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JFC

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Close to where i live there has been a tree cut down and left for a while now in log form . As i past it today i thought hmmmm maybe i could use some of that for..... well i didn't get that far in my thinking but as i normally buy my timber in already P.A.R im not sure how to go about it .
Its been there for a good 2 years now so has it dried enough or do i need to mill it to what i want and lay it out ? Its been a few years since i was taught all this and not having been in this field of wood work ever im at a loss at what to do but willing to try just for the fun of it .
 

DaveL

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JFC,

You might find that the logs have very large shakes from the ends drying very quickly. :( If you are cutting logs for use as timber the ends need to be sealed asap to stop this happening. I would still cut the logs up just to see if there is any usable timber in them. [-o<
If the logs are large then the core will not be fully dry yet, rule of thumb, boards cut from green timber need one year per inch of thickness to air dry. If you buy most of your timber PAR then I doubt you have a moisture meter, very useful when buying sawn timber for checking if it is ready for use. :D This is what you need if you want to made stuff for indoors use, you could get away with using it for garden things without checking the moisture content. 8)
 

JFC

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Your right i dont have a moisture meter but i can get my hands on one . The logs are massive and i think id need to cut them onsite just to move them so maybe some hope there for usable timber .
You mention use for outdoor use , i have the plans to build a slipper launch :D maybe this is the raw material i need :-k
 

jasonB

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Do you know what wood it is, you may be lucky to find some nice spalting if it was something like beech. The biggest problem will be split ends as the moisture will have evaporated quicker from the ends of the butts.

Whats the exact size of the butts, if they have been laying that long you will probably loose 12" from each end and the diameter will come down if there is a marked difference between sap & heart wood. Not forgetting waste from the saw kerfs (chain or band).

Jason
 

Alf

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DaveL":2uaexwwm said:
You might find that the logs have very large shakes from the ends drying very quickly. :( If you are cutting logs for use as timber the ends need to be sealed asap to stop this happening.
Even that's not always enough. My brother brought down the first of two big chunks of apple wood last week - 'bout 12"+ across. :shock: Under my instruction he sealed the ends, 'cos trying to give directions for doing anything else over the 'phone simply isn't on, but it's split like billy-oh nevertheless. I could have cried. :cry: As it is, if I'd been on the spot to do it, I think at least splitting them in half might have helped.

Cheers, Alf
 

JFC

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Well i milled some up today just to see ... bear with me ill try and put some pics up :lol:

I managed to turn a nice rope mould and get a few pieces ready for the thickneser that i will put through tomorrow . Im not to sure what the timber is but there is some lovely markings on it . It looks like ash but is very light in weight . Ill have to flick through my wood book . :lol:
 

JFC

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Ive got a pic of the timber at the bottom of my very bad website and i've been trying to load it on here all day and most of the night :lol:
Id love to know what it is maybe spalted Ash ?
 

jasonB

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I'd go for spalted sycamore, the stuff I used on the box I posted a couple of weeks ago was very light, much lighter than non-spalted sycamore. But as maple & sycamore are all the same family you may be right.

Nice looking bit of wood though :D

Here is the wood for the benifit of others,

Jason
 

JFC

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I nearly put sycamore but i've not worked with it before so wasn't sure . i've just finished the top or base i haven't decided yet . I need to go get more logs to finish . As soon as i work out how to get the pics on here ill post them .
 

jasonB

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Are you making stuff with it straight away, whats the moisture content like, hate to see it all move and/or split in a few weeks time :(

Pics are easy, click the img box along the top of the reply page, then copy & paste the link to pic, click the img box again it will look something like this (spaces added for example)

[im g]http://ww w.angelfire.com/al4/jfc/logs_007.jpg[/im g]

Jason
 

JFC

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Yeah i made a small table top with it and it cupped within 3 hours :lol:
It doesn't matter as i played to much and cut into the biscuits #-o
Ill nip down tomorrow and mill up the next lot and have ago at seasoning it . 1 thing i do wonder about this is , Spalting is a defect in the timber and i would send it back if found in PAR , is spalting rot setting in and if so wouldn't leaving it to season leave the rot to spread ?
The turned table leg i made out of the logs is still in wind so i think ill do more of that just to see what happens .
P.S can i get arrested for taking logs from local woods and how would i explain my criminal conviction to the lads down the pub :lol:
[/img]http://www.angelfire.com/al4/jfcj/logs_007.jpg

 

trevtheturner

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Hi JFC,

The discolouration known as spalting is caused by a fungus which gets into the end grain of some woods,
particularly when they have fallen or been felled and left in situ for a period. The degree of spalting,
as the fungus progresses through the grain of the wood is usually related to the length of time the wood has been
left lying. It will, if the wood is left lying too long, eventually lead to the wood rotting. However, if the log is milled
into boards, the spalting process usually ceases and goes no further. So if your wood is still sound (looks it from
your pic.) mill it into boards and put it 'in stick' to dry. As a rule of thumb, a 1" thick board will need about
12 months to air dry. A 2" board is likely to need more than 2 years, and so on. The thicker the boards,
proportionately they need longer to dry. They should, however, remain sound if they are sound, and not soft,
to start with. If they are soft, best use them for some winter heating!

For air-drying, in case you are not aware, they should have a free flow of air around them but, at the same time,
be protected from rain and direct sunlight. To prevent, or at least keep to a minimum, end splitting, it is important
to seal any end grain a.s.a.p. - I normally use undiluted PVA, or some old, left over paint will do. Hope this helps.

BTW I wouldn't worry about explaining your criminal conviction to the lads down the pub - better to worry more
about what you'll tell the cops if you get caught! :wink: :lol: :lol:

Cheers,

Trev.

P.S. Next step here is to get your pic. size smaller! Don't know if this is the easiest way but here's how I do it FWIW:
find the pic. on my computer. Right click on it and then left click 'Edit' from the menu that appears.
Then l.click 'Image' on the top menu, then l.click 'sketch/skew'. Change horizontal and vertical to 50% for half-size, etc.
Then l.click on 'file' then 'save as' - choose name for image and save.
Picture size of 640 x 480 is about right for posting on here. It is then ready for putting on your hosting site.
 

jasonB

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As Trev says the spalting is caused by different fungi setting up barriers against other types. These fungi need moisture to grow, as soon as you start to dry the wood they will be starved of moisture and stop multiplying.

It is very important to wear breathing protection when working spalted wood as the spores will fill the air and your warm damp lungs will be the ideal enviroment for them to start growing in :!:

If you edit your last post to remove
then the link should work.

Jason
 

JFC

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:shock: Lets hope i've inhaled enough dry rot chemical over the years to stop my lungs spalting !
As for the pics i don't think angelfire will allow me to use it as a host site for my pics .
 

Rob_H

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Any ideas as to what I should use to seal the end of logs to prevent shakes developing?
 

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