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Aragorn

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I've had a search but can't find...
Someone posted a photo of a rather nice jig a while ago for cutting housings with a router. I think it was all adjustable rather than just four bits of wood nailed together.
Does this ring a bell with anyone?

Thanks
Aragorn
 
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Anonymous

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Aragorn

I didn't want to answer, despite my jig king status, as I wasn't sure what a housing is :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

I hope to improve the jig shown in the link anobium punctatum points to by the addition of clamp bars underneath to hold material and some moveable stops on the top for stopped dados

The jig as shown is still being used and still performing well :wink:
 

Aragorn

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Yep that's the one!
Thanks AP and Tony.


Alf :shock: I know....
Deary, deary me.... :wink:
 
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Anonymous

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no probs Aragorn my pleasure. Tony i know ure king of the jigs but you should be making a box or summat (trying desperately to distract him from his jig making but that might do the trick :lol: ).
 
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Anonymous

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Did I tell you about my latest couple of ideas for jigs?

Well........

No you'll just have to wait for the new website that I am starting as soon as I log off of here tonight.

Tony's_Jigs.co.uk? or Tony_didn't_know_what_a_housing_is.co.uk?
 

Noel

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Tony,

I'll not mention Sherlock Holmes, then?

Rgds

Noel
 

Dewy

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A very similar jig was patented in Canada a few years ago.
When put on sale it soon became the biggest selling power tool accessory in North America.
It's made of plastic and is meant for circular saws but can also be used for routers.
One slide is fixed at 90° and the other is adjustable for different saw or router bases.
The only real difference with the same jig many have made is the addition of an adjustable mitre fence so almost any circular saw can do the same as a radial arm saw.
http://www.macboard.qc.ca/indexe.html
I made my own out of some chipboard and softwood rails after seeing the MAC board demonstrated.
I then started making one with a much longer back fence so I could fit stops for repetitive housings.
A bad injury 12 months ago put everything on hold until I'm fully repaired.
This inactivity has allowed me a lot of thinking time so the workshop (garage) will be cleared then refitted to give more working space (therefore safer) with all gardening tools being moved to a new shed to be built.
A carport like covering for the rear of the house will allow all the tools to be kept out of the rain while new work benches and tables are made to suit all the power tools I have accumulated over the last few years.
I'm really looking forward to the clearout so I can put all power tools i their place to simplify their use.
 

Bean

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Dewy I've seen them there boards and I think they are in the new Axminster Book. They certainly look useful.

Bean
 

Dewy

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I bought one from QVC when they gave me a £15 discount as compensation for a lot of trouble I had with an order.
I had it for £25 instead of £40.
It is limited to 18" cross cut and much less when using the mitre fence.
I had already made a similar jig for cutting housings with my router and have now designed an improvement with stops on both ends to allow housings that are wider than the cutter in use.
I've always found that you can spend a long time thinking how you you will make a jig and then it suddenly hits you how to make it a lot simpler and easier to use.
This happened when I wanted to use the table saw for cheek cuts on tenons.
I made a very simple jig that fitted in the mitre slot and had adjustable stop for tenon length.
I mearly slide the stop to a length marked on the jig and tighten the 2 wingnuts.
Hey presto. All tenons perfect everytime.
 

Bean

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Dewy
I think a bit more of an explanation of the tenoning jig is requred, or at least a couple of pictures


Bean
 

Dewy

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Hi Bean
Its basically just a mitre gauge.
I used a hardwood runner to fit the slot then fitted a piece of ply so the front edge was at 90° to the slot and ended just short of the blade.
To this was added a 4-5" strip of ply that went about 6" past the blade.
On this I made a slot beyond the blade to fit the stop.
The stop has 2 holes in to take bolts held with wing buts.
A pass through the saw with the blade at about 1/2" gives the point from which different lines could be marked for tenon lengths.
To produce the cheek cuts just hold the workpiece against the stop.
The side cuts are always shallower than the end of the tenons where the blade is raised.
I find it a lot better than using a pice against the fence as a stop because that way it's possible for the work to slip.
With the stop, they cant, so tenons are always the correct length.
I've often just nibbled the tenon faces so there is no need to finish them with either a hand saw or a tenoning jig.
This leaves a slightly rough surface that helps to make a tighter fit when glueing.
 
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