LONG REVIEW OF SIP 12" TABLE SAW (FINALLY)

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Mike.C

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Adam, I see what you mean I did not realise that.

What about if I put an adaptor onto the crown guard and then run a length of normal 100mm ribbed pipe from the metal ducting with one of the Axminster 100mm rubber bungs in the end, right down to the crown guard/adaptor?

Cheers

Mike
 

Lord Nibbo

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Mike.C":qvxznrxm said:
As I mentioned in the review the dust extraction pipe for the crown guard is not very good at all, and so I want to get a couple of adapters and a larger diameter pipe (say around 60mm), so can anyone point me in the direction of a company who maybe able to help?

Cheers

Mike
Mike I binned the original pipe too. I used an old standard vacuum hose I salvaged from our old Hoover, I just cut the ends off the pipe and it fitted without any adapters. :)
 

Mike.C

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LN wrote,

Mike I binned the original pipe too. I used an old standard vacuum hose I salvaged from our old Hoover, I just cut the ends off the pipe and it fitted without any adapters.

Thats what I was going to do but Adam says that a bigger pipe is better, and by doing this way it will connect up to my metal duct work without any reducers on that end.

So you got rid of yours to, isn't it a load of rubbish?

Cheers

Mike
 

Adam

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Mike.C":24tjvuiw said:
Adam, I see what you mean I did not realise that.
What about if I put an adaptor onto the crown guard and then run a length of normal 100mm ribbed pipe from the metal ducting with one of the Axminster 100mm rubber bungs in the end, right down to the crown guard/adaptor?
Cheers Mike

Yes, that would be the optimal solution for maximum throughput. See the picture. You can try it with a length of kitchen roll tube, and a disc of cardboard at one end, which matches a similarly long piece of narrower tube. Heres my best description in sketchup.

74402774.jpg


You can sort of see this here:

Adam
30922612.jpg
 

jonny boy

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Hello,
Very interesting and detailed table saw review. Rates among one of the best i've read on here. One point of interest though, I'd like to know how the 4horse power motor works in conjunction with only one belt to the blade arbor. If when you cut at full depth there is no loss of power or slipping it would confirm my suspitions that some 3hp motors that have three belts is somewhat of an overkill. Be interesting to find out.

cheers,
jon.
 

Mike.C

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jonny,

Very interesting and detailed table saw review. Rates among one of the best i've read on here.

Thanks Jon its nice of you to say so.

Jonny,

One point of interest though, I'd like to know how the 4horse power motor works in conjunction with only one belt to the blade arbor. If when you cut at full depth there is no loss of power or slipping it would confirm my suspitions that some 3hp motors that have three belts is somewhat of an overkill. Be interesting to find out.

Except for the number of belts, to be honest I no have idea the differences between 1 and 3 belt machines. I have ripped 4" teak (well 90mm), 70 and 50mm oak and a number of other soft and hardwoods with no problems at all, and there was certainly no slipping or loss of power.
This is the first 12" and 4hp saw that I have owned and I can notice the difference in power, it cuts through everything with complete ease.

Cheers

Mike
 

jonny boy

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Hi,
Thanks for the reply Mike, as I suspected, You obviously have no problems with power transferring from motor to blade. Maybe someone will come along and give me a good reason why a three horse power motor would need three belts but yet a four horse power can quite happily serve it's purpose with one.
Oh, and enjoy your saw!!

cheers
jon.
 

Mike.C

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Thanks LN

I thought so. Things like this really p--s me off, its only a bit of plastic so why do they have to lie about it, especially as it states in the manual which came with the saw that the contents includeds a push stick.

Cheers

Mike

.
 

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