Jet Wetstone sharpener - stone retained nut rusted on

[SVB]

Folks,

I've got a Jet wet wheel sharpener and through poor material choice but Jet and a lack of TLC by me, the retaining nut has rusted on.

There is plenty of life left in the stone but I would like to be able to remove the stone and lubricate underneath as I have a concern that because it is a snug fit on the shaft, further rust could cause the wheel to fail from the stress applied to the bore (just like the old fashioned way of splitting rock with wetting dry wedges etc) and also to clean / lubricate the nut now to stop that getting any worse.

The question is how do I remove a rusted on nut without buggering the shaft? Any tips appreciated as the soaking with WD40 / 3in1 etc has not helped!

Thanks

Simon

 

[lurker]

Are you turning the nut in the correct direction?

Sorry if that sounds insulting.

 

[flh801978]

Warm the nut with a small blowtorch..the kitchen ones are fine for this whilst its hot apply wd40 or something like this,carefully because sometimes it catches fire,this usually works well if you do a few cycles of heat and allowing to cool

Ian

 

[CHJ]

Assuming you are turning in correct direction, as long as shaft bearings are bronze and not plastic try applying a hot iron to the nut, Old style copper soldering iron or large (60-125W electric). this might expand the diameter of the nut sufficiently before the heat conducts to the shaft to break any oxide bond.

Probably won't work now you have waterproofed with oil, but application of citric acid/lemon juice/lime juice will sometimes etch the rust bond enough to release.

Edit:- Ian beat me to it with the heat cycle.

 

[MickCheese]

WD40 is a water displacement fluid.

Plus gas is for freeing seized nuts and bolts.

Try a soaking in plusgas it really is very good stuff.

Mick

 

[blackrodd]

After you've heated and wd40'd the nut, and all else has failed, get a mechanic with his B O Impact gun to have a go.
The bigger ones will have some torque. but make sure of the thread direction!
HTH Rodders

 

[Aden30mm]

Warm diesel, you can also try vibration around the nut, try a hammer drill with a smooth rod end held in the chuck. Go easy as you don't want to inflect to much stress on the bearings. May need a few days or repeat operations dependent on corrosion build up. If you get it off Coppercrest grease on the threads should prevent occurrence.

However, if all else fails you have to split the nut, with something like this, gradual tightening should prevent thread rod end damage. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/19098021 ... ue&ff13=80

 

[CHJ]

you can also try vibration around the nut, try a hammer drill with a smooth rod end held in the chuck.

You could try a Socket spanner driven by your impact drill driver, I've used this in the past to shock a shaft nut loose when it was not possible to hold a shaft from turning, the inertial of the stone may be enough for the drill ratchet to work against.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

As MickCheese said Plus Gas is excellent. I find the trick is to first apply plus gas all around the nut and allow it to sit for five minutes, apply more plus gas then heat. While heating keep applying more plus gas with a small paint brush. when you think it is hot enough remove the heat and allow to cool for about 10 seconds before tightening slightly then loosen. Just the other day, I had to remove twenty or so rusted-in bolts using this method and every one came out with ease and without damage.

 

[shed9]

Another trick I found that works quite well is to heat the nut and feed wax around the start of the thread. The wax feeds into the threads by capillary action and with this and heated nut it will eventually work loose.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Take it to your local 'Kwik Fit' or equivalent and ask them to remove it with a wheel gun.

However I fear your troubles won't end there - the wheel will probably be corroded to the shaft. A press would be the best method of addressing this.

Regards Mick

 

[shed9]

Make sure you know which direction the nut needs to go before applying any amount of force. The stone itself will not survive excessive force.

 

[SVB]

the wheel will probably be corroded to the shaft. A press would be the best method of addressing this.

Regards Mick

Mick,

That is sort of my main reason for wanting to address the problem. As I said, there is loads of life left in the wheel but I don't want corrosion of the shaft in the bore to prematurely cause the wheel to fail through the building up of forces as rust is of course more volumonous than the steel it replaces. That said, I will score an own goal if I break the wheel in trying to solve a problem where in only might break in the future!

Thanks

Simon

 

[Normancb]

I had the same problem with my early model Tormek. If your wheel is the same, it has a lead bush in the wheel centre and the wheel comes off relatively easily once the nut is free (I got mine off with heat and plus gas, though it took a few days of soaking).

Once it's dismantled the Tormek one has a replacement stainless steel shaft, but I don't know if that would fit a Jet. If not, I'd use a brass nut as a replacement to avoid future problems..

Don't break the wheel - they are not cheap!

 

[Eric The Viking]

Sticking my neck out, I think it is a left-hand thread, i.e. anti-clockwise tightens it.

It's certainly that way on my Dakota, which is extremely similar to the Jet one (the stropping wheel end is a normal thread with a hand nut on it). It's also a very coarse pitch, so highly unlikely to actually rust up completely.

If you have a suitable ring spanner, or a T-bar for a socket set, try this: fit whichever, take up the slack and give the far end of the spanner/t-bar a sharp tap with a hammer (in a clockwise direction). Assuming you haven't used up the wheel a lot, you could even hold it in the jaws of a woodworking bench vice (wooden jaws or wooden padding!), while you try that. Don't use excessive torque - the sharp impact is the thing which will free it.

E.

PS: You should be able to see enough of the thread to compare it to an ordinary bolt, to see which way it is going.

 

[sunnybob]

I have the jet.
Its a 19mm nut on a normal right hand thread.
Use the honing wheel to hold the shaft while you turn the nut. If its badly rusted, Go to halfords and buy a nut splitter. Break the nut in two, and buy a stainless 19mm nut to put back on the stainless shaft.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Bob, are both ends the same then (normal threads)?

I'm slightly surprised as it is extremely similar to the Dakota one -- lots of common parts, I'd guess from exactly the same factory. That said, the shaft on mine is only bright zinc plated steel, sadly not stainless, and it's already rusting slightly.

 

[sunnybob]

The leather honing wheel is held on with a plastic knurled knob. remove that and the drive wheel is located on a cross shaft pin, held in place with a 17mm locking collar.

With the left hand holding the drive wheel, a fair amount of force could be applied to the stone wheel 19mm nut. remember its a normal RIGHT HAND thread. Drive wheel on the left, spanner on the grit nut on the right and held high, pull down towards you.
But if the nut is severely rusted its not worth trying to get it off and end up breaking the drive wheel. Split the nut and fit stainless.

 

[SVB]

I have the jet.
Its a 19mm nut on a normal right hand thread.
Use the honing wheel to hold the shaft while you turn the nut. If its badly rusted, Go to halfords and buy a nut splitter. Break the nut in two, and buy a stainless 19mm nut to put back on the stainless shaft.

Thanks - I wonder if the unit went through several versions as the shaft on mine appears as badly corroded as the nut - doesn't look like stainless to me.

S

 

[sunnybob]

I've checked mine and it is stainless. i fitted a stainless nut.
All you have to do to check is see if a magnet sticks to it. If it does, its high carbon steel and needs some oil protection. If the magnet falls off, youre good to go.