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kitchen door antics

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kityuser

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all going very well on the beech kitchen front, except I`m missing some measurments..........

bloke in B&Q had a fit yesterday when I tried to take a door out of its packaging to sneak a look at the measurments for the hinge holes on the back.... :shock: ..... like I was going to nick it :shock: *HONESTLY*

could anyone supply me with the dimensions for the hinge holes, i.e. distance from top/bottom of door, and inset from edge.


many thanks

steve
 

Ian Dalziel

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Steve,
Are your carcasses from B&Q as hinge holes and plates differ from various manufacturers. If you go back into B&Q take the sizes off a display kitchen.
Kitchen cabinet hinges can vary very slightly also, i used to bore them 150mm down from the top and 150mm up from the bottom and 22mm in from the front face to the centre of the hinge (35mm hole) but these were on my own made carcass and doors so it really didnt matter.
Also cabinet hinges have got good all round adjustments so being a 1mm or so out, you should still be able to fit them.
When drilling the hinge holes use a pillar drill as doing it by hand can sometimes throw the bit off and mark your door
TIP when screwing the hinges onto the door align both hinges with a longish spirit level this ensure they are both sitting square to each other and make it easier to fit onto the hinge plates when hanging

hope this was of some help
Ian
 

kityuser

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many thanks for the tips.

looks like I`ll go back into b&q and take a look.

cheer

steve
 

johnelliott

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You don't need to go back to B+Q. Just drill 35mm holes with a purpose made drill bit in a pillar drill. Position it so the hole is 4-5mm from the edge, and 80 to 110mm from top and bottom depending on how high the door is.
John
 

Rattie

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If you are hanging a few doors may I recommend getting one of the TCT hinge bits. These cut much more efficiently than the standard steel bits which seem to blunt easily and start burning the workpiece. Trend do one, which I think even B&Q stock now in their badged Trend stuff.

You can also save yourself a lot of marking up by using/making a back fence for your pillar drill. If you mark up and drill one door or template work piece, you can then use that to set up the fence and mark off where the door top and bottom come to on the fence. Hope that makes sense.

Martyn
 

ike

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If you look in your Screwfix catalogue, there's a little drawing....
 
G

Guest

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I've used one of the special bits, cost me about £11 and it only lasted for about 8 holes. Why can't a forstner bit be used? they seem much sharper and a lot cheaper
 

Chris Knight

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jaymar,

You can use a Forstner but they are generally of ordinary carbon steel and that will need sharpening too after drilling not too many holes in chipboard. I have used them for drilling a dozen or so holes without problems.
 
A

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Hi Kityuser, just been there and done that with 17 oak doors...
The distance in from the edge depends on how much overlap of the carcass you want, a good explanation of this is on the Blum Website, look under products - catalogue - hinge systems. You can adjust the overlap by a few mm using the hinge adjustment as well. I assume you are using B&Q carcasses, so my tip for fiting the hinge plates is useless to you.

As a side note, I used a standard cheapo forstner bit in a pillar drill, yes it blunted quickly, but I never bothered to sharpen it, just kept abusing it and it cut fine, as long as you start gently and let it score the first few mm it'll be ok.

Joe
 

Alf

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Up the proverbial creek
I don't know how it compares to using a proper bit, but I made a simple jig and used a guide bush in a router when I had a couple of those hinges to fit. Piece of ply with the appropriate sized hole bored with a forstner bit, fence to get the right distance from the edge IIRC. Worked just fine and dandy - amazingly so, considering my track record when using a router for anything. :roll: FWIW.

Back to her bed of sickness, Alf
 
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