last try on bandasaw repair

[sunnybob]

I'm going over this Fox bandsaw one last time before i put it in the dustbin, and need other peoples thoughts on the top wheel mechanism.

This assembly is very flimsy pressed metal parts with lots of slop in every direction.

I can take out the sideways slop by replacing a pin and circlips with a bolt and washers, but then the up/down adjustment doesnt work.

Heres the question, should there be side play? I'm talking stand in front of the machine, hold the edge of the wheel at 3 o clock, and push away and pull towards me kind of slop. There may be as much as a half inch total movement.

Can anyone let me know what movement (if any) is acceptable please.

 

[dzj]

There should be no movement.
I'd disassemble everything, replace worn parts, or better still, fabricate new and better ones.
If it's one of those cheap aluminium models, perhaps it's not worth the bother.
Can't say much more without photos.

 

[paulm]

Sounds like the top wheel may need a new bearing ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[sunnybob]

I've had it all apart. its new (ish) and nothing is worn. But it is cheap and very nasty.
the spindle and wheel bearing itself is fine, the sliding adjuster is where it all turns brown and runny.

I dont think I can make a sliding adjuster that will remove all side play without it costing more than the machine is worth to me.
If the wheel truly needs to be movement free in relation to the main body, then this piece of junk is gone.

 

[finish_that]

Does the slop go away when you fit a blade and tension it ? The top wheel sliding block type designs can bee very loose until the blade tension pulls them square against the channel they slide in + the tilt adjuster on the side - is this
loose or correctly assembled ?

 

[sunnybob]

The wheel axle is welded to an iron box section about 1/2" square and 4" long. Its held into a flat iron loop by a pivot pin. all this slides up and down inside a pair of iron wings folded over from the main bracket.

There is so much room for error in all these sliding pieces. You have given me one idea though. The tilt adjuster is simply a bolt that pushes the block out. If I make a wider pressure plate, rather than what is now basically a pivot, that might remove some play.

I'm still thinking its time to replace it, but I will spend one last day of effort.

 

[finish_that]

Good - its worth a go - I know my Inca saw - which works as well as the reputation - if the top wheel is not under tension it will move easily with the block/box.
Another idea - file the block/box square at the bottom where it rests on the saw folded wings and saw body - so
it cannot rock about apart from up and down for tension and "lean" for the tracking.

 

[sunnybob]

Oh believe me, this P.O.S. is NOT in the incra league. Every thing is square, the problem is there are three sliding surfaces each side, with over generous manufacturing tolerances on all of them. (I think thats an over generous description).
Theres nothing to file, its more a case of welding more metal to everything and starting again, but its not worth that much effort.
I have gone with folding the side wings tighter in the big vice, making a double crank in each arm to reduce the slop, and then the nut and bolt to just make it tight.

Now I find having removed the whole top assembly, the fixing holes are over large, so I cant even reposition it accurately, I shall have to fit a blade, part tension it to hope it brings the assembly in line and then finally tighten.

I almost bought the axminster £500 one three weeks ago, but then found some dodgy reviews even on that one and held off. Maybe its time...

 

[finish_that]

I have read your foxy saga - and it is harrowing stuff! Good luck .
Incidently how many kg is the luggage allowance on your flights , and the excess ,
some saws would fit in a large suitcase with the motor removed.

 

[sunnybob]

Hah, you really are up to speed.

I fly BA for several reasons, one of which is luggage allowance. When i fly economy (normally) i get 1 x 23kgs, plus a pretty generous hand luggage (if you can lift it into the locker, youre good to go).
Every so often because I fly regularly, i get an upgrade offer to business class for an extra £90. Sounds a lot at first, but for that 90 I get access to the BA airport lounge, which is free bar and hot food and comfy chairs (we once arrived at the airport 3 hours earlier than needed JUST to get the food and drink and comfort after a bad week). But most inportantly, the luggage allowance goes up to 2 x 32 kgs cases per person. Our clothes can go into one case and the walk on, so I get 98 kgs for toys.
But 32 kg is the maximum single case weight, any thing heavier has to go to freight handling (i.e. bloody expensive)

Sadly, now that its winter, BA have dropped a couple flights a week, all the planes are now 3/4 and more full, and my upgrade offer on this last run was £299 each. Not on my pension matey because thats more than the cattle class price again. I'm unlikely to get a good offer untill july next year

This Fox was sold to me sight unseen on a dealers recommendations (I know, stupid me) but as I had zero woodworking experience and a limited startup budget, i bought it. The only support offered from anyone has been "send it back we'll replace it". It would cost me more to send it back than it cost me to buy, and all I would get would be another piece of junk that I would have to ship out here all over again, hence the upgrade shopping.

I did a bit of window shopping, and axminster say that they can deliver that £500 machine to me here for £93. Now THATS a bargain!

Problem is, I'm still finding bad reviews about it, and I really dont want to start all over again mending something that shouldnt need mending.'

 

[woodfarmer]

I have a Fox bandsaw F28-194B also. It is absolute ShXt. To get it working I had to replace all of the ball bearing guides as 4 of the six came seized. Replaced 3 door switches now wired out. The entire rise and fall mechanism hangs on by 1/6 of the lip of a coach bolt head running off an aluminium extrusion. it is in my view so flimsy as to not be fit for purpose. I am in the midst of making a completely new rise and fall mechanism to mount outside the wheel enclosure,. This project is being delayed due to my recent heart attack. But I will post details when it is finished.
The frame is neither straight or true and wont allow the band to run top to bottom with using the blade guides to offset the band. (10 minutes with a 9 inch angle grinder fixed that).

be careful working inside the wheel enclosure, the bare ends behind the switches are still live even with the no volts switch off. PULL THE PLUG.

 

[sunnybob]

Woodfarmer; sadly we are not alone, I've found many similar stories of Fox. If any one wants to start a class action for suing them for selling unfit and dangerous goods, count me in. All of my woes have have been photo documented (and the inadequate replies to my complaints.)
But do yourself one favour, re wire those door cut outs into the motor system, thats cutting off your nose to spite your face.

 

[hammer n nails]

Agree the fox saw is utter rubbish I will not ever buy a tool that is badged fox got rid of my bandsaw and got a metabo with a tuff saw blade the fox one had a tuff saw blade that I put in but the machine was so underpowered it did not help much I brought the fox one brand new

 

[sunnybob]

You cant believe this, its almost funny;
While in the uk I bought two new rubber tyres for it as one snapped at the end of november.
I've just spent all morning sorting out the wheel adjustment.
Opened the packet and yes, I think youve guessed it. They sent the WRONG tyres!!!!!
Too wide, too thick, and 5" too short.
What is wrong with this company??????

 

[woodfarmer]

Woodfarmer; sadly we are not alone, I've found many similar stories of Fox. If any one wants to start a class action for suing them for selling unfit and dangerous goods, count me in. All of my woes have have been photo documented (and the inadequate replies to my complaints.)
But do yourself one favour, re wire those door cut outs into the motor system, thats cutting off your nose to spite your face.

Not sure what you mean the back of the switches are live. With no volts off from the factory.

 

[sunnybob]

from your description "now wired out" that means you have removed those switches from the circuit.
If so, that machine can start with both doors open.

Doesnt matter how careful you are, a mistake by anybody while your hand was in there would cost you a lot more than any aggravation with their operation.

I was once working on a machine that I had turned off at the wall switch only, and with my hands inside it, it suddenly came to life. I was very very lucky that day. A woman had walked into the room, and without consulting anybody, had just turned the wall switch back on. Since that day, I'm a belt and braces man.
If I have read your description wrongly, then thats fine.