Iroko for workbench???

[Matt1245]

I have access to tons of iroko off cuts, upto about 2- 3ft long, and after seeing Lord Nibbo's super fine bench i fancy making a propper one myself. Is iroko suitable for this and also, because of the short lengths, i would have to make the top up fron blocks jointed end to end (like an ikea table top). Would this be a suitable way to do it?

Thanks.
Matt.

 

[Scrit]

Iroko is a nice timber, but it does tend to have interlocked grain especially on quartersawn pieces which could make planing and sanding a bit of a pain, so it is generally recommended that a higher cutting angle of 50 degrees is used to avoid picking up the grain. The other thing to watch out for is calcareous deposits (just like teak) which blunt tools quickly.

The Ikea, etc stuff is generally end jointed using a horizontal finger joint for strength, but I reckon a loose tenon would be just as effective. I think you'll still need single pieces for the front, rear and end rails, although there's no real reason for them to be iroko.

Scrit

 

[promhandicam]

I've also been inspired by articles on this forum to make a workbench and chose Iroko for the simple fact that it was what was cheap and available - the equivalent of about £4 for a 7ft 6"x2". The biggest problem that I had however was that the 'dryest' I could find still had a moisure content around 30% .

Planing, as scrit mentioned, was a problem and I wish that I had had his tip sooner rather than now although I guess that the moisure didn't help either. I'm not delighted with the end result but it will do for now and when the wood has dried out a bit then I'll have another bash. The top is joined using biscuits and glue and two M16 lengths of threaded rod - used as I don't yet have any sash cramps and in the hope that they will help keep things together as the timber dries. I'll try and post a couple of photos of the bench as it is (not quite finished).

I should add that the real impetus for doing the bench sooner rather than later was as a result of trying to hand hold a piece of wood that I was trying to plane down to make it cylindrical and ending up needing 4 stiches at the base of my left thumb. :roll:

 

[woodbloke]

As Scrit says, Iroko is good stuff and practically bullet proof, but it's nasty stuff to machine giving off a very peppery dust which can irritate like hell....so IMO make sure that you have good extraction, wear a dust mask etc when machining or sanding this stuff - Rob

 

[promhandicam]

have just worked out how to include a picture - well I hope I have. If you can see a mangled hand then it worked :lol: I will now try and upload some photos of the bench.

Steve

 

[promhandicam]

Well here is a picture of my attempt at making a reasonable bench.

The size is 6 foot x 2 foot x 3 foot high - total cost for the timber about GBP30. As I mentioned earlier, there are two 16mm threaded rods running front to back and the ends can be seen near to the two vises. I will wait a while before making plugs to cover them as the nuts might need tightening.

My one dilema at the moment is the large black lump on the left hand side which I have had since I was an engineering apprentice and so has some fond memories as well as being jolly useful! It isn't fixed yet and I am unsure as to whether I want to spoil my bench by bolting the monster to it - but on the other hand what to do with it as I don't really have space for another metal working bench. As there seem to be several engineers on this forum what do you suggest? I did wonder if there was a simple way of demounting it so as to leave the top of the bench free from obstructions but it is rather heavy to keep moving on and off.

(second attempt at inserting a photo)

 

[Jake]

You could bolt it onto an L shaped piece of wood (flat bit with a batten under one edge) where the batten gets gripped by the wood vice.

 

[mufti]

The only problem may be the glueability (new word) of the timber, and I prefer a bench top to be of a wood softer than the wood used for projects. Otherwise there is a risk of dings in the work.
Iroko splinters are not very nice either.

 

[Matt1245]

OWCH steve, looks like a painfull one. I had an accident with some glass a few weeks ago, but on the back of my hand, healing nicely now though.

Thanks for the replies chaps, given me some things to think about. Will have to see if my chap will run them through his thicknesser for me as i don't have one. Just found out today that i can get beech too, would this be a better option in the long run? I've heard that beech is more unstable than iroko and would prefer to spend more time using my bench than flattening it. Cost isn't an issue as it's all free

Matt.

 

[PowerTool]

Cost isn't an issue as it's all free

Matt.

So how much would you charge for p&p to "redistribute"? .... :wink:


Andrew

 

[Scrit]

Just found out today that i can get beech too, would this be a better option in the long run? I've heard that beech is more unstable than iroko and would prefer to spend more time using my bench than flattening it.

Beech is slightly less stable, but if your work bench is in an unheated, sporadically used shed a work bench top will tend to move over the course of the year, regardless of species. Wooden benches require maintenance from time to time, i.e. the tops need to be cleaned and sometimes even planed off. That's the joy of working with wood

Scrit

 

[promhandicam]

You could bolt it onto an L shaped piece of wood (flat bit with a batten under one edge) where the batten gets gripped by the wood vice.

Thanks for that idea Jake - sounds like a plan 8)

 

[Colin C]

Hi promhandicam,

You could also bolt you vice to some 2x2 with some boltsand put that in the woodwork vice

 

[Matt1245]

So how much would you charge for p&p to "redistribute"? ....

Will have to think about that one. I've always wanted to be rich, shame it's just wood rich :lol:

The bench will start it's life in a central heated spare bedroom, but my be moved to a garage or shed at some point over the next couple of years.

Matt.

 

[Jake]

Hi promhandicam,

You could also bolt you vice to some 2x2 with some boltsand put that in the woodwork vice

Yeah, but then if you start whacking some of that nasty metal stuff with any force it could put a strain on the wood vice, which is why the board with a batten is a bit better (the benchtop takes the strain, the batten in the wood vice just stops the metal vice going for walkies).

 

[Colin C]

Jake

When you put it that way, I think I will be changing mine
Lucky my vice is a small one :wink:

 

[Jake]

I'm sure you make up for it in other ways!

It isn't my idea - taken from one of those workbench/workshop books.

 

[promhandicam]

Matt - how are you getting on with the bench? Did you go for Beech or stick with the Iroko? Did you find someone who could plane it to size as well?

Jake / Colin C - Thanks for the advise Here is what I came up with thanks to your suggestions.

As you can see my big black monster has become a big blue monster to match his woodworking cousin :lol: I was also able to utilise the odd bits of 16mm studding, left over from the workbench construction to bolt the big chap down to the support.

All the best, Steve

 

[Matt1245]

Hi steve,

Still not decided what timber to use. I have bought a planer thicknesser so i can do it myself, but am having problems with it, so i think i'm going to send it back and get it replaced.

Matt.