Katsu router - not "good vibrations"

[Bodgers]

I did a thread a while ago comparing the Katsu to the Makita 1/4" router.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic? ... source=app

My opinion then was that it was worth getting as it was basically cheap and functional but definitely wasn't the same thing as the Makita.

The Makita I put in my X-Carve and the Katsu I used as a hand trim router.

More recently I made a router table wing in the table saw and fitted the Katsu to it.

It always was noiser than the Makita, but does anyone find it next to unusable due to the vibrations in a table?

When I first started mine up in the table, the push fit insert in my router plate was thrown into the air, bounced into the router bit and was smashed into several pieces around the workshop. The vibrations just make it crazy loud.

By comparison the Makita just doesn't seem to vibrate as much. I wonder if mine is dodgy or that there are some QA issues with the Katsu in the balance of the armature or something?



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[Droogs]

I have 3 of the katsus, 1 in the square base, 1 in the usual sliding base and one in a table. I built the table specifically for the katsu and have had no problems whatsoever with the insert coming out or with vibrations. Admittedly my insert is 6mm of steel plate.

 

[Bodgers]

I have 3 of the katsus, 1 in the square base, 1 in the usual sliding base and one in a table. I built the table specifically for the katsu and have had no problems whatsoever with the insert coming out or with vibrations. Admittedly my insert is 6mm of steel plate.

Interesting. Mine is fully bolted in tight, it can't go anywhere, but I'd class the vibration as excessive, it eventually even works the clamp on the router fence loose.

I've got a larger and more powerful (12.7mm collet) round body Hitachi/Metabo on order from the US, so I'll see how that performs in the same table setup.



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[Droogs]

I would suggest you make a gasket out of some thin neoprene to act as a shock absorber and see how that goes.

 

[Bodgers]

I would suggest you make a gasket out of some thin neoprene to act as a shock absorber and see how that goes.

Could do, the Makita is much smoother though, so it is staying in there for now until I need to switch it back into the X-Carve.

I might buy another Katsu to compare

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[Eric The Viking]

Something is out of balance, and/or the main bearing has failed.

It's odd, as normally motor armatures are balanced by grinding away weight, not adding anything that can fall off.

Shaft: Has it been dropped at all, so that the shaft might be bent out of true, even slightly? Do you have a dial gauge that might let you check runout?

Bearings: plug removed, turn the shaft by hand; check for any grinding or resistance (abnormal, I mean). If there is noticeable roughness, that's the bearing. They are usually easily replaced, although that might need a puller to remove the old one and/or a press to fit the new one. This isn't conclusive - bad bearings can still feel "OK". but it will identify something that's really unwell.

I have a bigger, cylindrical router that is not usable any more, as it lunched its cooling fan. If the Katsu has done something similar (but bits remain on the shaft), that would unbalance it, too. The fan is a plastic moulded part, probably at the collet end. You'll either get sight of it through the vents there, or need to remove the blue part if it's t'other end.

In short, there has to be a fault, which needs sorting. In any case, the more vibration there is, the worse the finish quality too.

 

[Bodgers]

I’ll check the shaft this evening - thanks

 

[sammy.se]

Just fyi Aldi have a £30 palm router online at the moment.

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[Bodgers]

Checked the shaft by rotating it by hand - I think the bearings are gone, it feels very rough. Not sure why as it is only just over a year old and hasn’t had a lot of use.

I’ve ordered a 1/2” Bosch with a round body from the US to replace it, relatives will bring it over in December.

 

[Eric The Viking]

That's a shame, but a repair may be inexpensive - quality bearings don't cost a lot.

If you can dismantle it, the bearing size will be stamped on the outer rim of the bearing (one of the flat faces, I mean). It will be a standard, and you can get various grades of replacement. The first part of the bearing code is the size, and the suffix(es) indicate the type - the sort of seal if any, and the speed rating.

Note that the high speed ones are intended for continuous running at high RPM/temperature: they start off sloppy, and only arrive at normal tolerance once they have warmed up, which is unlikely in this context as you don't run them for very long at a time. So I'd go for a sealed, "low" speed bearing from someone like SKF. I very much doubt the end bearing (at the electronics end) is at fault - the bigger one is next to the collet. But even if it's only a bronze bush, it too can be replaced. If the repair costs 20 quid, I'd be surprised.

I'd mention this in the metalworking section, for better advice than mine!

 

[Racers]

Checked the shaft by rotating it by hand - I think the bearings are gone, it feels very rough. Not sure why as it is only just over a year old and hasn’t had a lot of use.

I’ve ordered a 1/2” Bosch with a round body from the US to replace it, relatives will bring it over in December.

Hi Bodgers

If you are going to chuck it, chuck it my way Iwould like to strip is and see what went wrong, I will pay the postage etc.

I have one and its given me no problems at all.

Pete

 

[Droogs]

would be goosd to see a thread on that Pete

 

[Racers]

That was my plan.

Pete

 

[Bodgers]

Aim Tools are offering 10% off next purchase as a gesture of goodwill - warranty expired a couple of months ago.

If I get the time I will see if I can replace the bearings.

 

[Bmw e39]

Hi all. I just need to know if makita batteries are compatible with katsu, as looking at buying a cordless recipient (I don't use one much but I do have makita charger & batteries & the price between them makes sense as being a low user. Thanks

 

[Bodgers]

Hi all. I just need to know if makita batteries are compatible with katsu, as looking at buying a cordless recipient (I don't use one much but I do have makita charger & batteries & the price between them makes sense as being a low user. Thanks

There is no cordless Katsu router, only Makita make one...

 

[Bodgers]

Update - replaced nose bearing,which helped a lot.

I notice the collect wasn't in great condition either, so I just swapped it out for Makita and that actually made the most difference. I think for anyone with one of these, it might be worth just buying a Makita collect, as the quality is better.

Anyways, after mounting it in the router table wing I recently built, I still wasn't happy with the noise and vibration, so I decided, to just buy the smallest 1/2" router of decent quality and build another table.

There was an offer on the Triton JOF001 (sold as ex-display, but arrived brand new and sealed) for £89. Wow, this is proper router. I did have a terrible off brand B&Q 1/2" but this is night and day better. It is so queit in comparison at full speed, plunge mech is smooth, the lit safety switch and generally quality are excellent. The real killer feature - no need for a router lift as it comes with a built in above table winder. Proof that if you design well, think about the features and do your due dillegence with the QA in the Chinese factories, you can get an excellent product.

 

[MikeJhn]

If you really analyse the Triton Router, you will find the lift is in the wrong place for the triton table, the automatic lock on the spindle is an absolute pain, as will still have to group around under the table to unlock it when you change the router bit, which seems to make the above table adjustment a nonsense as you still have to get on your knees and get under the table, they did not get this right IMO, once you get this in a table you will see what I mean.

 

[Bodgers]

I’ve got it mounted now (I’ll put another thread up later) and I’m not seeing this as a problem. I don’t have the official table, I have it mounted in my own DIY table saw wing setup.

With the bit in the router I can make any amount of adjustments from the winder without taking the whole thing either out of the table or crouching down to reset the height via the plunge mechanism. To get that without a lift is a great feature.

Yes, to change bits, You have to put your hand on the lock, but in this setup I can do that without any crouching, you just put one hand on the lock (which you can reach easily) and undo the collect with the spanner.

 

[user22161]

the automatic lock on the spindle is an absolute pain, as will still have to group around under the table to unlock it when you change the router bit,

Easy to remove - http://cliffsgarage.tv/tips/tritonInterlock.html