bad.

YES IT IS!!!!

Mark, mate, that is a really dangerous way to tackle this job. You have very little support for the baseplate of the saw and I don't see how you can have any control over the cut, especially the second cut.

I'm not saying it cannot be done, but is has huge risks associated with it. It is not the right tool for the job.

 

[geordie]

I couldn,t agree more with Steve I use hand held circ saws alot and they dont like to cut the full depth of the blade for a small cut let alone a long rip
and please belive me a kick back with a saw you have in your hands is not a pleasant thing.Be safe and wait for your workshop extension and bandsaw

Geordie

 

[ayuce]

I read people, cut the tip of finger on mitresaw (usually considered safer than circular and table saw) while crosscutting 2x4 s because of kickback. Resaw on table saw, circular saw nooo.

Perhaps its better to discuss how to store bandsaw and which size, power is best for your needs.

 

[Glynne]

SlowSteve,
Just checking you're in the land of the living and have all your bits intact as it's a couple of weeks since your last post?
To echo what everyone is saying, don't do it.

 

[Mark A]

Oh dear... I should explain before there's a warrant out for my arrest!

I sandwich the timber to be ripped with 2x4's so that it's more stable, and the saw's baseplate has a wider surface to rest on. I proceed to take several shallow cuts with the saw from one side. I then turn over the timber, wedge some 3mm plastic packers into the kerf, clamp back on the 2x4's and cut the other side with the saw.

Crucially I set the depth of cut so by the end there is some material left in the centre, which is removed with a reciprocating saw or jigsaw.

For ripping I use the two on the right, my "wormdrive" circular saws - they have loads of torque (can power through the cut without slowing) and the balance is just about perfect.

I understand why some of you are concerned, but I feel the risks involved are negated by doing it my way.

Vindicated? [-o<

 

[Steve Maskery]

Almost...
S

 

[Mark A]

 

[Scottdimelow]

Nothing wrong with that, 20 years ago nobody would of said anything was wrong with. I'll go out on a limb here, I use my TS without a riving knife..I'll get my coat.

 

[DennisCA]

I did resaw a board today on my table saw, but I got a 3½hp 3-phase saw and a short fence. Basically I was too lazy to setup the bandsaw that had a 6tpi 1/4" blade on it with my 1/2" 3tpi blade, and I still have to plane and thickness boards made on it. The table saw cut is almost as good as a planed surface, almost. So it does have it uses despite having a bandsaw I guess.