Kitchen cabinet questions.

[Zeddedhed]

I've been asked by a client to build some kitchen cabinets and doors and they have specified materials based on something they read on the inter web. http://britishstandardcupboards.co.uk/the-kitchen
I am unsure as to why Melamine faced birch ply would be considered to be better than MDF, and why you would use poplar for the door frames instead of MDF, especially as it's all painted.
Can someone with more knowledge than me give me some pointers?
It would seem to me that it's more about marketing than actually adding anything to the practical value of the cupboards.

 

[marcros]

I suspect that the poplar is to give a bit of wood grain texture when painted. It may give less issues with fluffy cut edges, or finishing them on mdf.

Melamine faced birch ply sounds expensive and then some.

 

[jasonB]

Poplar takes the screws from butt hinges better if you are using them and is also less likely to get damaged if you have cock beading around the face frame openings. It can be a bit soft in a kitchen so beech may be better.

You should not see any wood grain from the poplar if properly prepared

 

[Max Power]

Poplar paints lovely and is relatively cheap, but as Jason says Beech is far tougher

 

[blackrodd]

The last cabinets that i built i made the cabinets from 18 mm M/R mdf, Tulip wood front, glued and buiscuit jointed on.
12mm mdf doors with a 9mm moulded "plant" on top as a fret, making up the doors to 21mm thick. drawers to match.
then in the spray booth and painted.
I used M/Resistant mdf because in many older houses the warm air does not circulate around the cold water pipes etc as we would like.
Regards Rodders

 

[adzeman]

Last week on Quest Norm was building a dressing table using ¾” ply and on the second part he visited a plywood manufacturing factory. The core of the boards was made up in poplar because near the factory it grew in abundance. The trees grew straight and high. The external faces formed in the desired veneer.

Framing in solid timber is a trend there’s nothing wrong with MDF but to quote Brad Nailer use the green MDF. I am a traditionalist at heart and did prefer solid timber and the last cupboard frames I built were in Beech, to which I did have difficulty this year in sourcing. The techniques in working with MDF I find are different to working with timber and I had to learn and practice its use. If MDF had been available in the 17th centuary Chippendale would have used it.
If the client wants poplar framing and is willing to pay for it, give it to him.

 

[doctor Bob]

If MDF had been available in the 17th centuary Chippendale would have used it.

I hear this quite a bit, but I doubt it. Why would he, there are so many better products when budget is not an issue.
Why would he use an MDF core rather than a birch ply core for example.

Don't get me wrong, I think MDF is great for providing a job on budget but if budget is not a problem I can think of better products

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I am unsure as to why Melamine faced birch ply would be considered to be better than MDF, and why you would use poplar for the door frames instead of MDF, especially as it's all painted.

It would seem to me that it's more about marketing than actually adding anything to the practical value of the cupboards.

I would think that a very short test would answer the question.

Put an off cut of standard MDF, MRMDF, and plywood on end in a plastic container add 4cm water leave for 12 hours (keep the water at 4cm) then remove leave to dry for a day and check the results. The plywood will show little damage the MDF will be destroyed, I don't know what will happen to the MRDF but you will.

It is extream but the finish will be damaged at some time in the future and could have water penetration.

MDF, like IKEA has its place, (and in that place it is often the best option) but like IKEA you need to either want cheep or be really careful where and how you use it especially in places where there is often water.

An other point is that ply and poplar can withstand mechanical abuse better and if damaged can be repaired more easily.

 

[pablo823]

I use poplar on all of my kitchens, I wouldn't use beech it moves all over the place,(past experience) maple is an option. As for the carcases, ply is good but if
its painted then its not going to wear very well. I use egger board mfc on mine or veneered mdf and then lacquered. I don't think you can buy veneered plywood
in the uk of the shelf :?:

Paul

 

[ColeyS1]

If you've got any type of moulding to put around the frame, mdf smashs the hell out of spindle cutters- mr mdf it does anyway Small job might be o.k but proper tree wood usually machines better with a nicer finish .
Coley

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[No skills]

I think SL Hardwood lists veneered ply.

Poplar seems a traditional choice for painted face frames, don't know how it came about (availability and properties most likely) - a few kitchen companies I have looked at suggest maple/beech for a harder wearing frame (more £ though).

If I had the money I'd just get Bob to make mine

 

[MMUK]

Personally I would never use mdf again for anything. Even laminated chipboard is better, it stands up much better to moisture than mdf. After all, it's a carcass so essentially it's not seen. If I want a real Wood finish to show I apply a hardwood veneer to the front edges of the chipboard carcass.

 

[adzeman]

I used to be anti MDF but the green is quite dense and machines well without furring on the edges takes paint well specially if sprayed. Working it is a different technique and its a stable material. I have not used poplar and from the reactions posted I should look out for some on the next visit to the timber yard. Incidently, the beech I recently purchased from a local yard was incredibly cheap, they were 3m lengths with one wany edge from the yard sizing some boards for a customer from which I could machine into 55mm x 30mm stock for £1.00 a length. He just wanted them out of the yard as they were getting in his way. (probably going to skip them)