Is this Possible....Another Box Q

[thecoder]

My Table saw is out of action and I was wondering if its possible to part a box lid with a router table and straight cutter ?

 

[lanemaux]

According to the router workshop show it is indeed. If I remember it right , it involved using shims the same width as your bit diameter in the slots as they get cut. Just taped in place as I recall. One slot half the thickness of the workpiece on the inside faces and then the box top is cut from the assembled box as shims are used to space the top and hold it in place as the final cuts are made. Hope that makes sense ,

 

[Benchwayze]

I do it from time to time. Hand-holding the router using the detachable fence.
Don't rout all the way through, or the lid might fly off! Leave about 1/32 " to part off with a craft knife, and sand flat on paper stuck to your table saw top or planer bed.

HTH
John

Edit...I have a two flute, HSS straight cutter that is just 3mm diameter and that serves usually.

 

[TheTiddles]

Yes, just don't cut full depth, does waste a lot of material though

Aidan

 

[lanemaux]

Sorry amigo. thought you were making a lipped box . Just saw the other thread you posted that implies a hinged lid. In that case not cutting all the way through and leaving a knifes depth to cut away you won"t need to shim.

 

[thecoder]

Cheers folks going to attemp it tomorrow.

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Coder,
Just get some scrap timber and nail or screw together a box of the same size first. Even some scrap ply would do. Obviously no fastenings near where you are going to rout. Then have a practice cut first.

HTH
John

 

[woodbloke]

I've never tried that trick with a router, but as Tiddles says, it wastes a lot of material. I usually do it by hand with a tenon or Japanese saw as the kerf is then tiny. Clean up the sawn surfaces by using ds tape to stick sandpaper to lump of mdf and move the sawn surfaces around on them until you obtain a matching fit. Subtle hand pressure means it's surprisingly accurate...one of Andrew Crawford's methods - Rob

 

[thecoder]

Hi Coder,
Just get some scrap timber and nail or screw together a box of the same size first. Even some scrap ply would do. Obviously no fastenings near where you are going to rout. Then have a practice cut first.

HTH
John

Cracking idea John, will do.

Dave

 

[thecoder]

I've never tried that trick with a router, but as Tiddles says, it wastes a lot of material. I usually do it by hand with a tenon or Japanese saw as the kerf is then tiny. Clean up the sawn surfaces by using ds tape to stick sandpaper to lump of mdf and move the sawn surfaces around on them until you obtain a matching fit. Subtle hand pressure means it's surprisingly accurate...one of Andrew Crawford's methods - Rob

That's another good idea

Cheers woodbloke , gona try the router idea then sand it down your way will post when done


Dave

 

[Digit]

I don't get this bit about it wastes a lot of material. I part mine on a TS, no need for slips or spacers, and simply make the sides oversize to accomodate the lost material from the cutting.

Roy.

 

[Benchwayze]

Me either Roy.. Although I use a router, I said earlier that I keep a 3mm two-flute HSS cutter for this job. I use the router because I don't like using a table-saw without a guard. Not scared of my saw, but having no guard makes me nervous! :mrgreen:

and Coder,

As I said in my first post, sand the joint on paper, stuck to your saw-table or planer bed!

John

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Whatever you do don't put the wrong face to the fence on the last cut, it really spoils your day DAMHIKT


Pete

 

[Digit]

Now I've heard everything Pete! :lol:

Roy.

 

[thecoder]

Now I've heard everything Pete! :lol:

Roy.

Hey you have not seen me perform :shock: I am the Mr bean of woodwork,if its possible you can bet I can get it wrong (twice)..

Thanks for all the feedback folks topnotch as per usual

Dave

 

[Digit]

If you use a router table Dave either stop the cut short of the exit end or cramp a sacrifical piece of wood on the end to prevent 'breakout.'

Roy.

 

[woodbloke]

Me either Roy.. Although I use a router, I said earlier that I keep a 3mm two-flute HSS cutter for this job.
John

Clearly John, your not as parsimonious with your material as wot I am If you were using Indian Ebony or an expensive rosewood of some denomination (or any precious timber for that matter) you'd bitterly lament seeing an extra 2mm's width of material go up in dust when it need only be one mm - Rob

 

[Digit]

The problem I have had with that is after cutting with a hand saw I always seem to end up taking more off with a plane to get the edge correct anyway!

Roy.

 

[woodbloke]

The problem I have had with that is after cutting with a hand saw I always seem to end up taking more off with a plane to get the edge correct anyway!

Roy.

If you use the sanding trick that I mentioned earlier in the thread, the amount of material removed is minimal. I used to use a plane to get mating surfaces but sandpaper stuck to mdf is quicker (in my view) and more accurate - Rob

 

[thecoder]

Well the router method worked a treat right up to the point where I left a small sliver around the edge that I removed with a craft knife, unfortunately when breaking off the remaining lip on the box,the edge on the inside of the box broke away ... I am fortunately going to line the box and im hoping that this will cover the tear on the inside of the box.

Twas quite a nerve racking experience .... there were also a few effs and jeffs flying round workshop.

On the sanding the top method with the sandpaper stuck to the planer bed..that worked an absolute treat :lol: