Knife \ Pivot hinge

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SteveF

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looking for a UK supplier of polished Brass
any suggestions please

need to be approx 8mm wide

Steve
 
Are your knife hinges the straight ones (for where the door is the full width of the cabinet and sits in front of the sides), or the cranked ones (for where the door is inset between the cabinet sides)?

The straight ones are fairly easy to fit, but everyone seems to have their own method of fitting the cranked ones, I use the jig method which goes along these lines,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UtvCT2_fPg

With either style of hinge the gap between the two leaves is the gap you want all around the door, so shim that to get the exact measurement. The other thing is be careful when fitting the screws not to nudge the hinge out of position, take care to drill the pilot hole dead centre.
 
Hi Custard

these are straight not offset
they are also far from intended use :oops:
my box if i ever get done will have a "flap" that covers the front of the drawers, that is hinged from the side pillars, so will form a sort of writing desk idea
plan is for the lid to entrap the flap (with brass pins) to lock it all together
none of this will make sense until I attempt it sorry
I really appreciate all the help you are giving, but I am also going out of a limb of what seems written about or acceptable

as an example I will be cutting my hinge recess for the lid on the box before assembly
totally wrong approach but it means I dont have to do a climb cut on router table, which I am not confident with
I would rather wreck the box than my digits

Steve
 
Hi Steve, really interested in your idea as for whatever reason boxes are my thing.
Can you post a diagram or sketch of your idea because it sounds really interesting?
In terms of climb cutting on a router table, it isn't that bad provided you have a really good grip on your workpiece.
If your workpiece is large enough then you can do it freehand, otherwise just make a jig with toggle clamps (which you can re-use).
 
SteveF":26hdotw4 said:
I have little option of a drawing,it is in my head sadly
this is my inspiration
http://www.bexfield.co.uk/02/d706.htm
i want to hinge from bottom rather than sides with a full width\height flap that is drilled out to accommodate the drawer knobs

Steve

Wow! And I mean "WOW!".

Full credit to you for tackling such an amazing project, I'm happy to help any way I can. If you need 32x32 Mahogany leg stock for example send me a PM and I'll sort something out for you.

Incidentally, I used to work just around the corner from Daniel Bexfield, I know his shop well.
 
My hinges have arrived and are a good match for my lid hinges
whilst I sit back from this project for a bit I have a question
my plan for them is for a lift up "flap" to enclose the front of my box, with the lock fitted into top of flap and lid
when I fold this down to reveal drawers, I want to slide this under my bottom drawer towards rear of box
so I was going to screw the hinge to flap and run a rebate in my bottom drawer runner so the mating hinge can slide back into box
does this make sense?
do I need to run a T groove and attach a piece of chopping board to run in groove? or just a rebate and hope the hinge tracks ok?
should I tilt the rebate down slightly so gravity helps with the sliding?

Steve
 
Hands up, I've never actually made a sliding fall of the type you're proposing. I have however restored a few items that had them, to the best of my recollection they always had a fairly substantial pin running in a metal track. Off the top of my head I can't ever recall seeing one where the pin or hingeing mechanism ran in a groove worked directly into the carcass timber? I suspect there might be a very good reason for that.

Another design I've seen has the fall secured by pins at one end (engaging into corresponding sockets) and a cabinet lock at the other, this is a simpler arrangement that doesn't have hinges at all, there's a compartment for storing the loose fall when it's not erected, and that's about it.

I have fitted a fair few knife hinges so I'm reasonably familiar with the Brusso straight knife hinges. They're beautifully made, but they really do need to have both halves firmly screwed in place in order to operate smoothly, I suspect having one half "floating" in a groove would make for a sloppy fitting, in which there's every chance the two halves of the hinge would come apart.

My inclination would be to have the fall properly hinged with no "sliding" facility. Maybe you could line it internally with green baize, in effect providing a shelf for polishing the cutlery? If you think the fall is just too large and clumsy then maybe there's a way of using a piano hinge halfway up the fall, so that it could be folded in half and take up less room?

I don't want to slow you down, but personally I won't commence even fairly simple projects without a full detailed plan or rod plus a full cutting list. I suggest that before moving on any further you pause and draw up a fully detailed and fully dimensioned plan for the entire project, one that includes all the joinery details and every dimension. I appreciate it's a giant faff, but as I often say, cabinet making is a game where the tortoise always beats the hare! So in the long run these precautions will speed you up rather than slow you down.
 
Hi Custard

I have my sketch book to hand, I think I should have started with it :oops:
just because you have not seen doesn't mean it can't be done, but the folding option or suede will be plan b
I will mock up my idea in mdf, as you state there is probably a good reason it is not done
it is just a hobby, so time is of no importance
I often wondered how the sliding fall worked so thankyou for explanation

Steve
 
custard":x0ay7m1p said:
My inclination would be to have the fall properly hinged with no "sliding" facility. Maybe you could line it internally with green baize, in effect providing a shelf for polishing the cutlery? If you think the fall is just too large and clumsy then maybe there's a way of using a piano hinge halfway up the fall, so that it could be folded in half and take up less room?

would a card table hinge(top mounted) be suitable?
I have looked at solid brass piano hinges and the quality seems to be poor

Steve
 
SteveF":2domc9ba said:
custard":2domc9ba said:
My inclination would be to have the fall properly hinged with no "sliding" facility. Maybe you could line it internally with green baize, in effect providing a shelf for polishing the cutlery? If you think the fall is just too large and clumsy then maybe there's a way of using a piano hinge halfway up the fall, so that it could be folded in half and take up less room?

would a card table hinge(top mounted) be suitable?
I have looked at solid brass piano hinges and the quality seems to be poor

Steve

The solid brass piano hinges (not the plated brass ones) from Ironmongery Direct are reasonable quality,

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/bro ... t_index=18

I've bought in slightly better ones from a couple of the specialist US suppliers but with customs and shipping it gets expensive. All piano hinges look worse when you look at them loose, and better once they're fitted.

The card table hinges you suggested might work, but they'd have to be recessed into the sides of the fall, if they stood proud they'd leave a gap. The other question about card table hinges is, are they 90 degree hinges (like butler tray hinges) or 180 degrees? Off hand I'm not sure. Horton are a good source for quality specialist cabinet hinges,

http://www.horton-brasses.com/butlertrayand-1.asp
 
custard":2uc8ssxh said:
SteveF":2uc8ssxh said:
custard":2uc8ssxh said:
My inclination would be to have the fall properly hinged with no "sliding" facility. Maybe you could line it internally with green baize, in effect providing a shelf for polishing the cutlery? If you think the fall is just too large and clumsy then maybe there's a way of using a piano hinge halfway up the fall, so that it could be folded in half and take up less room?

would a card table hinge(top mounted) be suitable?
I have looked at solid brass piano hinges and the quality seems to be poor

Steve

The solid brass piano hinges (not the plated brass ones) from Ironmongery Direct are reasonable quality,

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/bro ... t_index=18


I've bought in slightly better ones from a couple of the specialist US suppliers but with customs and shipping it gets expensive. All piano hinges look worse when you look at them loose, and better once they're fitted.

The card table hinges you suggested might work, but they'd have to be recessed into the sides of the fall, if they stood proud they'd leave a gap. The other question about card table hinges is, are they 90 degree hinges (like butler tray hinges) or 180 degrees? Off hand I'm not sure. Horton are a good source for quality specialist cabinet hinges,

http://www.horton-brasses.com/butlertrayand-1.asp

I was thinking of these as I have a few "original" ones
https://www.seaware.co.uk/card-table-hi ... 2-x-3.html

but I will look at the link you sent

Steve
 
They look pretty good Steve, the right scale for your project and appear to be quality hinges. Check the screw length against the fall thickness, but they may be all you need.
 

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