Kity 1619 reset switch

[seedfurniture85]

Hi,

I have had my Kity 1619 for just over a year now and yesterday whilst resawing some oak I managed to overloaded it. The motor stalled then I was unable to turn it on. I gave it some time to cool down (initially 2 minutes but then 3 hours) but no response. Does anyone know if it has an internal temp overload which I can just reset, I had a look and fear it doesn't?

I appreciate any help with this matter as I have just discovered how reliant I am on one piece of machinery!

Thanks,

Jamie

 

[pcb1962]

Hi,
I have had my Kity 1619 for just over a year now and yesterday whilst resawing some oak I managed to overloaded it. The motor stalled then I was unable to turn it on. I gave it some time to cool down (initially 2 minutes but then 3 hours) but no response. Does anyone know if it has an internal temp overload which I can just reset, I had a look and fear it doesn't?

Mine has no thermal cutout or reset switch. In fact mine is also dead at the moment, last time I went to use it it ran up for a second or two and then stopped dead. There is power as far as the motor so I'm hoping that it's just a capacitor needs replacing. Not looking forward to an uncomfortable evening crawling around on the floor sorting that out.

 

[Myfordman]

If it were just a capacitor problem, then the motor would buzz when switched on but would have little or no inclination to turn.

Sounds more link nvr switch problems. after noting the connections to this, bypass it completely as a test to apportion blame.

If you fit a new NVR, make sure it has a correctly rated thermal overload built in. Cheap compared to KITY motors which tend to be difficult to find equivalents for (they tend to have a higher power rating for a give frame size than other breeds so non KITY motors seldom fit without modification)

MM

 

[pcb1962]

If it were just a capacitor problem, then the motor would buzz when switched on but would have little or no inclination to turn.

Sounds more link nvr switch problems. after noting the connections to this, bypass it completely as a test to apportion blame.

If you fit a new NVR, make sure it has a correctly rated thermal overload built in. Cheap compared to KITY motors which tend to be difficult to find equivalents for (they tend to have a higher power rating for a give frame size than other breeds so non KITY motors seldom fit without modification)

MM

Thanks MM, I'll try bypassing the NVR, though my voltstick tells me there's power at the motor terminals when I hold the start button in. There's no buzzing from the motor when I do so.

 

[seedfurniture85]

Thanks guys!

I am almost certain it is now an NVR problem as I have power running to it and think its stops dead there. I may first replace the fuses in that unit and see whether that will solve the problem.

 

[Myfordman]

I've just opened up the connection box on a kity motor here
model LS80P 2 pole (3000 RPM) 2 hp 1500 watt

It has six leads plus earth going into the motor casing

Green - Yellow Start winding 7.5 ohms
Red - Black Run winding 2.5 ohms
Brown - Brown zero ohms presumed thermal cutout or could be a thermal fuse

Capacitor is 25 uF 360vac working

Your motors may or may not be similar and there is no set convention on colour codes in motor wiring

If you also have a thermal cut out, then what I said about motor buzzing when power applied is no longer the case.

You can bypass the thermal switch for testing purposes but this could only become a permanent solution if you fit a proper nvr starter with built in thermal overload FUSE Protection is NOT sufficient.

eg:http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/Industrial+Accessories/DOL+Starter+240V+3kW/d190/sd3080/p95364 and overload relay to match the motor current - on the motor plate.

Note my motor size:-

An 80 frame with 2hp power is most unusual, normally 2hp would be a 90 frame for 2 pole and 100 frame for 4 pole.

Frame size is defined as the height of the centre of the shaft above the mounting feet.

Good luck

MM

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Is your Kity a proper French made one? If so it has a couple of fuses in the switch, slow blow ceramic 20 Amp ones! I don't know about the later models.

Mike.

 

[Myfordman]

Hello,

Is your Kity a proper French made one? If so it has a couple of fuses in the switch, slow blow ceramic 20 Amp ones! I don't know about the later models.

Mike.

Fuses are a bit of a chocolate teapot when it comes to protecting motors. Truth is that they don't!
By the time a fuse is rated high enough to pass the starting current, it will pass more than enough "burning out the motor and let all the smoke out" current even slo blow types. The only real way is to use a thermal trip which is an extreme version of a slow blow device but fast enough to protect the windings.

MM

 

[pcb1962]

Hello,

Is your Kity a proper French made one? If so it has a couple of fuses in the switch, slow blow ceramic 20 Amp ones! I don't know about the later models.

Mike.

Thanks Mike, hadn't noticed those fuses below the NVR buttons. One of them fell apart in my hand as I removed it so hopefully that's the problem.
Not sure which of these to buy - can anyone advise please? http://goo.gl/PYiq50 (link will take you to cpc.farnell.com)
Thanks

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Is your Kity a proper French made one? If so it has a couple of fuses in the switch, slow blow ceramic 20 Amp ones! I don't know about the later models.

Mike.

Fuses are a bit of a chocolate teapot when it comes to protecting motors. Truth is that they don't!
By the time a fuse is rated high enough to pass the starting current, it will pass more than enough "burning out the motor and let all the smoke out" current even slo blow types. The only real way is to use a thermal trip which is an extreme version of a slow blow device but fast enough to protect the windings.

MM

Hello,

I agree, much better to have overload protection. But the French Kity 1619 does have fuses (I don't think the later Sheppach specified ones do, but I think they were numbered 619) and they have been known to blow! I had one do the same years ago, and the motor is still going now after a replacement fuse! I was naughty and tried to resaw some thick stuff, sans riving knife and the wood closed around the blade. Fuse blew. I knew better, but tried re sawing any way, now never take the riving knife off, and many here will testify always decry any tip or jig posted that requires the knife to be removed.

Anyway, it is unusual for a TS to have fused switches and there was no mention by the OP as to them being checked, (might have overlooked them) so I thought they would be worth mentioning. I hope if his is a fused saw, they have blown and motor is still OK.

Mike.

 

[woodbrains]

Thanks Mike, hadn't noticed those fuses below the NVR buttons. One of them fell apart in my hand as I removed it so hopefully that's the problem.
Not sure which of these to buy - can anyone advise please? http://goo.gl/PYiq50 (link will take you to cpc.farnell.com)
Thanks

Hello,

The ceramic time delay one at the bottom of the list should do.

http://cpc.farnell.com/_/mcf08c-20a/fus ... dp/FF01802

Mike.

 

[pcb1962]

Thanks Mike and MM, fuses replaced and saw back in business.
Stupid of me not to notice the fuse holders on the NVR I did check the one in the plug

 

[woodbrains]

Thanks Mike and MM, fuses replaced and saw back in business.
Stupid of me not to notice the fuse holders on the NVR I did check the one in the plug

Hello,

Fuse in the plug? If you are running the saw on a 13 A plug, you are doing well, it must be sweating a bit on start up!

I looked at an old user manual of the saw the other day, and it does state that there is a thermal cut out in the switch, too. I'm surprised they fit it all in such a small unit. It obviously must be rather rudimentary, if the fuse blew anyway. Thankfully, your motor is OK, whatever failsafe worked in the end.

Mike.

 

[mikej460]

Just in case anyone searches for a replacement switch for a single phase kity 619 then this is possible using a Charwood HCK3 switch https://www.charnwood.net/products/prod ... athway-232. Take a picture of your existing wiring and also label the wires and do a drawing just in case it doesn't work. Snip off the end contactor wires (not the coil wires mind you - just the visible contactor than is activated by the start/stop buttons) on the Kity cable as the more modern Charnwood doesn't have these contactor connectors. Remove the motor and power Kity cables from the old switch. Replace the supplied cable on the Charwood switch with the original Kity one but first slip on the supplied cable gland for the side entry motor feed cable and also a new M16 cable gland (not supplied) for the bottom power cable entry (this is only possible from the power socket end as the gland is too small to get the angled connectors through) plus any grommets. Reconnect the wires as per your photo/diagram with the exception of the contactor ones that you snipped off of course.

 

[Tian Coulsting]

Hi guys,

I hope this is okay with forum etiquette. I overloaded my Kity 419 today and it's still starting up (after a bit of cool down time) but then it's cutting after only a small amount of resistance on the cuts (super minor pinching) which is meaning I can't get any of my longer cuts done. As I say, it is so switching on but it's now cutting out in a way that it never did before. Even when the blade stalled previously, it would start running again after removing the wood causing the resistance. Now it just stalls and stops entirely. Could this also be fixed by replacing the NVR or a fuse within it?

Thanks
Tian

 

[Sheptonphil]

More likely to be the run capacitor. Do you hear the switch actually drop contact?

 

[timbra]

Hi!

Sorry for digging this up again. I have a Kity 1619, it started intermittently not having enough strength to spin the blade a few weeks ago and has got progressively worse to the point now where if I switch it on it buzzes but doesn't have enough strength to start the blade spinning at all. If I carefully (!) push the blade with a bit of wood this pushes it back into life and it seems to operate fine once going.

Any ideas what the issue could be? Is it an electronic issue, or could it just need stripping down and lubricating? It's a 2002 model I believe, French made I think as the address and all instructions are printed in France.

Thanks.

 

[Distinterior]

It sounds like the start capacitor has failed.....Pretty cheap to replace.....Just make sure you buy a replacement with the same values as the original.

 

[timbra]

It sounds like the start capacitor has failed.....Pretty cheap to replace.....Just make sure you buy a replacement with the same values as the original.

Thank you for this!

I took your advice and rang round some suppliers, managed to find a place fairly local to me who rewind motors (Aire Valley Rewinds), they supplied me with both start up and run capacitors wired with the correct leads.

After replacing them both the saw now starts up so much quicker, like a new saw! Made me realise how shot they must have been.

The only downside is I dropped an M6 nut into the motor housing and can't get it out (it was not obvious how the back housing comes off), it rattled a couple of times on start up but has now gone quiet, so I think ignorance is bliss at the moment.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

 

[HOJ]

The only downside is I dropped an M6 nut into the motor housing and can't get it out (it was not obvious how the back housing comes off), it rattled a couple of times on start up but has now gone quiet, so I think ignorance is bliss at the moment.

I would suggest you ensure that nut ain't still in there, that could end up being costly, the motors on the Kitty machines are, as far as I know, unique (for want of a better word)