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Kity TS user needs some advice

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A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi everybody,

Just registered, having read a few posts and realised that you guys and girls have probably forgotten more about woodworking than I will ever know.

So I'm hoping you can help me with a few problems with my Kity 419 TS...

1. Am I right in thinking that you can't adjust the position of the blade w.r.t. the mitre gauge slot? I seem to have a slight 'toe-in' on my blade - the front of the blade is closer to the fence than the back of the blade. This causes the back of the blade to catch and mark the wood on the left as I push it through. (the fence is parallel with the slot)

2. How do keep the cross cut sledge fence square to the blade? It seems to move about a bit. Is there a clever way of setting it up?

3. Do any of you fellow Kity users get a strange noise from time to time? Occasionally instead of the usual Kity purr, it sounds more like a cement mixer being cleaned up - you know when they have a few bricks tumbling around inside. OK slight exaggeration, but when it's in this mood turning the blade by hand gives a clonk in a few places. So I think bearing knocking perhaps, but then it will run for a few more days and not make the noise

Any insights would be really appreciated

W
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi W

I too own the 419

1. I believe you can adjust this at the mounting screws for the shaft assembly although I have not tried it on the Kity I have carried this procedure out on other table saws in the past.

2 Not really sure what you are asking here. Are you referring to the sliding table or mitre guage? The slidng table has been pretty good on mine since day one. I set it up with a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) for dead square to the table and all has been great since. I do find that dirt builds up along the track after a few weeks and regualrly give the track sides a wipe over.

If the mitre guage is the problem, then is is probably due to a slight lateral movement across the slot. The kity has the tightest fitting mitre guage i have ever seen but I still knocked a couple of dents in the top of the bar near the edge to remove the very tiny play I saw there. This works very well and the mitre is nice and accurate now.

3 Sorry, I have never had anything other than the purr in the last 10 months of use.

If you could elaborate on item 2 I'll try to help
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks for the speedy reply Tony,

1. The mounting screws don't seem to have any adjustment beyond the normal bolt-to-hole tolerance, which I have taken up as far as I can.

2. It's the sliding table I'm having trouble with. Could you describe how you squared yours up using the DTI?

3. I'm going to have to build up the courage to strip it down one weekend and try and find out why it's clonking. Trouble is I would rather be using it than fixing it!

Thanks

W

ps Have you solved the problem of dust extraction from your saw? On a good day I pick up less than half of the dust, the rest gets thrown out the front or drops down to the stand where it builds up.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
HI Wulfric

I clamped the DTI to the sliding table fence and extended the fence out to the mitre slot and then simply moved the sliding table along and watched the deflection. I can't remember the actual deviations but I adjusted until they were small and insignificant (less than 0.2mm I think)I tightened every thing up and double checked.

THer dust collection is a pain.

I have a hose form the rear take off point and this runs under the saw to a plywood base I fitted to the cabinet.
I connect the extractor to the actual cabinet bottom rather than the rear extractor take-off point. I sealed around the rear take-off with a piece of ply that moves with the tilt but keeps the large hole at the rear sealed.

I need to fit a 'T' piece under the saw to connect the rear take-off and my cabinet take off to the extrator rather than going throught the cabinet alone. I have the T piece but no time :(

The mod as it is makes dust collection about 90% better
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
suspect the cement mixer noise is the guard over the fan-end of the motor spindle being loose and contacting with the fan...does it sometimes on my bestcombi. Never felt brave enough or strong enough to tip it over and fix it....

can't comment on the toe-in adjustment for the same reason, but interested to know how you get on

m
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Tony,

You have convinced me that I need to get a DTI to set the sliding carriage up square. How do you set up your sliding carriage fence to get it square to the line of motion?

The dust modifications you have made seem logical, what kind of dust extractor system are you using?

MP,

I hadn't thought about the fan-end of the motor, it's worth a look but it seems to me that the noise on mine is coming from the blade end.

Thanks for your help

W
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
wulfric":yvw82ixb said:
Tony,

You have convinced me that I need to get a DTI to set the sliding carriage up square. How do you set up your sliding carriage fence to get it square to the line of motion?

The dust modifications you have made seem logical, what kind of dust extractor system are you using?


W
Hi W

You don't need a DTI. You can clamp a ruler in place so that it touches the slot at one end and then run the table along it's guide. If it is further away at one end than the other then make an adjustment and try again.
DTI is better and cheap from machinemart

I set the sliding table fence against a large engineers square held across the front and rear teeth of the blade.

My extractor is from Charnwood as they are only 5 miles down the raod from me
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Tony,

You're right I don't need a DTI but it's a fun toy to have! I just checked ebay and they are not expensive - when you consider the time and wood I have exhausted trying to get the Kity squared up!!

I use a large square as well on the sliding table fence, but I'm squaring it to the mitre gauge slot and as I mentioned earlier my blade is not square to the slot - could be where I'm going wrong.

Cheers

Wulf
 

Chris Knight

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Wulfric,

If by a "large square" you mean something like a framing square, beware! These things are rarely accurate out of the box and especially not if they have been dropped at any time. They can easily be made accurate with a well judged centre punch but do check it before relying on it.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
What Chris just said. Plus avoid ebay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hate and loathing are now eminating from me towards bay :twisted:

Machinemart DTI's are very reasonably priced and I bought a very useful magntic base for it too :wink:
 

Dewy

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At work when lining the components up prior to milling them we used a 'sticky pin' which was the handle of a needle file ground to a (60°approx)point and stuck in a small ball of plasticene.
For lining a blade up to a sliding carriage the same principle could be used with a longer pin stuck to the carriage while it's slid along.
If you just leave enough room for it not to touch and the gap widens you know to adjust the blade accordingly.
If the pin moves because it is touching then the blade needs adjusting the opposite way.
The sticky pin is also used to make sure a table is square on a pillar drill or similar by rotating the quill with the pin stuck to it.
A clock is more accurate but in 30 years as a toolmaker a sticky pin has never been more than a couple of thou out.
 

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