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Kity 419 Sliding Carriage

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Gill

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How do you adjust the Kity 419 sliding carriage so that it is level with the table? Mine tilts down slightly.

Gill
 

dedee

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Gill,
Are you sure that the two support bars that hold the wide alloy track are both straight and true? If they are bent then I would suggest they should be replaced.

I cannot recall (from the office here) if the four rollers that the sliding piece are connected to can be adjusted - I think not.

FWIW mine went together without a hitch but I do remember replacing the toggle clamps with wing nuts - but I cannot remember why :oops:

I know that squaring up that wide alloy track bit with the table was the only fiddly job and as I take mine off when not in use I do that job quite often.

Andy
 
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dedee":3fj1222d said:
I cannot recall (from the office here) if the four rollers that the sliding piece are connected to can be adjusted - I think not.


Andy
I have to agree with this from memory. Ther eis no adjustment.

I to suspect that the support bars are the issue.

The track needs careful setup when bolting together and all should be OK. I think I spaced the support bars where they mount under the table though. WIll check tonight
 

Gill

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The actual carriage doesn't look as if it can be adjusted but I was wondering if the support bars could be. The bolts that secure the bars to the centre of the saw table have knurled nuts that seem to be suitable for raising and lowering but I can't work out how to set them.

Sorry if my description isn't very clear; I'm not very familiar with nuts and bolts.

Gill
 

dedee

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Gill, I cannot remember how the bars were attached to my table but I would guess as Tony suggest that perphaps you can add a spacer of some sort - ie a thin washer between the table and the bar. This would result in the other end of the bar rasing up slightly. Which way is your tilt?

Andy
 
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Anonymous

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Hi Gill,

IIRC, there are a few very thin washers supplied with the carriage (about 10/12mm diameter) and these are used to shim the carriage plate (aluminium extrusion) up flush, or very slightly above the table surface if needed.
It's a bit fiddly as they are awkward to get in position if all four bolting points for the plate to the steel supports need shimming. (The plate sits to the supports with Bristol levers as bolts on mine if I remember)
It's worth it though, mine is still perfect from day one.

Andy
 

stuartpaul

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Gill,

Having not long ago set mine up the answer is in the knurled nuts. They are used to 'adjust' the relative height of the bars leading to a level extension table.

The drawings accompanying the instructions just about got me through the process although it was a bit trial and error!!

If it helps I'd be happy to try and take some photos and forward them. Let me know.

Stuart
 

stuartpaul

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Ended up swapping TS2010 for the Kity 419. As both were supplied by NMA this was a relatively painless exercise (longish wait though). I was extremely disappointed with the TS2010 build quality and it was admitted to me that it isn't German built but Far Eastern so that probably explains it. May want to factor this into your considerations.

Have to say having now had it set up for a while that I think the 419 is more 'heavy duty' in a light duty sort of way (if you get what I mean!!). Very pleased with it.

As always it pays to have a look and a play with as many as you can and then make your personal choice which may be different to someone elses.
 

cambournepete

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Sawdust Producer":11d71rnd said:
I would like to know the outcome as I am seriously looking at these small tablesaws i.e. eb2000 schep2010 kit419
stuartpaul":11d71rnd said:
Have to say having now had it set up for a while that I think the 419 is more 'heavy duty' in a light duty sort of way (if you get what I mean!!).
FWIW at the last Yandles I thought the Kity was far more solid and better put together than either the Scheppach or E-B. What Stuart says is spot on.
 

Jake

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I think Scheppach were always pretty upfront about about the 2010 being Chinawanese built. When they went to CI, they said they couldn't afford to do cast iron and german assembly at that price level.
 

Newbie_Neil

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Hi Jake

Jake":36u5rvlb said:
I think Scheppach were always pretty upfront about about the 2010 being Chinawanese built.
Is this NMA we're talking about here? Teeth and pulling comes to mind.

Cheers
Neil
 

llangatwgnedd

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Thanks Stuart
I belive Yandles has a show in September when I'm off work and will have a look at all three and make a purchase.
What puts me off the eb 2000 is the brush motor and with the kity 419 is the poor dust extration ( I belive)
 

Gill

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Steve Maskery":3m3prpyb said:
You... you..
you GIRL you!

:D
:D

At least I'm trying!

Just a note to thank everyone for all the helpful advice. I'm waiting for some photographs of a Kity 419 that's been set up properly, then I'll decide how to proceed. As I said, I'm not God's gift to engineering and when it comes to assembling tools, I'm often found wanting. It's great to know that there are so many helpful people on this forum (and Steve Maskery :p :) ) who I can turn to when things don't quite turn out according to plan.

As for the dust extraction - I can think of much more important reasons for deciding against a saw. The Kity gives a clean, accurate cut and that was of great importance to me in choosing the saw, together with its sturdiness.

Gill
 

Steve Maskery

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Hi Gill
I did wonder whether I should post that! Would she be offended? Then I thought, Nah, she's a game gal! :) Glad I was right!

FWIW I had exactly the same problem on an EB Spindle moulder several years ago. The sliding table was not in the same plane as the main table, and there was no adjustment. I bought it from a local independent company (sadly no more) and they were brill. No argument, they sorted it out with the EB rep, and I ended up buying a Scheppach instead.

Hope you get it sorted.
Lots of love and kisses,
Steve
 
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