Laminating timber

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petrujenac

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Hi. I've got a lot of questions omniscient Google can't answer. I hope you guys can help me out. There are a few garden projects I want to complete this spring, including a pergola, a shed, a new sofa and more. I can source the timber for free, which would ease the stress on my pocket (the current prices are a sad joke,) but the downside is that it doesn't come in the right dimensions. It's mainly 70x70x1200 and 40x90x1200 rough sawn spruce so the biggest problem is the lengh. My idea is to laminate them in order to have longer/wider/thicker timber. I've made some samples already, to see how it is. I've flattened two sides on p/t then glued them using titebond 3 and everbuild 502, simple 90deg and 45deg cuts for end grain. I've attached some pictures below. So my concerns are:
- how weak would it be compared to regular timber from any shop?
- is there a better way to do it, if so, how?
- what would be the maximum acceptable difference (if there is) in moisture levels? Like bits with 14 and 12 or 11.5 moisture levels glued together.
- how many clamps would be enough per metre?
- are there other things I need to consider?
Thank you very much for your answers! PXL_20220320_093750065.jpgPXL_20220320_093827745.jpg
 
You want to use scalf joints 8/1 minimum 12/1 better.

Look at scalf joints for mast making / boat building.

Don't put joints in the same place for each layer.

Cheers James
 
You want to use scalf joints 8/1 minimum 12/1 better.

Look at scalf joints for mast making / boat building.

Don't put joints in the same place for each layer.

Cheers James
Does that mean that I have to cut an angle of minimum 540mm out of a 70mm thick timber? My makita tracksaw would be of no use then...
All joints are staggered (each 600mm), as the picture suggests.
Thanks
 
Yes for the strength to be maintained.
If your staggering them and the load isn't too onerous you could use 6/1 ratio....
You could go down 2" and the finish off with a hand saw and plane....
 
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