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Lining a workshop/craft room

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keithy1959

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my daughter has roped me into lining a garage space for home office / craft room. She wants ply walls. Given the costs, I'm thinking of 12mm OSB and then 6mm ply either glued or pinned on to the OSB. Can anybody think of a good reason not to do this (assuming price makes it worthwhile) ?

Garage will be fully insulated with >100mm Celotex all round.

TIA
Richard
 

Simon89

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what kind of ply finish are you after?

I think I would just use the correct thickness of ply to start with. Not sure how successful you would be gluing ply to osb. Is there much of a cost saving using osb & ply over just ply?
 

robgul

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. . . I'd try and persuade her to have OSB for the "cool & trendy" look of it . . . .

As hinted at, I think you'd need to scuff the OSB fairly heavily to get glue to take on it - OSB has almost a "varnish" finish
 

Myfordman

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Don’t forget a vapour barrier on the WARM side of the insulation and to check that the garage floor has a damp roof membrane in the floor. You might think the floor is nice and dry now but that is because you have airflow through. This can all change once the room is created and the draughts removed.
test the floor by placing a piece of dry newspaper on the floor and covering with a larger piece of polythene overlapping all round. Weight down round the edges. Leave for a few days, take up the paper which should still be crisp if not chances are you don’t have a dpm.
 

Adam W.

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Don’t forget a vapour barrier on the WARM side of the insulation and to check that the garage floor has a damp roof membrane in the floor. You might think the floor is nice and dry now but that is because you have airflow through. This can all change once the room is created and the draughts removed.
test the floor by placing a piece of dry newspaper on the floor and covering with a larger piece of polythene overlapping all round. Weight down round the edges. Leave for a few days, take up the paper which should still be crisp if not chances are you don’t have a dpm.
And a DPC, which is lacking in my parents garage. If it was there I'd have converted it into a live in studio by now.
 

keithy1959

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what kind of ply finish are you after?

I think I would just use the correct thickness of ply to start with. Not sure how successful you would be gluing ply to osb. Is there much of a cost saving using osb & ply over just ply?
That would be our preferred option for sure, but she wants birch ply quality finish. Last time I looked 18mm Birch ply was at £90 a sheet vs c£55 for OSB/Thin ply . Mulling it over, I think we'd just pin the ply to allow for different movements.
 
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keithy1959

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Don’t forget a vapour barrier on the WARM side of the insulation and to check that the garage floor has a damp roof membrane in the floor. You might think the floor is nice and dry now but that is because you have airflow through. This can all change once the room is created and the draughts removed.
test the floor by placing a piece of dry newspaper on the floor and covering with a larger piece of polythene overlapping all round. Weight down round the edges. Leave for a few days, take up the paper which should still be crisp if not chances are you don’t have a dpm.
Garage is built into a hillside, and has been fully tanked and new insulated floor is already installed. Insulation will be fully taped and will be the vapour barrier.
 

keithy1959

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. . . I'd try and persuade her to have OSB for the "cool & trendy" look of it . . . .

As hinted at, I think you'd need to scuff the OSB fairly heavily to get glue to take on it - OSB has almost a "varnish" finish
Yep, with you 100% there. I'm trying to persuade them to try OSB and paint first, and if they hate it, buy ply if/when prices stabilise. Her partner has a fairly "bold" taste in wall colours so I think OSB might look good.
I'm thinking of pinning rather than glueing now to allow movement differentials unless anyone has tried it and warns me off, but good thought about scuffing - hadnt realised that !
 

adidat

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. . . I'd try and persuade her to have OSB for the "cool & trendy" look of it . . . .

As hinted at, I think you'd need to scuff the OSB fairly heavily to get glue to take on it - OSB has almost a "varnish" finish

Pu glue or the devils jizz as we call it (nasty stuff) will stick it no problem. but when it comes down to cost 11mm osb will do the trick, or as peter says board it.

I did my whole workshop in 22mm caberdeck a job required a temporary stage for 3 hours use so I specced that then brought it all back to Somerset, and put it up as my walls. Makes putting up anything on the walls a pleasure as its proper solid and just bang a few screws in.

Adidat
 

jonn

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my daughter has roped me into lining a garage space for home office / craft room. She wants ply walls. Given the costs, I'm thinking of 12mm OSB and then 6mm ply either glued or pinned on to the OSB. Can anybody think of a good reason not to do this (assuming price makes it worthwhile) ?

Garage will be fully insulated with >100mm Celotex all round.

TIA
Richard
Use Gyproc all around! Fire-proof and easy to work with. Could be lined with plywood or thin wood panel if you need to waste that money.
 

plum60

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my daughter has roped me into lining a garage space for home office / craft room. She wants ply walls. Given the costs, I'm thinking of 12mm OSB and then 6mm ply either glued or pinned on to the OSB. Can anybody think of a good reason not to do this (assuming price makes it worthwhile) ?

Garage will be fully insulated with >100mm Celotex all round.

TIA
Richard
It's important to remember that OSB was designed to be used underneath another covering the reason being it is formed with formaldehyde and other toxins which are carcinogenic. If they are not encapsulated and someone uses a heater in there for instance they will breath in tiny particles over time- they could die early! In fact many anthropologists are now studying many materials used in construction and say we are surrounding ourselves in our homes with some very nasty components that no-one wants to mention too much. Keep you and yours safe and dont be a sheep is my advice, find natural material to use as much as you can perhaps.
 

2sheds

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I thought you put the breather membrane on the cold side of the insulation, i.e. put it on first? That's what I am about to do with my shed/workshop. Then I'm using 50mm Celotex and 12mm ply over the top. Ply is slightly cheaper than OSB at the moment. I'm getting the hardwood ply at £28 a sheet. 18mm is £38.50. Cutpriceinsulation.co.uk
 

Myfordman

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Breather on the cold side, barrier on the warm side. Both are aimed at keeping water vapour out of the insulation which could in time render is useless depending on type.
 

2sheds

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Ah, misread it Myfordman, apologies. Breather on cold side, and taped Celotex forms the vapour barrier on the inside, then ply.

Got it, thanks.
 

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