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sammy.se

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I read about one method (but not done it myself) which is you work out how much reveal/offset your face frame will have Vs the inside of the cupboard. E.g. on the bottom, your face frame might be flush, so it's the same offset on both the frame and the carcass. If at the top of the cabinet, your face frame over hangs the inside surface of the top of your carcass by say, 5mm, then you add 5mm to the fence height when you cut the mortice in the face frame. So basically, always reference the inside surface and work out the offset based on the amount of overhang of the face frame.

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Doug71

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Think I mentioned it before but the domino is almost too precise, if your carcass is 500mm outside and your face frame 500.5mm you will struggle.

I would take your mitre saw into the kitchen and cut/fit the face frames in situ, for example cut and temporarily domino on the outside uprights then you can cut the horizontals tight between. You can then take them back to workshop to glue up.

Not sure how you are dealing with the cockbead but I often make up the face frames from square timber and pin the cockbead on after. I know it's not the proper way of doing it but makes it easier if you don't have all the kit for cutting out the the mitres and its easier to domino square frames together.
 

monster

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Thanks for that Sammy. Doug, I understand what you mean there about being to accurate, you’d be referencing off different datums so asking for trouble!

I’m going to use the Kreg beaded face frame system to generate the notches and beading In the face frame and i’dlike then to use the domino to hold the rails and stiles together - that’s the first bit to accomplish - then I need to attach the whole frame to the front of the MFC caracasses were the issue of marrying up the domino mortices as you have highlighted becomes a challenge...
 

doctor Bob

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a bit of thin cardboard about 1/2mm is all you need when fitting face frames. No need to adjust domino or buscuiter.
Don't do anything flush, have 1/2mm step to hide mel edge at bottom, same with sides as I fit the carcase to the frame inside but if you want the carcase to the outside still have a step on the outside to ensure you can fit the frame to frame tight.
 

monster

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doctor Bob":2pcnbonu said:
a bit of thin cardboard about 1/2mm is all you need when fitting face frames. No need to adjust domino or buscuiter.
Don't do anything flush, have 1/2mm step to hide mel edge at bottom, same with sides as I fit the carcase to the frame inside but if you want the carcase to the outside still have a step on the outside to ensure you can fit the frame to frame tight.
Hi Bob, I understand what you mean by not attempting to fit the the frames flush - I am making them 38mm wide so that will leave a 1mm lip all around when applied to 2 x 18mm carcasses.

But as Doug mentioned earlier - how to you ensure that the domino slots aren't 'so accurate' that as reference points vary you will find the dominos dont line up exactly?
 

Jonathan S

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Monster.....I no longer try and fit 2 carcass to 1 face frame, try and give each carcass it's own face frame, it makes everything easy and actually looks ok.

Regards settings the domino up for carcass to face frame joint......I just do test pieces and keep the referance.

For the mason mitre joints I domino before cutting the cock bead.....I have made jigs and incorporated toggle clamps to help cutting these joints.
This joint is also easier to finish if the cock bead is set in 1 or 2 mm.

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monster

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Thanks for that Jon - yes that sounds like a good idea to cut the domino mortice first before notching or beading - i guess i'll just try and figure out the best way for me as I go!
 

monster

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So I've made a start on the face frames - doing the simpler ones first. Using domino's and glue to hold them together - the domino is a great little device for this sort of thing simple to use and a nice strong discreet joint - I enjoy using it.

I took delivery of a Kreg beaded face frame jig on Wednesday and really impressed with it - its well made and produces a lovely result - would be nice to have a second router table so each could be left set up, one with the notching bit and the other with the beading bit.

Very happy with the results so far, here's some pics of the first frames I've made - the more complicated and larger ones for the island and pantry are next up - I aim to make them as one single frame. Just waiting for some pipe clamps to arrive as I need some long clamping capability!
 

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sammy.se

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Looks great. Is that the larger or smaller kreg beading bit?

I bought the kreg small beading bit and notching bit when I was last in the states, haven't tried them yet.

The jig was a bit pricey for me so I will attempt to make my own sled on the router table with markings/stops to get the notches right.


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monster

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sammy.se":1x2ngu4h said:
Looks great. Is that the larger or smaller kreg beading bit?

I bought the kreg small beading bit and notching bit when I was last in the states, haven't tried them yet.

The jig was a bit pricey for me so I will attempt to make my own sled on the router table with markings/stops to get the notches right.


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Hi Sammy - its the smaller bit - Kreg call it 1/4" - to be more specific its 3/16" radius with 1/16" quirk giving a total of 1/4". So its a small detail, and in my eye looks about right for smaller cabinets such as kitchen units - if I was doing a wardrobe I would use a bigger size.

I did think of making up my own sled, but this is a really nice system to use, and the flip stop is very accurate and makes using it easy.
 

monster

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Doug71":3rokywlr said:
Looking good =D> =D> =D>
Cheers Doug - its really satisfying to be making stuff!

I'm working out how to machine the flutes as I want them to taper out as they finish rather than come to an abrupt stop, I think i will need a ramp that the router or workpiece rides up on towards the end of the cut - anyone got any thoughts? - not sure whether to tackle them with a router and guide or to do them on the router table....
 

sammy.se

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monster":12n6wxzw said:
sammy.se":12n6wxzw said:
Looks great. Is that the larger or smaller kreg beading bit?

I bought the kreg small beading bit and notching bit when I was last in the states, haven't tried them yet.

The jig was a bit pricey for me so I will attempt to make my own sled on the router table with markings/stops to get the notches right.


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Hi Sammy - its the smaller bit - Kreg call it 1/4" - to be more specific its 3/16" radius with 1/16" quirk giving a total of 1/4". So its a small detail, and in my eye looks about right for smaller cabinets such as kitchen units - if I was doing a wardrobe I would use a bigger size.

I did think of making up my own sled, but this is a really nice system to use, and the flip stop is very accurate and makes using it easy.
Thanks, agreed about the size - I also got the smaller cutter.

Yes their system is pretty good indeed.

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monster

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Had a go at fitting the face frames today, went a lot easier than I thought. Used dominos again and turned out to be a very straightforward process.
 

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monster

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Been machining up the more complex face frames today. The beauty of using dominos and the Kreg beading system is that the dominos locate the joint in one axis and the notch that the Kreg system produces locates in the other plane, this makes clamping and gluing up a lot easier as the joint pulls together and seats itself as the clamps are done up, there is no slippage or fighting for alignment.
 

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