Infill component planes...designed & manufactured by Hol

[Alf]

Ah, garolyte goes back a few years to Badger Pond. Roger will better remember the details than I, but basically there was a certain amount of to-do amongst folks when Steve Knight made a plane with a garolyte sole (for better wear I think?). Toys were thrown out of prams in all directions, IIRC. :lol: It's been a bit of a running joke amongst some neanderthals ever since.

Cheers, Alf

 

[philip marcou]

Thanks Derek. The pictures are showing two planes there-both smoothers, bevel up Veritas bladed with adjustable mouth.The one is fitted with Imbuia handle and knob, the other with Rhodesian Teak. I welcome comments, questions, even criticsm from the assembled ranks of planeophiles out there.
Garolyte-thanks Alice you confirmed my worst suspicions. May the Load spare us , but there is some mighty garish artificial stuff out there-Iwouldn't want to see it on even my A.K47 imitation weapon......BUT, then again there , there are other choices which may just barely find a place on a plane that I may make-I am talking of certain grades of TUFNOLL and MICARTA, both known to those who like custom made knives. However, there is nowt to beat good wood, I believe.

 

[Paul Chapman]

They look lovely, Philip

Paul

 

[bugbear]

I am talking of certain grades of TUFNOLL and MICARTA, both known to those who like custom made knives. However, there is nowt to beat good wood, I believe.

Here's a TUFNOL (I think) small router. The plan was published in a magazine IIRC. This one was bought by Bill Taggart.

BugBear

 

[philip marcou]

Here's a TUFNOL (I think) small router. The plan was published in a magazine IIRC. This one was bought by Bill Taggart.

Yes, Bug, that looks like the layered type of tufnoll. There is another smooth brown one which polishes up nicely and makes great handles, jig bodies etc. Would make a practical plane handle, should one suffer a rush of blood to the head.
I have a nasty suspicion that these products contain noxious substances when sanded or heated.

 

[Frank D.]

Hi Philip,
You do lovely work.
I remember seeing your plane on another forum, and I was wondering why you chose a bedding angle of 15° (IIRC). The bedding angle on the 98 is slightly over 20° (I always forget the exact angle), which, for an A2 blade sharpened at an optimum 30 or 32°, gives a planing angle of around 52-55°. As I see it the a higher bedding angle gives more clearance and, along with the sharpening angle that isn't too big, contributes to longer cutting life between sharpenings.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I was wondering why you chose a bedding angle of 15° (IIRC).

I will try and answer that Frank, since Philip is probably still tucked up in bed.

There are similarities between Holtey's #98 and Philip's smoother, but there are many more differences. The #98 is designed as a dedicated smoother with a cutting angle in the York range (actually, the bed is 22 degrees and the bevel is 30 degrees, so the cutting angle is 52 degrees). I discussed the design with Karl and he noted that the length was 9 1/2" + 1" overhang from the tote. It weights 2 kgs.

Philip's smoother is substantially larger and heavier. It is about 11" long and weighs 4 kg. The length comes from adding sole where the tote overhang would be. I will say more about this in the review. Essentially, the plane is a long smoother/short panel plane. It is also intended to function on a shooting board. So the bed angle must accomodate these options, in the same way as the Veritas LA Smoother and LA Jack do. The 15 degree bed is really just a "rounded up" number to make it easier to determine cutting angles. Philip is also building more dedicated smoothers with a bed angle of 20 degrees. It is my contention that this higher bed permits a lower bevel angle, which should hold a sharp edge longer than a higher bevel angle on a lower bed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Frank D.]

Hi Derek,

It is my contention that this higher bed permits a lower bevel angle, which should hold a sharp edge longer than a higher bevel angle on a lower bed.

That's what I suspect too, hence my question, but the shooting capabilities explain the lower bedding angle (especially since I seem to be the only one who prefers a 20° bedding angle for shooting too...).
Thanks,

 

[Ian Dalziel]

very nice Philip,
Lot of work in this.....i saw it a few weeks ago from derek....have you had difficulties in peining with your dovetails at that angle.

I use a purpose made dovetail cutter at 77 degress which leaves a 13 degree dovetail. these are not cheap and i wondered about going the route of 45 degree cutters or not, i was just a bit hesitent at that angle, i got a bit concerned of overpeining .....hardening it ......then chipping but yours look fine.


The plastic i was referring to will be tortoiseshell and going on a very popular stainless plane soon.....nuther exclusive....beautiful

Ian

coat....going

 

[philip marcou]

Thanks Ian. Actually there seems to be confusion over the description of angles and dovetail cutters- I use a "60 degree" cutter, which gives a 30 degree dove, I believe. Anyway, it is a standard(expensive) cutter. I treat them with some care as the sharp look is dependant upon them.