Is it time for a table saw?

[Pallet Fancier]

I've recently acquired a big pile of wood. It's all heavily seasoned and very heavy floor joists, rafters and beams (and it's full of nails).

I'm thinking about processing it. My immediate need is for a workshop, and some of the rafters could be ripped into two very decent studs, each. But I'm not sure I'm equipped to rip a 9 foot length of 2"x4".

Do I finally need to bite the bullet and buy a table saw?

I've been avoiding this. I don't want to be an "all gear and no idea" guy, and I haven't needed one, yet. My plunge saw and collection of circular saws have all been fine for what I've needed, to date.

Could I make a jig/support like a giant bench vise with a flat surface to both support the timber and have something to run the plunge saw along?

Or do I really need a table saw? If so, what's a decent cheap one that can do rough work outdoors (no room indoors... yet). Might be able to arrange an awning...

Can I get a good one, second hand? Or should I steer clear of that market?

 

[Trainee neophyte]

Of course you need a table saw. Immediately. You've already proved you can be a hardcore hand tools woodworker; now get some kit and get to work!

The site saws (Dewalt, Makita, etc - the search term would be "portable site saw") can be hung on a wall when not in use. Do you have enough wall space for something like that? You would just need some trestles or a mobile bench to set it up on. Obviously a cast iron lump would be better - preferably prewar for bragging rights - but they are less mobile. A stand on wheels?

 

[Inspector]

Bandsaw.

Pete

 

[scooby]

I've got a table saw (and a bandsaw) but I've done the job you're proposing using a hand held circular and it was fine. Of course, the fence on a hand held is terrible compared to a table saw but if its just for studs it'd be ok. You could always do a bit of planing afterwards if you really wanted.
I wouldn't use a plunge saw unless its got a rip blade fitted. Personally I'd still use the circular, as that's what they are made for.

Buy a table saw if you really want to though

 

[scooby]

Bandsaw.

Pete

I'd agree with that, especially if you have a track saw. Personally, I'd just get a 14" bandsaw before buying a table saw. It'd be more expensive but more versatile. Depends on what work you do. I love using my bandsaw and moan when I have to use a table saw.

 

[Stevebod]

..I always fancied a table saw, but I have limited space, and the bl@@dy things scare me to death!!

..for me it would be the bandsaw option....

 

[TRITON]

I'd also recommend a bandsaw.
Table saw is good, but tends towards the dangerous side, especially if you're not used to them. The BS is a lot safer and has greater capacities.
Depth of cut, especially if you're ripping those boards you have would mean the blade out at full extent, and on a site saw that can be as much as 90mm, which is a fair bit and brings the danger factor up considerably.

..I always fancied a table saw, but I have limited space, and the bl@@dy things scare me to death!!

I used to use one of these.

 

[sirocosm]

I made some built-ins and wainscoting out of recycled floor joists. I found that no matter how careful I was, I never seemed able to remove every nail, or rather every piece of a nail. I cut the wood on a table saw with a carbide tooth wood-with-nails type blade. I also skimmed the surfaces before planing them. I am not sure what would happen if you hit a nail in a band saw, I am thinking any band saw blade that could handle nails would be quite slow. A table saw is faster, but a main disadvantage is that it is limited in depth of cut, although you can flip the wood over to double that.

Mine was an old Rockwell with a cast iron top, I don't think I would like to try that on one of those portable table saws.

 

[Stevebod]

I used to use one of these.

...seriously scary!!!.....

 

[Doug71]

I picked up an old one of these off gumtree for about £100 a few years ago, it got loads of abuse but just kept going. They have induction motors which is a bonus, not made for precision but reckon one would do what you need, a few companies make similar.


https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Metabo-Tkhs315C-240V-4003665397559-Mk-Ii-240V-Site-Table-Saw

 

[LJM]

I was without my table saw last year and did a very similar job using a circular saw and a simple jig. But I’d rather have done it on my table saw!

 

[scooby]

...seriously scary!!!.....

From experience, I'd disagree. When I was an apprentice, I had to use a saw similar to the one Triton showed. It was much nicer to use than my current table saw (Bosch).

 

[Jameshow]

I'd get a cheap evolution rage with a wood/metal cutting blade then once you have finished the job get a decent one.

Cheers James

 

[powertools]

If you want a table saw just buy one but you don't need one for this job, a hand held saw with a basic fence is far more suited for that sort of thing.

 

[TRITON]

From experience, I'd disagree. When I was an apprentice, I had to use a saw similar to the one Triton showed. It was much nicer to use than my current table saw (Bosch).

I agree. But when it comes to scary looking saws, this tops the list Think it was a bursgreen. 500 or 600mm blade.
I reckon because its such a heavy powerful bit of kit, its stable in use and has the power to rip though anything fed into it. Unlike small saws which seem to judder and struggle as the dimensions of the timber increase.

While being trained on it we were informed not to worry about the front of the blade, as that would only cut off the limb part that went into it, what was the dangerous bit was for the person on the outfeed end, as the teeth are going upwards, which would drag the hand/arm up and under the guard tearing it to pieces. So advised not to reach in onto the table but only act when the timber had left the table.
Advice like that certainly focuses the mind

We didnt have such niceties as a powerfeed, but heres one on YT with the full set up.
If I had the size of workshop , I'd definitely have one of these

 

[Orraloon]

To process those beams it would take a pretty serious bandsaw or tablesaw for that matter and of course the nails are a further complication. I would be using a circular saw to break then down to manageable sizes first. My bandsaw is 2 HP and would cut wood that thick but the weight of those big beams would be too much for the table to hold. Also one touch of a nail and the blade has to be resharpned. I usually find that if something is a struggle to lift by myself then its better to take the tool to the wood and break it down. Be as careful as you can with the denailing and be prepared with backup blades because as they say $#it happens. I an not trying to put you off using that wood as I recycle wood a lot but I sometimes also find that unfound nail or screw. TCT circular saw and tablesaw blades can often go through a regular nail without much of an issue but the harder steel in screws can knacker them pretty fast and as I said bandsaw blades dont like matal at all.
I would be getting a that shed up before thinking of a bandsaw or table saw.
Regards
John

 

[Lancashire Wood Studio]

I've recently acquired a big pile of wood. It's all heavily seasoned and very heavy floor joists, rafters and beams (and it's full of nails).

I'm thinking about processing it. My immediate need is for a workshop, and some of the rafters could be ripped into two very decent studs, each. But I'm not sure I'm equipped to rip a 9 foot length of 2"x4".

Do I finally need to bite the bullet and buy a table saw?

I've been avoiding this. I don't want to be an "all gear and no idea" guy, and I haven't needed one, yet. My plunge saw and collection of circular saws have all been fine for what I've needed, to date.

Could I make a jig/support like a giant bench vise with a flat surface to both support the timber and have something to run the plunge saw along?

Or do I really need a table saw? If so, what's a decent cheap one that can do rough work outdoors (no room indoors... yet). Might be able to arrange an awning...

Can I get a good one, second hand? Or should I steer clear of that market?

I can't advise on whether you should buy one or not, but if you do want one, mine is for sale: Axminster AW10BSB2 2.2Kw 230V 1ph with side and rear extension, 2 extension tables, mobile base. All in extremely good condition. Message me if your interested.

 

[danst96]

I would rough cut with a circular saw then do a clean up cut on a table saw.

If you get a table saw, get the biggest you can afford with a CI top. Anything else is a waste of money long term

 

[guineafowl21]

I agree. But when it comes to scary looking saws, this tops the list Think it was a bursgreen. 500 or 600mm blade.
I reckon because its such a heavy powerful bit of kit, its stable in use and has the power to rip though anything fed into it. Unlike small saws which seem to judder and struggle as the dimensions of the timber increase.

While being trained on it we were informed not to worry about the front of the blade, as that would only cut off the limb part that went into it, what was the dangerous bit was for the person on the outfeed end, as the teeth are going upwards, which would drag the hand/arm up and under the guard tearing it to pieces. So advised not to reach in onto the table but only act when the timber had left the table.
Advice like that certainly focuses the mind

We didnt have such niceties as a powerfeed, but heres one on YT with the full set up.
If I had the size of workshop , I'd definitely have one of these

Seems odd to have set it up to feed against the wall like that.

Far less scary than it might appear - full overguard and riving knife (better than many smaller saws being used out there) and the blade is so big the teeth are chomping DOWN into the wood, rather than arcing towards the operator.

 

[Avery]

My table saw and I are best friends. We couldn't live without each other. Sometimes I want to bring it out for dinner.... Once you have one you'll wonder how you lived without.