Best method of cutting - panel saw (i.e. a big saw bench), radial arm saw or failing that a straight edge and circular saw - oh, I see you've got that :lol: . Make sure that you can support the full length of the joint absolutely flat - it's very difficult to joint wooden bananas! I'd seriously try to get the local sheet material supplier to cut it for you if they possess a panel saw with a tilting blade - just the joint angles. For example our Altendorf panel saw can cut consistently and repeatably at 0.1 degree tilt increments which beats any non-panel saw I've ever used.
Best method to join them:
1. Biscuits (assuming you've got a biscuit jointer with a "folding" fence on a quadrant). You may need to make-up an angled shoe and/or angled suppory plate to locate the jointer blade correctly. The biscuit slot needs to be at exactly 90 degrees to the edge of the workpiece)
2. Loose tenon. Groove down each face with the cut being made nearer to the inside of the carcase than to the outside (draw this and you'll see what I mean). This can only be achieved with a table saw or radial arm saw (and having said that someone will now prove me wrong.....) If you groove with the same 3.2mm kerf saw blade that cut the original joint (this is a GOOD reason to have a standard blade in a 10in or 12in sawbench, BTW) you can make the loose tennon from 1/8in hardwood plywood.
3. Take a look at these nifty angle joint fixings from Hafele (
http://www.hafele.co.uk). Go to Products/On-Line Catalogue and log in as a guest - look for Furniture Fittings/Carcase and Shelf Fittings/KD Fittings/Connecting Bolts then page down until you get to the MiniFix GV mitre joint connectors on around page 6 (
http://www.hafele.co.uk/Hafele35a1/Temp ... 011&page=6 - if it works) - we use this type of fastener on Point of Sale stands, etc - you'll also need MiniFix 15 or similar cam fixings to utilise these, plus a drilling jig (or a CNC router).
4. Dowelled - make up a lipped dowelling block with the drillings biased towards the inside of the joint (rather like the biscuit slots above)
5. Angled hardwood glue/screw blocks on the inside - they won't be seen, so does it really matter? This is the low tech approach, but it will work.
I don't think you could use a pocket hole for a situation like this as there is a grave danger of screwing straight through the outer face of the material.
Either way the joint must be equally bisected (as staed by a previous poster).
I'd also suggest trying to cadge up a bit of MF-MDF (melamine faced MDF) for this job rather than MFC (melamine faced chipboard) as the acute angle will tend to chip-out a lot more if sawn from MFC. Raw MDF would be the most amenable to being filled and repaired but is a pain to finish.
Hope this helps
Scrit