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Inca bandsaw

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Bm101

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Thanks guys. I didn't know it was an original part.
 

HobbyMekanik

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Bm101":258ln994 said:
Welcome to the site. That looks absolutely spotless. Almost new. Congratulations!
Could I ask what the dust extraction is? It looks neat. Samhay has a similar looking port In the photo above and it got me wondering.
I have a cobbled together version that extracts from the bottom of the machine on the side you can remove. I also bought a version from a very inventive forum member that's plastic printed. The only reason I haven't fitted it is that it means you cant tilt the table. It's a cracking bit of kit other than that but requires cutting a hole in the body. Just not sure it's 100 percent the right solution for me yet tbh.
I sometimes just whack the vac nozzle in under the table but its deceptively useless there. Wondering if a port directly under the table or maybe even lower down is better as the dust loses velocity.
Could you take a pic when not too busy?
No worries if you are busy. Regards.
Chris.
Hope this helps Chris!
 

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Bm101

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Brilliant. Thank you for taking the time. John's crevice tool makes sense to me now.
Heres my makeshift attempt. If I remade it I'd engineer it to cover the sides and have an easy clamp system because you have to take it off to remove the side. Not two screws!
And I'd direct the structure inside better for airflow but being narrow it is surprisingly efficient for a ill thought out 15 minute bodge job.





Cheers
Chris
 

Gazz292

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I've just bought a 260 bandsaw, made in 1986, i must say so far i'm very impressed with it, it's so light yet sturdy, and cuts straight as a die with a 9mm blade on it,
It was well looked after by it's last owner (who had died, i really think the next owner of this bandsaw will get it in the same way, only after i'm gone)

I was missing some little parts, one of the top hat washers under the rip fence support bar, it's available as a spare, but it's £13!! so i turned an M8 nut down to replicate one.

As usual it's missing it's mitre guide, but i'm getting a 3D printer for xmas, and someone has designed and shared the file for one, so that will likely be my first print.

The rip fence is missing it's knob, again that's available, at £20 it's slightly better value than the washer, but it's a plastic part, so i'll print one, someone had modeled a very simple version of it, but it's just a cylinder, no hand grips, so i'll model my own.

Same with the blade/table insert, it's got one made of wood atm, but there's a couple of designs to choose from to 3D print.


It came with a few blades,
4tpi 12mm
2 x 6tpi 12mm (from screwfix, need to turn the blade inside out to get it the right way for the inca's 'backwards' running,
14tpi 12mm
and a 6tpi 9mm that was on it, the tyres are in very good condition despite the blade running on the centre of the tyre when i got it.

i've ordered a few more blades, including a 10tpi 19mm, and a couple of 3mm blades, after seeing the fret saw function of this machine (saves me buying a scroll saw)

However to use the 3mm blades i'll need the fretsaw guides, i should be grateful that they are even available, but they are 55 quid, plus vat and £15's worth of postage, makes then just over 70 quid.

Not something i can 3D print unfortunately,
I don't suppose anyone has ever found any cheaper alternatives? or someone got a pair to sell that they don't use?
i was looking at grooved bearings, but can't get any that have a deep enough groove in them.


When the saw is turned off and it's spooling down, it makes a bit of a racket from the top wheel, sounds like it's vibrating, only does it at the speed halfway between full speed and stopped, and only when spooling down,
there dosent seem to be any side to side play in the bearings, the wheel can move back and forwards a few mm on the shaft, it has 2 of the 'precision shims' at the back of the wheel, and one at the front behind the circlip.

Does anyone else have the noise issue i mention? and does their top wheel move as much on the shaft front to back?
wondering if i should get some new bearings for it.
i did try adding a washer behind the shims to take up the front / back play, but it made no difference to the noise.


And finally, it has the original metal blade guides, they'd never even been turned over to use the other side, but i am wondering if i should get some more modern guides?
the ceramic ones are pretty pricey, i've seen people make some out of wood, and believe someone made and sold them? if so, how much and how to i get some.
 

marcros

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most parts, I can't help with. knobs I would expect will be a fairly standard metric thread, I would be surprised if you couldn't get one off the shelf somewhere for a couple of quid.

the guide blocks- I made some from Lignum vitae. they were easy to make, cut roughly to size and refine with either a plane held upside down in a vice, or sandpaper (depending on how far out you are). If you can't get a scrap of lv, a pen blank is one way of getting some. you need approx 10mm x 10mm x 50mm for each guide. I dont recall if there are 2 or 4.

bearings will be off the shelf sizes. the ones around the blade support were really common. I never replaced any others on mine.

The table inserts are consumables. I would print that first and if it works, print a few more and list them on ebay for a few quid. I bet that you would get a few sales over time.

I haven't seen the fretsaw guide. how does it work? on some saws you can make some sacrificial guides from mdf. they dont last too long but are easily replaced. do you actually want to use 3mm blades? can you get 3mm blades anywhere?
 

Gazz292

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The 'official' knob has a hex shaped hole in the end, i guess the fence uses a standard M8 long bolt and the knob just pushes on the hex head, i bet it's not a standard 13mm hex headed bolt either, the parts drawings in the instruction book i printed out shows what may be another top hat washer in the assembly for the bolt that locks the fence,

Anyway, i'm using a standard M8 bolt at the moment, I did put an M8 threaded knob on it, then discovered the knob was too large a diameter and stopped me getting the wood flat on the table, so i went back to the bare bolt for now.



The bearings for the top wheel are needle roller bearings, £30 from inca, but i imagine they are more like £5 the pair from a bearing supplier, i just need to measure them.


Pen blanks for the wood to make guide blocks from, brilliant, i'll look to getting some.
The saw uses 2 angled guides and 2 short straight guides.


The fretsaw guides look like grooved bearings, pressed on a short shaft thats in turn pushed into a bit of ally chanel to give it the square shape needed to slide in place of the usual blade guide block.

Picture below is from inca's site.

i really do like the idea of using a bandsaw for doing intricate curved cuts, like a scroll saw can do. but with the advantage of the wood not being bounced up n down as you cut it :)

i've already ordered a 14 and a 18tpi 3mm blade (well, 1/8" blades, 3.175mm, close enough :)
£10 each from 'just bandsaw blades' that was plus postage and vat n all that tho.

1603753494390.png
 

Gazz292

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I will definately be printing table inserts, but i don't get my printer till xmas.
i've seen a design that prints the prongs that hold it into the table separately... making them printed in the stronger orientation of horizontal printing,
you then glue the pegs into the slots in the bottom of the actual guide, and stick it in the tables hole, job done.

And that would make them a lot easier to post too... being essentially flat pack they could go in a padded envelope rather than a box (as the ones printed with the prongs sticking up would get smushed flat in the post so easily)

There is someone selling them on ebay, the weaker one piece design, he charges a tener each tho, ok i know everyone wants to make a profit, but it's like 50p's worth of filament, and 40 minutes to print.
 

sometimewoodworker

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And finally, it has the original metal blade guides, they'd never even been turned over to use the other side, but i am wondering if i should get some more modern guides?
I’ve had mine since about 1975, it has the original guides and I’ve never turned mine. If they’ve been adjusted correctly during the life of the saw there is little to no wear on them. They work, the saw cuts well, why change them?

FWIW I think that I probably need to, for the first time, change the tyres, but living where I do I have a bit more difficulty sourcing and getting parts.

I have recently replaced the tension spring and last week I had to replace the thrust bearing on the lower guide as it partly seized after almost 50 years of life.

If you get round to printing the table inserts I would like to buy a couple as my original got broken earlier this year. I’m attaching a scan of the manual. If you can tell me the missing parts by reference to that I can measure and get you a better idea of what the part looks like.
 

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samhay

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I bought a couple of table inserts from 3D.plastic too. I think I paid about 10 quid for 2 of them. They fit nicely and seem to be holding up ok.

It looks like it should be fairly straightforward to make the fretsaw guides. I think the channel in the picture is just for shipping and the shaft fits in place of the normal horizontal guides (round peg in a square hole). You could almost certainly do better.
 

BillK

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I use skateboard bearings, dirt cheap but although they're sealed they do get rough-running after a while. My metal guides got a quick smoothing, I haven't had a reason to change them though. Not had it that long about 4 years I think, but gets used nearly every day.

The rip fence knob, mine gave up, I just have a spare 10mm spanner hanging on the shaft instead. I need a new rail for the fence though, will probably have to make one.

I made a quickie manifold effort that mounts under the table for extraction, it's not perfect but helps. I hoover out the bottom of the casing now & then.
 

Gazz292

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Ahh, didnt think about if that bit of what look like ally C channel was to stick in the square hole the blade block goes, or is just there for shipping,

I presume the grove in the 'bearing' will be ~3mm deep, as that's how wide the fret saw blade is,

I can't find any other pictures of the fret guides, i'm assuming it's got a small bearing and a hardened steel 'guide' shrunk on it, but it may be all one piece,
at £70 for those 2 little things delivered... i'm definitely going to attempt to replicate them, i guess the fret saw guides are like the mitre guide on these saws, 90% of owners don't have them, and 95% of those don't need them either.


Re: the table inserts, those ones 3D plastics sells should be good, as he says they are printed in ABS (which is horrible stuff to 3D print... toxic fumes, need for a heated enclosure, high chance of warpage etc... most people have moved onto PETG)
and he wants 6 quid each which isnt bad at all, considering he's a business (well i presume that, so he has more costs than someone who has their printer for hobby use)
one other person on ebay was doing them in PLA (which is what i'd be using to start with) and wanted a tenner each, but with PLA i'd not print it in one piece due to the weakness of the layers on the tiny legs,

the version that prints the legs separately and horizontally will be much stronger, the file for that is below.
And that's what i'll be printing when i get my printer, just wish i could print the fret saw guides... well i could but they'd melt in about 2 blade revolutions :D
 

sometimewoodworker

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Ahh, didnt think about if that bit of what look like ally C channel was to stick in the square hole the blade block goes, or is just there for shipping,

I presume the grove in the 'bearing' will be ~3mm deep, as that's how wide the fret saw blade is,

I can't find any other pictures of the fret guides, i'm assuming it's got a small bearing and a hardened steel 'guide' shrunk on it, but it may be all one piece,
I’ll have a hunt around for my set sometime soon an take some pictures, AFIK they are with the belt sanding accessories.
The bearing is the steel shaft running in the aluminium blocks, the groove guides are fitted to the shaft in someway. The aluminium blocks fit into the horizontal blade guide positions.
 

Gazz292

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i am amazed that how it works too,
i'd think that the guide will be spinning all the time you are cutting, so would have expected a ball bearing in there,
But i guess inca knew what they were doing when they made it, that means the whole guide might be one piece, the bit that looks like a bearing and the shaft.

definately opens up other methods of reproducing them then,
 
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