Insulation gap?

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Hsmith192

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Hi everyone- do you have to leave a gap for insulation when using battons? Or should the insulation be sandwiched between timber?

This is for four internal garage walls by the way!

Be good to get some ideas before I go to wickes!
 
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Hsmith192

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Don't quiet get what you are asking, are we talking walls or ceiling?

With insulation when using PIR board I fill the gap and tape all joints using aluminium foil tape


Hi- sorry I have a garage with concrete walls. Just wanted to know whether I should use battons like 2x1 or 2x2?
And if the insulation goes on top or in between the battons that have been made? I know I want to use 50mm pir board to help keep the heat in my external garage.
I was told about leaving a gap between the insulation and the wall also, is that important?
 
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RobinBHM

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creating a cavity using battens is best for a single skin wall.

although there is a school of thought you can fit insulation tight to the wall, foil tape all joints and use 2 x 1 flat on the top, then VCL then plasterboard or whatever facing. The risk is trapping water getting through the wall, but if it’s always dry anyway, maybe that’s not an issue.





Im guessing this is not for a garage conversion as a living space and therefore requiring building regs.
 

Hsmith192

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creating a cavity using battens is best for a single skin wall.

although there is a school of thought you can fit insulation tight to the wall, foil tape all joints and use 2 x 1 flat on the top, then VCL then plasterboard or whatever facing. The risk is trapping water getting through the wall, but if it’s always dry anyway, maybe that’s not an issue.





Im guessing this is not for a garage conversion as a living space and therefore requiring building regs.
Hi- it’s not a garage conversion for living in but it’s for creating a workshop- but I’m really struggling with working out how to layer it. I was thinking of your method but don’t want mould issues?

Possibly battons with insulation squished in but with a small air gap?
 

Housey210

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My old shop fitting days- 2x1 reg and Counter batten. Plug and fix Floor to ceiling, perp, battens on wall, corners first making sure they are plumb and straight, wedged out if needed. At 400 or 600 cnts fix the intermediate perp back to wall. When done string lines through from corner perps as top, bot and mid points and tweek, wedge out, the intermediates accordingly. Grounds done, counter batten the horizontals at 400 or 600 cnts. Air gap created and as regards insulation, used paper coverved glass fibre roll and foam backed plasterboard on one job. left bare mainly though. Garage, it may pay to do something, double tacking plasterboard does help, at cost of inner wall dims though.
 
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Hsmith192

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My old shop fitting days- 2x1 reg and Counter batten. Plug and fix Floor to ceiling, perp, battens on wall, corners first making sure they are plumb and straight, wedged out if needed. At 400 or 600 cnts fix the intermediate perp back to wall. When done string lines through from corner perps as top, bot and mid points and tweek, wedge out, the intermediates accordingly. Grounds done, counter batten the horizontals at 400 or 600 cnts. Air gap created and as regards insulation, used paper coverved glass fibre and foam backed plasterboard.
Does this match up to what you was saying? It’s just how to create a air gap which I was confused with.
 

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Housey210

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bearing in mind we were doing shops with suspended ceilings, the perp batts would run from floor up into the void allowing for air to enter grid battens from there. a hit and miss vent could be installed at bot. your diagram just shows perps
 
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