Cracking idea John, will do.Benchwayze":1r5jh3fi said:Hi Coder,
Just get some scrap timber and nail or screw together a box of the same size first. Even some scrap ply would do. Obviously no fastenings near where you are going to rout. Then have a practice cut first.
woodbloke":djj1pm27 said:I've never tried that trick with a router, but as Tiddles says, it wastes a lot of material. I usually do it by hand with a tenon or Japanese saw as the kerf is then tiny. Clean up the sawn surfaces by using ds tape to stick sandpaper to lump of mdf and move the sawn surfaces around on them until you obtain a matching fit. Subtle hand pressure means it's surprisingly accurate...one of Andrew Crawford's methods - Rob
Hey you have not seen me perform :shock: I am the Mr bean of woodwork,if its possible you can bet I can get it wrong (twice)..Digit":21jh2o22 said:Now I've heard everything Pete! :lol:
Clearly John, your not as parsimonious with your material as wot I am If you were using Indian Ebony or an expensive rosewood of some denomination (or any precious timber for that matter) you'd bitterly lament seeing an extra 2mm's width of material go up in dust when it need only be one mm - RobBenchwayze":9ymutiy1 said:Me either Roy.. Although I use a router, I said earlier that I keep a 3mm two-flute HSS cutter for this job.
If you use the sanding trick that I mentioned earlier in the thread, the amount of material removed is minimal. I used to use a plane to get mating surfaces but sandpaper stuck to mdf is quicker (in my view) and more accurate - RobDigit":3stxx385 said:The problem I have had with that is after cutting with a hand saw I always seem to end up taking more off with a plane to get the edge correct anyway!