Light Pulls
- Thread starter Peter59
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woodyturner
Established Member
Ha ha ha both a 3mm hole all the way through opened out to a 4mm hole on the bottom for the knot to hide
How big's a piece of string?
woodyturner
Established Member
From one end to the other 
4mm is not big enough for a knot, I make mine with a 4mm hole through and 8 to 10mm for the knot depending on the size of the light pull.
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I have always used 3 and 4mm holes and an Ian Wilkie light pull drive. Bought from the man himself whren I did a weekend course with him a long time back.. 3mm nylon cord and a single thumb knot does the trick..
woodyturner
Established Member
3 and 4mm drills have been the standard size drills for light pulls at least for the 20 odd years that I have been tuning and teaching turning but there are and always will be some that use different sizes but who is right and who is wrong no one we all do our own thing happy turningmyturn":3evebl9j said:
How big's a piece of string?woodyturner":3py1n7gb said:
Thanks all for advice.
I have a spindle tap...brilliant bit of kit that allows me to mount a block of timber on the lathe spindle and then turn jam chucks etc which sit directly on the spindle..this saves a lot of time changing jaws when I'm making salt and pepper grinders and other stuff that needs a lot of remounting. John...do you think I could turn your light pull holder out of a bit of decent hardwood? I'm guessing its a stepped cylinder on a 2 MT shaft? Never seen one.
Peter
I have a spindle tap...brilliant bit of kit that allows me to mount a block of timber on the lathe spindle and then turn jam chucks etc which sit directly on the spindle..this saves a lot of time changing jaws when I'm making salt and pepper grinders and other stuff that needs a lot of remounting. John...do you think I could turn your light pull holder out of a bit of decent hardwood? I'm guessing its a stepped cylinder on a 2 MT shaft? Never seen one.
Peter
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
Peter59":1usy39y6 said:
That's exactly what it is Peter, and easy to make out of well seasoned hardwood, but not expensive to buy either http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod799262/
Cheers, Paul
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Axy don't seem to do Ian's jobbie now, but the Axy one is almost the same. It has a couple more steps which could be quite handy.
If you lash out on the Axy one then it will last a lifetime. Even with the hardest hardwood it would need replacing after a while? I've had mine better part of 15 years now..
As a matter of interest and I have said this before, when I'm spindle turning and have an MT drive in the headstock, I have the drive spindle thread protector fitted. That's so when I need to remove the MT drive I hold the shaft with the supplied spanner and unscrew the thread protector to push and release the MT. If you had a hardwood MT drive you would need to make very sure you hadve a good strong shoulder to push against?
If you lash out on the Axy one then it will last a lifetime. Even with the hardest hardwood it would need replacing after a while? I've had mine better part of 15 years now..
As a matter of interest and I have said this before, when I'm spindle turning and have an MT drive in the headstock, I have the drive spindle thread protector fitted. That's so when I need to remove the MT drive I hold the shaft with the supplied spanner and unscrew the thread protector to push and release the MT. If you had a hardwood MT drive you would need to make very sure you hadve a good strong shoulder to push against?
Use a old 1/4" morse taper drill that fits your lathe. Grind off the drill part and use the round steel left as the drive, Just grind a 45deg. screwwdriver point on the tip. Cost me nowt as the drill was knackered, and is the only drive I have used other than the 'Wilkie' drive. Didn't like it at all, OK if your taking your time and doing a small run, but many moons ago I used to get asked for 100 or two at a time so wanted speed of use. I found that the 'Wilkie' drive would slip if you took too big a cut, also the size of hole was critical if you wanted it to grip tight enough with out using too much tail pressure.
I now have 2 drives made using morse drills, 1/4" for the small, and a 3/8" for the bigger pulls.
I now have 2 drives made using morse drills, 1/4" for the small, and a 3/8" for the bigger pulls.
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
Jonzjob":8jiu21z3 said:
Not if you have a hollow headstock spindle like mine and many others, just use a knock-out bar, but otherwise yes you're right of course.
Alternatively just turn one up from close grained hardwood with a large base section to fit in your chuck jaws, or if you have a spindle thread tap make one up to screw over the spindle thread.
Agreed that hardwood wouldn't last for ever but how long would it take to turn one up every few years, 20 minutes perhaps ?
Then again, a tenner isn't that much for the manufactured version !
Cheers, Paul
Jonzjob":1ctj4iil said:
Thanks for all the tips.
I didn't make myself very clear about the wooden chucks.....pics show the idea.
these are chunky boys...they can be turned much smaller depending on the job. I use odd bits hardwood laminated together, so the thread is tapped across the grain. I have a few so I have to write their function on them, get confused easily these days (homer) .
Peter
