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length of infeed extension table on jointer?

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gidon

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I'm having a little trouble planing some 2m lengths of 2" thick oak on my Scheppach HMS260. There is a small bow over the length. Not surprising really since the overall table length of the Scheppach tables is about 1m. I am supporting the wood both ends but my shed floor is so uneven this can never really be accurate enough to do anything other than just support the timber.

So I'm going to add a precisely set infeed extension table, strapped directly to the infeed table (there are some handy 10mm holes already there). I plan to support the 3/4" MDF table on some hardwood runners and may also need a support at the end.

So finally to my 2 questions:

1. As far as I can work out it's only necessary to add this to the infeed table (at the outfeed table I just plan to user a crudely adjusted roller stand). Is this correct?

2. What's the minimum length infeed table I need to add? I guess if I add a 1m length table that'll support the entire length?

Appreciate all your thoughts and comments.

Cheers

Gidon
 

ike

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Scheppach do (or did) a table extension set, basically some flat bars attached to the sides of the infeed and outfeed table (the purpose of the holes to which you refer) and a roller on each end. I think the extension was about 10" or so.

cheers

Ike
 

gidon

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Thanks Ike - I checked with NMA on that after you mentioned it, but they confirmed what I already feared: these (pricey) things are just for supporting the timber. They felt in no way would they give any effective extra length to the tables - which is what I'm after here.
Cheers
Gidon
 

Aragorn

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Hi Gidon
You'd need to make the infeed extension very precisely adjustable in height to be able to align it well to the infeed table.
Overall length of my Jet 60A is around 6' I think - doesn't give me any trouble with 2m lengths, but if you've got space, then I can't see a problem adding more - it will just give additional support!
I'd want some extra on the outfeed too. It's the support of the outfeed table that's going to get your timber perfectly straight. This could just be roller stands, but again - they would need to ne very precisely aligned.

Good luck!
 

SimonA

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Howdy Peeps.......I've had a few problems with this in the past, but I was planing 10' lengths of 7"x2" Oak for a couple of table tops. You have to be in credibly strong to be able to hold these things straight over that kind of length. I easied the lifting a little bit by using two roller stands, but because these arn't exactly in line you still have to have a lot of downward pressure on both tables to not plane that bow into the timber.

If you haven't got many to do you could plane them by hand with a #7 and a nice square block of wood clamped to the side to keep it at 90degs! The last little bit there is for the planing inept .ie "me" :oops: I'm presuming that everybody else can hold the plane properly :lol:

SimonA
 

beech1948

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Gideon,
As I understand it you have some bowed 2in thick oak to which you want to remove the bow using your planer thicknesser...just so I understand.

One way is to find a flat base sheet...maybe 8-9-10 inches wide. I use two 3/4inch pieces of birch ply screwed together. Onto this tray I fasten my bowed or otherwise out of square wood..maybe screws (counter sunk very carefully to avoid impact with blades)...maybe just dowels in the ends through to the ply. I have even just put some battens around the bowed wood to hold it in place. You now have a flat platform which will register with your thicknesser base plate as square and be square to the blades. Thus avoiding the problem of your excellent p/t followingn the bow outline.

Push it through maybe only 0.5/1mm at a time..check..keep pushing through until the wood has a square face. Now use planer or just remove from flat ply base and turn over and push through thicknesser using the square face to register on the base plate. Key question is have you enough thickness to plane out the bow.....1/4 inch bow would lose you at least 1/2 inch of thickness.or more ....due to two sides needing correcting.

Also would need to be sure(ish) that the wood had aclimitised to your shop humidity/temp/damp/dry ..whatever.

Hope this helps and is clear
 

frank

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beech isnt it about time you put some boards down on that floor :wink: :wink:
 

Midnight

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Gidon, I'd be inclined to add equal sized extensions to both in / out feed tables, not just for accuracy, but to counter-balance each other too. In addition, it might be an idea to ensure that the machine is firmly bolted to the floor...

fwiw... it was this exact same thing that caused me to give up the bench jointer and go handraulic instead. Just not enough shop space to upgrade the machine.
 

frank

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beech sorry its the wifes glasses cant see a thing , :? i should have said gidon his floor is not level allegedly . :wink: :wink:
 

Alf

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Gidon, what on earth are you making that requires 2" thick, 2m* lengths anyway?


Curious (in both senses of the word), Alf

*Oh look, confusion for both young and old...
 

gidon

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Thanks folks.
Aragorn - I think you're right - taking it up to 6-8' overall length should do it.
Simon, John - Unfortunately it's the faces I've having more difficulty with. I did take the high spots of the edges with a hand plane. Yep - ripping the 10.5" wide 2" thick board on the bandsaw was no picnic!
Beech - nice idea thanks - may have to try that ...
Midnight - think that's what I'll go for - but I'll try on the infeed first.
Frank - levelling the shed floor is a job that is long overdue - and would make things a lot easier in there!
Alf - not sure who's young and who's old here :)wink:). I'd like to say I'm making a large dining room table (since that needs doing too), but in fact I'm attempting to make a front door (at long last)! Begining to wish I'd never started it! I'm still not sure how I'm going to make the 4" deep through mortices when my pilar drill only has 3" travel if that. Finally justification for that morticer! Keep telling myself I'm saving £700 odd.
Cheers
Gidon
 

Alf

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gidon":1ws1r32k said:
in fact I'm attempting to make a front door (at long last)!
Ahh. Simple solution then. Go for a stable door style and chop the bloomin' things in 'arf...


Cheers, Alf
MD, Helpful-Solutions-To-Go
 

Aragorn

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Gidon - why didn't you say it was a front door?! You don't want to remove the bow on the stiles: warped doors are just so much more fun to hang :lol:
 

frank

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gidon can you not use a (dare i say it ) a hammer and chisel to do the mortis, :? then again you do need a new toy :wink: :wink:
 

gidon

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Frank - a what and a what?? :wink:
I may have to to be honest - can't bring myself to have something else to find a place for in the workshop (apart from the expense) but I'll see how I get on ... Maybe a nice excuse to buy some decent mortise chisels instead.
Cheers
Gidon
 

Adam

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gidon":3v7bog1u said:
Frank - a what and a what?? :wink:
I may have to to be honest - can't bring myself to have something else to find a place for in the workshop (apart from the expense) but I'll see how I get on ... Maybe a nice excuse to buy some decent mortise chisels instead.
Cheers
Gidon
Take 'em down you local cabinetmaker/gate maker/pine furniture manufacturer and for an exchange for some folding stuff, you'll be able to get a bit of time on a decent size morticer for an hour or so.

Adam
 

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