Laminate trimming

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Digizz

Established Member
Joined
22 Jan 2004
Messages
384
Reaction score
0
Location
Oxfordshire
I'm just about to embark on a laminate trimming exercise for the first time - laminate MDF and Ply.

I have a huge DeWalt router that's obviously not too good for trimming the iron-on laminate edging so want to buy something that will do the job ver acurately.

Should I go for something like a Trend T3/T2 or just a cheap hand held trimmer like the Dakote double edged trimmer at £17 odd?

I guess the Trend router will give me more options for smaller routing jobs where the DeWalt is too cumbersome?

Thanks!!!
 
I use my Trend T5 for this as the base is much larger than the T3 a when trimming, one has at least half of the base overhanging the work

I use the T3 mainly for cutting slots for inlays

T5 is really quite light and small (and quiet) and would be a nice addition to any workshop :wink:
 
I forgot - I also have a Dremmel but without router base - is this worth exploring or are they no good for this kind of work?
 
I have a couple of Dremmels (with router base and router table) and wouldn't dream of using them for this sort of work. My preference is for a veneer saw (not practical for most woodworkers) but failing that I'd try a laminate trimming bit in my T9.

Gill
 
Would the T9 be too cumbersome though?

I think my big, chunky DeWalt would be too indelicate on 15-19mm edges???
 
Trimming edges with a machine is very difficult due to the problem of keeping the machine at right angles to the edge. When I used to trim the laminate on worktop edges I used a Makita trimmer to take off most of the excess, and a sharp stnley blade to trim it flush
John
 
I've used my Dewalt 625 and a Freud flush trim bit (bottom bearing) to trim laminate from the face of 19mm MDF and got good results - obviously the edge is harder! On my first couple of sides I did let the router tip in a couple of places and so dug out a little chunk, but with concentration it worked really well.

In my case I didn't care too much about that - I'm just making a powertool bench.

I assume you've got several equally sized panels to edge, so why not try clamping two together with a couple of 2x4s in between (allowing the router bit to run down either side of each edge). When stood up that should give you enough width to keep the router stable and vertical.

(hope I've explained that clearly - the router would rest on the two spaced edges)

Make one of these large bases out of some scrap ply and it will be even easier: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... 2&recno=32

Main thing is to have a really sharp bit - well worth buying a new one to make sure the bearing diameter matches the blades exactly.

Of course if you're just trying to justify a new tool purchase, disregard everthing I've said - it's clearly an impossible job without that new router... :D

ciao

Ian
 
So if i want to go manual :wink: which trimmer should i use to trim back the edgebanding :?:

the wife wants a contrasting colour on the book shelves in the study
 
Mcluma":3c3mflrc said:
So if i want to go manual :wink: which trimmer should i use to trim back the edgebanding :?:
A smooth cut file is often recommended; never tried it, but fwiw.

Cheers, Alf
 
Mcluma":36f7mxel said:
So if i want to go manual :wink: which trimmer should i use to trim back the edgebanding :?:

the wife wants a contrasting colour on the book shelves in the study

Is this a man-made edge binding, such as melamine etc. If it is then you will not do better than a NEW Stanley knife blade(held in the fingers, not a stanley knife), held so that the bevel of the blade rests on the face of the shelf. Cut INTO the edge with a series of slices as you move along the shelf. You will soon get the knack. Finish with some wet and dry double-sided-taped to a flat block of wood, held at a very shallow angle to the face

If it's a wood binding this method wont work as the blade will follow the grain

John
 
I've used a file as suggested by Alf, when I can find one or the edge of a chisel back.

Noel
 
If it was veneer, a scalpel blade, run against the grain, is perfect. Much, much sharper than a Stanley knife blade. But its not. So I'm OT, sorry.
 
This is exactly what i was looking for. perfect :p

now, did axminster do also something like this :?:

vertex.jpg
 
Back
Top