Kitchen wood worktops

[woodyfxr]

We have a Beech (i think) wood worktop, it's about 6/7 years old now. It has had quite regular cleans an re-oils with Tung oil.
Is there a better oil for this, i have seen boiled linseed oil recommended but then i read it is for outside furniture. It seems there are as many views on this as there are chances of winning the lottery.......well an exaggeration i know but would be interest in some advice/views from whom ever.

I have done a couple of complete re-sands in the past startig with 80 grit and working up to 400 grit with a palm sander. I have then given it a light hand sand with 1000 grit. The surface feels beautiful and smooth, i then coat with warmed Tung oil, leave for 15 mins and wipe off. I have let this dry and then given a light hand sand with 400 grit then applied a second coat leaving to stand for 15 mins them wiped off with a clean cloth.
The finish feels really silky but only seem to last about three weeks when it feels and looks a little worse for wear again.

 

[NickWelford]

Osmo oil for work tops..

 

[andersonec]

Tung oil is not the best of finishes when there is water almost permanently present, there are a few specially made for the task such as;

Rustins worktop oil (needs to be thinned about 30% with water)
Sadolin worktop oil
Osmo top oil (my choice)
Liberon finishing oil (needs to be built up until happy with density)
Ronseal worktop oil

Andy

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Liberon recommend Danish for outdoor use, not finishing oil - so for a worktop I'd sooner go with that. Osmo is good and easy though. I've only tried tung once, and I can't see the fascination.

 

[paulm]

I used danish oil for a few years but was never very happy with it where there was water around and a couple of years ago changed to Osmo Top Oil which is much, much better at resisting water splashes, the water beads on the surface and doesn't sink in. It's more of a wax/oil mix and thicker to put on that traditional oils, and isn't cheap, but very good and will last much better than traditional oil only finishes.

Cheers, Paul

 

[woodyfxr]

Thanks for the reply's, guess i will wait till the Tung oil has gone and use Osmo oil then.
Never gave that oil a thought even though i have some for a dinig table i made. The Osmo oil supplier is not far from me as well.

 

[morfa]

I have some Osmo top oil on my sycamore worktop and it's great. Wonderful stuff.

 

[GLFaria]

IKEA has their brand Behandla for wooden kitchen tops. An easy to apply, penetrating oil which does not make a surface coating, so the wood is bound to be dammaged if roughly used (bleach, solvents, hot stuff...). But, at least according to IKEA, it is safe for foodstuffs.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As are Osmo and some Danish.

 

[Beau]

Did ours with Finishing oil. Many coats applied so more like a varnish than a matt oil but superb protection. Only thing that caused damage was some spilt homebrew wine that got left overnight.

 

[fluffflinger]

I'm in the business and we use Liberon Finishing Oil exclusively. Yes multiple coats are required but you can choose to stop when the sheen is what you require.

 

[HOJ]

Fiddes Satin Matt Hard Wax oil for me, on interior work only though.

Posted a review on Axminsters website years ago and still stand by it, however, they don't stock it any more.

I also use Osmo, as I can buy locally, but still prefer the Fiddes.

Paul

 

[Shed hermit]

Done the danish thing but prefer Osmo top oil, just used natural colour for a customer, looked great. Have found going too fine on the sanding prevents a nice amount of oil penetrating the worktop, but that might be just me. I think there used to be finish guidelines on the osmo website.