Kity 636 advice

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Steve Q

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21 May 2022
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Location
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Hi All,
I have been given a Kity 636 planer which has been in storage for a good number of years. I am having a problem with it switching it self off when starting to plane a piece of timber, when not planing it happily works fine and does not switch itself off. Could this be down to the switch /contactor?
I am new to the forum so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

kind regards
Steve
 
Quite likely the DOL starter. try inching up the overload current just a little (say 20%) and see if that fixes it but be careful about setting it too high just to get is working as it might be masking a motor problem. Get someone to measure the motor current during planing and see how that related to the full load current marked on the motor.
I'm assuming the knives are good and sharp and you are not trying to take too much of in a single cut.
 
Quite likely the DOL starter. try inching up the overload current just a little (say 20%) and see if that fixes it but be careful about setting it too high just to get is working as it might be masking a motor problem. Get someone to measure the motor current during planing and see how that related to the full load current marked on the motor.
I'm assuming the knives are good and sharp and you are not trying to take too much of in a single cut.
Thank you,
Knives are brand new and currently barely skimming the wood which is why I am confused as to what would cause it. I would not know how to adjust the DOL starter, is this something that the manual would cover or could this be a job for a electrician? I did wonder if it could have been caused by damp in the switch but I do not know enough to be able to tell and it would be a shame not to be able to get it working again as it has not done a great deal of work as it was gifted to me by a relative.
Steve
 
Have a look at my induction motor paper page 15 fig 13. This shows a lever type others my have a rotary dial adjustment.
Thanks for the reply,
Just as a thought if I cannot get this going and decide what to replace it with what would you recommend? Of the same or similar spec.
 
The DOL overload relay is a protective device for the motor as it senses the current drawn and switches off when a limit is exceeded. It would be folly just to change the DOL before understanding the problem. This is why I said measure the current and compare with the full load current on the motor plate.
Analyse the problem, understand what is happening only then decide on the action based on knowledge not random shots in the dark.
 
Having spent a good couple of hours with an electrician friend last night looking at this it would appear that the switch has had it due to corrosion and is not repairable. So I am going to try and find a replacement switch but I think it is unlikely due to the age of the machine that I am going to find one, unless I can find a similar one that works I will have to scrap it or sell for spares.
Thanks for your help
Steve
 
DOL ( direct on line ) starters usually consist of a contactor and an overload relay.
It sounds like when unloaded, all is ok - but when you plane ( and load the motor )
So, its quite possible that the overload current is set a little low - easily fixed.
The contactor is usually mounted above the overload. On the overload relay there is usually a small rotary adjustment which is simply turned with a screwdriver to change the overload current.
As myfordman suggests - check the motor current rating and go just a small amount above the motor current _ say, 20 %
If this does not fix the issue there are a couple of simple checks to determin the source of the problem
Is this a single phase or three phase motor ?
Is the circuit you run from ELCB ( earth leakage circuit breaker ) protected ?
Then you can check the phase resistances across each of the three phases ( if 415 volt )
And, if not ELCB protected - you might rum a check of the winding insulation ( Mega )
If you need any help - please let me know the motor voltage and Hp
Good luck
 
Having spent a good couple of hours with an electrician friend last night looking at this it would appear that the switch has had it due to corrosion and is not repairable. So I am going to try and find a replacement switch but I think it is unlikely due to the age of the machine that I am going to find one, unless I can find a similar one that works I will have to scrap it or sell for spares.
Thanks for your help
Steve
Scrap a machine because of a suspect switch ?
You have to be kidding !
I think you need to get some more informed advice
Either replace the contactor ( switch ) or replace / rewind the motor if defective.
It would be foolish just to dump the motor based on your descriptions of the problem
 
Scrap a machine because of a suspect switch ?
You have to be kidding !
I think you need to get some more informed advice
Either replace the contactor ( switch ) or replace / rewind the motor if defective.
It would be foolish just to dump the motor based on your descriptions of the problem
I would agree but as I am not an electrician I have to go by what was found. I am told by dave at DB Keighley, as I viewed a different post that these switches are no longer available due to the age of the machine. So unless some one can point me in the direction of where I can get one then I guess I do not have much choice unless I can find a similar switch that would work in place of the original.
 
Motor switches will be available for as long as we wish to switch on motors. The actual model of switch you have may be obsolete but you can get something similar to do the job.
Just make sure that the current rating of the motor is nicely in the centre of the range of the thermal overload switch that you buy and that the contactor coil is designed for 240v operation (even if the switch says it is good for 415v)
My current favoured supplier is Dol starter 1 phase 230v or 3 phase 400volt coil, Electric motor overload fitted | eBay
you can choose which overload switch rating you need.
 
Motor switches will be available for as long as we wish to switch on motors. The actual model of switch you have may be obsolete but you can get something similar to do the job.
Just make sure that the current rating of the motor is nicely in the centre of the range of the thermal overload switch that you buy and that the contactor coil is designed for 240v operation (even if the switch says it is good for 415v)
My current favoured supplier is Dol starter 1 phase 230v or 3 phase 400volt coil, Electric motor overload fitted | eBay
you can choose which overload switch rating you need.
Thank you for this much appreciated, as my machine is single phase what range of overload would you recommend as it currently comes up with 9 to 13amp overload is this fine or do I go with a higher rating?
Regards Steve
 
Thank you for this much appreciated, as my machine is single phase what range of overload would you recommend as it currently comes up with 9 to 13amp overload is this fine or do I go with a higher rating?
Regards Steve
Sorry but I know nothing about this type of electrics
 
As I have already stated, Read the max current from the motor plate and choose an overload that spans that range.
Think! You have the motor in front of you and I don’t.
 
As I have already stated, Read the max current from the motor plate and choose an overload that spans that range.
Think! You have the motor in front of you and I don’t.
As I have already said I know nothing on electrics having trained as a cabinet maker and retiring as a senior construction manager having built everything from hospitals ,civils, banks ,police stations etc which I could go on and on in the places I have worked along with countries I have worked in. When it comes to electrics I pay people to sort it out!!!
I have tried to upload a picture of the mo
tor plate but it is to big but if I have read it correctly volts 240, amps 6.9 as stamped on the plate.
 
just to say
an old electrician told me to check the wiring terminal screws once a year on everything...
he wasn't wrong....
my Bridgeport tends to be the worst culprit for that.....
Along with a new timing belt on my T4 the above job and a few more are a treat to myself on
New Years day.....I think it's a great way to start the year.....
plus around that time of year if the weather is good every machine is removed from the w/shop and the floor is made spotless....
yes I'm very sad.....hahaha...
 
just to say
an old electrician told me to check the wiring terminal screws once a year on everything...
he wasn't wrong....
my Bridgeport tends to be the worst culprit for that.....
Along with a new timing belt on my T4 the above job and a few more are a treat to myself on
New Years day.....I think it's a great way to start the year.....
plus around that time of year if the weather is good every machine is removed from the w/shop and the floor is made spotless....
yes I'm very sad.....hahaha...
I am somewhat like you, in as much all of my tools get a thougher going over and if I am honest a lot of my tools tend to be used once in the year as I have favourites I like to use more than the rest. I good tip thanks clogs. A lot of the machine tools I have , have been in storage for a number of years for example the planer which was given to me when I qualified and was used for about 4 years on and off before I came off the tools due to running various projects.
About 18 years ago I wanted to give something back so volunteered on a number of Heritage jobs namely Fort Amherst then about 9 months ago I started at Chatham Historic Dockyard on the conservation of HMS Gannet, HMS Ocelot, and HMS Cavalier along with conservation of the last working Georgian ropery.
 
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