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Jointer knife setting jig

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jimmybigfoot

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Hi guys. I have a sip 01344 planer thicknesser and am fed up with the steel rule method of setting the knives. I have seen the Woodstock jointer jig. Do any of you have experience with it or an alternative? Cheers
Jim

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MikeG.

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Where's my horsewhip?

They're only jointers in the USA and Youtubeland. In the English speaking world they're planers.
 

woodbloke66

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I use the Ax Vernier Setting Jig but identical jigs are available from other outlets. On my Jet 260 p/t I can replace three cutter blades on the block inside 15 mins - Rob
 

jimmybigfoot

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Thanks guys, I meant planer lol. I'm not even American haha. Thanks for all the replies. I've just ordered the charnwood from eBay. I'll let you all know how it goes.


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julianf

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On my Axminster there are (were) springs under the blades. Fine for setting without the jig, but, the stops on the jig are magnetic, and I found it much easier to remove the springs and let the magnets lift the blades to the correct position. YMMV
 

Inspector

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Mike the magnets of the jig grab the cutter block and the tips of the blade holding them in the proper position while you tighten the gib screws. The tables don't come into play in the process.

Pete
 

ColeyS1

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They work off the cutter block Mike.

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twodoctors

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I have a similar machine (also SIP but maybe different model) and similar jig. I can't (don't know how) to remove both tables to get the jig to sit on the roller/cutter. If you can't remove both tables (as in my case) they are useless I'm afraid.

Good luck.

A
 

Inspector

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Can't you flip the tables up and do it that way or at least lower the front table like you would to take a maximum cut? What does the manual say to do?

Pete
 

julianf

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twodoctors":1ec3orh0 said:
I have a similar machine (also SIP but maybe different model) and similar jig. I can't (don't know how) to remove both tables to get the jig to sit on the roller/cutter. If you can't remove both tables (as in my case) they are useless I'm afraid.

Good luck.

A

You probably don't even need the side bits to be magnetic. So long as the blade is not sprung, it won't be pushing the jig away from the table, and gravity will be pulling it towards it, so it would work just as well without the side magnets.
 

sneggysteve

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"Thanks guys, I meant planer lol. I'm not even American haha. Thanks for all the replies. I've just ordered the charnwood from eBay. I'll let you all know how it goes."

Any views on the jig please?
 

geoffshep

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Ah - light bulb moment - take the springs out!

I got one of those ebay/Woodford Tooling jigs - for an Axminster AW106PT2. Not sure if it is identical to the Axminster one, or a cheap copy, but all I proved initially was that the spring pressure was enough to push the central body of the jig up out of the housing. They are not exactly well built.

Mind you, there are no instructions either so I was groping in the dark a bit. Neither does the Axminster manual mention removing the springs.

I've taken the springs out and had another go but I still seem to have to use a straight edge on the outfield table as a best setting guide. I don't find the jigs very repeatable but I can use them to move the knives up and down and hold them in position as I tighten the screws.
 

Eric The Viking

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MikeJhn":165fgnwt said:
I use a pice of plate glass and so do a lot of others on here, you don't see many posting because they don't have a problem with setting up or snipe.
Absolutely, same here.

I had a set of those jigs but sold them (or gave away - can't remember), as they were pretty useless - the tables on my Kity P/T aren't operationally removable, the drum is small (about 2.5") and the tables are alloy. Complete waste of time on a small machine, and to be honest I probably wouldn't bother if I had something bigger and better either.

I micro-adjust the blade height with pieces of copier paper (80g) on the outfeed table, under the glass plate.

We recently replaced or built-in oven. In the middle of each of the two oven doors there is a slab of tempered heatproof glass. The one for the small upper oven is the perfect size for the task on the P/T, as it's narrow enough to spanner the outer clamp bolts without needing to move it, but long enough for some weights on top to hold it securely.

Mind you, it was expensive: the new oven cost loads.

:)

E.
 

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