Iron on veneer edging

[Unib]

I've always shied away from using iron on veneer edging, probably due to bad experiences with MFI 'furniture' of yesteryear and it's inability to stay stuck on for more than about a day. I'm lead to believe glue technology's moved on a bit these days and it's actually pretty good these days – I've previously gone for 5mm real wood edging, glued and clamped but this puts serious time into production so I think the time has come to embrace the iron ( :shock: ). So my question is... are all iron on veneer edging much the same or are some better than others? If some are better - where so I get them?!

Thanks

 

[Paul Chapman]

I don't use it very often, but I think it's all much about the same. How I apply it is as follows.

Sand the edge with very fine abrasive over a cork or wood block to ensure the surface is very smooth and brush and blow the dust away. Cut the edging slightly over size. Iron the edge of the board to ensure that it is completely dry. Position the edging strip carefully to ensure that there is an equal overlap on each side. Place a piece of paper over the edging strip and iron, dwelling briefly to ensure that the adhesive is melted. Remove the paper and go over the edging strip with a smooth piece of wood, pressing down firmly, to ensure that it is well stuck down.

When it's cooled down trim off the excess. I've found that trimming is best done with a very sharp, finely set low angle block plane.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Unib]

That's great advice – cheers Paul

 

[wellywood]

You can also make your own iron-on edge banding.
Cut the veneer strips slightly over sized. Make a PVA glue/water by mixing 9 parts glue to 1 part water, brush on to the banding and allow to dry. Lightly sand the dried glue face to denib. Re-coat the face with the glue/water mix and allow to dry again then iron-on the edge banding. The heat will reactivate the glue. Trim as previously suggested.
I've used this method many times and had no problems.

 

[Unib]

Thanks for the info Pete very useful, I have used an iron to re-activate PVA where veneer has lifted before but not used the technique for edge banding – I'll follow your method and see how I get on

You can also make your own iron-on edge banding.
Cut the veneer strips slightly over sized. Make a PVA glue/water by mixing 9 parts glue to 1 part water, brush on to the banding and allow to dry. Lightly sand the dried glue face to denib. Re-coat the face with the glue/water mix and allow to dry again then iron-on the edge banding. The heat will reactivate the glue. Trim as previously suggested.
I've used this method many times and had no problems.

 

[Distinterior]

I use various heat activated edging tapes in my work (fitting Kitchens) including Veneered edging. Over the years, the adhesive that comes pre-applied on the tapes has improved. I don't tend to use an iron anymore as with the paler coloured tapes, the irons leave marks on the tapes and using a sheet of paper is to much of a fiddle and takes too long.

I now use a Hot Air paint stripping gun and a 35mm wooden roller. The heat from the air gun is more than enough to melt the adhesive and the pressure of the roller ensures good adhesion, and no matter what colour the edging is, you never get any marks on the finished edge.

One of the other advantages of this method is, you can do internal and external curves as well with the same quality of finish.

Tim.

 

[Mark-numbers]

No harm in using contact adhesive for the 5mm thick edging - although not sure where you get that from unless you make your own.

 

[Unib]

Another great idea Tim – I always think the iron is an odd tool to be having in the workshop!

 

[Unib]

Yes I make the 5mm edging myself, it's great but just a bit too time consuming

No harm in using contact adhesive for the 5mm thick edging - although not sure where you get that from unless you make your own.