Kregg k5 and 18mm plywood

[Wimbledon]

Hi there

is there anyone here who uses a kregg k5 jig to screw 18mm plywood together? I am failing miserably and the internet is giving conflicting advice.Can anyone tell me exactly what the settings should be and the screw size as I’ve just spent days ruining plywood and this is literally doing my head in. TIA

 

[MikeK]

I don't have the K5, but I have the R3, K4, and the Foreman and used them extensively on 19mm plywood. The setup is slightly different between mine and the K5, but the principle is the same. For 18mm or 19mm plywood, use the 1-1/4 inch coarse screws and the Kreg settings for 3/4-inch thickness stock when you set up your K5. It is important to ensure the point of the drill does not penetrate the stock when you drill the holes. The coarse screws are recommended for soft woods and sheet goods, such as plywood and MDF.

Here is a video showing the setup of the K5 for 3/4-inch stock.

 

[Wimbledon]

Hi Mike - just saw this thank you so much for taking the time to help me here . I’ll try that out

 

[Wimbledon]

Just wanted one quick question - what do you mean by the stock? Thanks

 

[MikeK]

Just wanted one quick question - what do you mean by the stock? Thanks

By stock, I meant anything you are drilling that is clamped into the K5.

 

[Wimbledon]

Thanks it’s just that no matter what I do the screw isn’t joining the wood - I’ve been practising on a bit of plywood and it’s just coming out the other side. This is with 19mm wood thickness settings and 1 1/4 inch screws . I’ve got the clamps holding everything in place and I’m getting nowhere . Don’t suppose you can identify what I’m doing wrong could you?

 

[MikeK]

You're almost there, but you have the board with the pocket holes and screws turned the wrong way. For corner joints, like yours, the screws must be on the outside so they enter the mating board away from the edge. Also, it looks like you have at least one pocket hole too deep because the screw extended too far.

Here is an example of what a corner should look like with pocket holes. There is no chance for the screws to break out from the edge because I angled them towards the center of the board.

This is a drawer that will eventually have a drawer face attached and the pocket holes won't be visible. They will remain visible on the back side of the drawer, but no one will notice.

 

[Wimbledon]

Mike thank you. I didn’t even consider this as I assumed all pocket holes have to be on the inside. I’m trying to attempt kitchen units but I will just mix the sawdust with glue and plug and paint them over.

 

[MikeK]

I haven't tried this method yet, but if you have access to 3/8-inch dowel and a bandsaw, you can make your own plugs.

 

[Spectric]

You also must get the block set correctly in the jig, this determines the point of entry and the exit point for the screw. Raising it moves the hole further out and lowering it will bring it towards the entry side. Once set along with the collar on your drill then just put the drill into the jig and hold your workpiece next to it and you can see the placement of the pocket hole.

 

[Gardener]

Also lower your torque setting if using a cordless driver
so you don’t drive the screws in too far