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I'm with your missus - not literally!! hehe - one on the left just has a wee bit more interest (y)
 
Personnally my favourite profile is a shaker door with a chamfer on the top and bottom rail. Less of a dirt trap and pretty timeless in kitchens.
 
Personnally my favourite profile is a shaker door with a chamfer on the top and bottom rail. Less of a dirt trap and pretty timeless in kitchens.
Is the whole rail chamfered, or stopped? I don't suppose you have a picture do you?
 
The whole rail.

df1Jtu6.jpg
 
Personnally my favourite profile is a shaker door with a chamfer on the top and bottom rail. Less of a dirt trap and pretty timeless in kitchens.
Yes that was my arguments against the more detailed one - harder to keep clean and more vulnerable to damage. Your cabinets look really smart and well modelled by the dogs!
 
Thanks Stimpy. Sammy those doors look smart and the hinge pins look good where you have paced them - unless you could get them to line up perfectly with the bead - its probably best to leave the frame alone or else it may look a bit awkward.

Jar - thats professional kit you have there! - Ive been playing with a similar profile on my little router table lol - its the one on the left in my mockup image and is the one I've decided (or the wife has) to use for my doors too.

I personally prefer a more ornate and deeper profile like you (or your wife 😄 ) chose for cabinet doors. The bead and cove is my go-to.
 
So got the end panels made and fitted. I made them to the size of the aperture and then skimmed them with the track saw and finished off by hand with plane and left a 1mm gap all around. Onto the doors now.
 

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Timber machined up for a batch of doors.
 

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So I’ve made all the doors and drawer fronts. Fitted some off the doors so far, used Simonswerk brass butt hinges which I’m impressed with. I played around a bit a decided to let them into the doors only. I made a simple jig up to enable me to accurately rout the door stiles.

I’ve also made up some doorstops out of 15mm oak dowel with a hole drilled eccentrically so that I can rotate it to position it perfectly. Fitted one top and one bottom per door. hinges.
 

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Why the stops?
Are you not using mag catch of some sort, I think you will find it super annoying if you don't.
Sorry but not a fan of them, design wise.
Use a top notch mag catch or put a hidden mag catch in the frame and door.

I'm impressed with the rest, I hope my opinion of the stops is taken the right way and ignored completely if the design pleases you.
 
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Hi Bob, I'm going to use magnets let into the frame and the door, so I will need a hard stop for the door to register against. I came across the method on one of Oliver's from Bradshaw Joinery Youtube clips whilst searching for something a bit slicker than the normal catches - I think he posts on here - so a big thanks to him for the idea (he's done some great videos where he explains things really well - a talented chap.)

Here is the video with him explaining it - if you scroll to the end and watch the closing action in a finished cabinet he's made, its impressive.

 
I used to do similar. Same magnets, one dilled into frame one in door, very slightly off set.
As a commercial enterprise I realised it was costing me a fortune in labour.
I now use a really slick mag catch which looks great, costs a lot, but saves a lot of labour.

It's your kitchen, not mine. Your opinion counts not mine.
 
I used to do similar. Same magnets, one dilled into frame one in door, very slightly off set.
As a commercial enterprise I realised it was costing me a fortune in labour.
I now use a really slick mag catch which looks great, costs a lot, but saves a lot of labour.

It's your kitchen, not mine. Your opinion counts not mine.

Yes I can imagine its time consuming in your position when operating commercially and you have to look at the economics of all you do - you'd be horrified if you knew how long it takes me to do each part of this build lol!. Its just a one off for me though so I don't mind a bit of extra time.

When you used to do similar, what did you used to stop the door against?
 
Bob, what kg pull do you use? the Hafele one's I've been using are 6 kg and I could do with less pull.
2kg or 5kg or 8kg, I mainly use 2kg
Jon I stopped using the Hafele ones you posted up due to too many shattered magnets within a year of installation.
These one's are bulletproof and in my opinion "classier".
 
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