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Idea for my T-Slot Table Saw!!...

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thomaskennedy

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Well, i first decided that i didn't like the T-Slot when i first made a jig for it, since then, i have got better than when i first started, but not perfect :p

So I plan to stick some MDF or something along those lines with a groove in to accept the track that you can buy from axminster, ontop of the table saw.

I am willing to sacrifice the 18mm or whatever needs be!!

Anyone see any problems with this??

Thanks

Tom
 

Midnight

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tom.... I donno what saw you're using, but (allowing for the hour) I can see one or two probs. The slots NEED to be in perfect alignment with the blade or you're wasting your time; not an easy thing to achieve believe me.
The table on my (piece of junk) saw has the same T-slots. I made some simple but effective hardwood keys to fit them, simply ignoring the T section. It's not perfect, but it gets me in the ball-park. If I allow a wee bit extra when cutting, I can correct any drift with the shooting boards.

If you decide to go ahead with this, make sure your design doesn't impare your easy access to the stop button just in case things go pear shaped.
 

Noel

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So Thomas, Mike,

What's wrong with the T Slots?

Rgds

Noel
 

Midnight

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Noely...

I can only speak from experience with my own saw..

Biggest bugbear is the slot's an odd size; too narrow in width and nothing like deep enough to let a key register properly. After-market mitre gauges are out for that reason. I wouldn't mind if the supplied mitre didn't have so much slop that I'd be more accurate trying to free hand cut... Obviously that's not a table saw cut...

It's just one among many niggles that wind me up whenever I gotta use the saw...
 

Johnboy

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I have done this to my Kity 619. If you look in the pictures in the gallery of my workshop you can see the MDF top on the saw. I am off to work now but will post more details later.

John
 

thomaskennedy

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Midnight-I see where your coming from, but to be honest, it only cost me £70!! :oops: and it's sooooo not square to start with !!!!
I am hoping to upgrade before too long though :p

Noely-As midnight said the slot is an odd size and very difficult to get a perfect fit. Also it bugs me when i have to stretch ALLLL the way over the saw to get it in (as mine has the 'thing' where the fence goes in!).
And it is sometimes fiddly to get it in!

Johnboy-Thanks for that, does it work OK? Is it accurate etc.

Ta

Tom

OHH.... I have just thought of something-what if i cant get my fence on?? :oops: Has anybody made there own fences before??
 

Midnight

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Has anybody made there own fences before??
I doubt if I'd get away with calling it "made" but I've been using a 5ft length of 6mm wall 500x100 aluminium box section as a fence since the 2nd cut on the saw (I dropped the saw into a longer, wider table). Mitre slots were routed into the auxiliary top, the fence is set and locked with nothing grander than a pair of 4" G-clamps.
Rough... but it has one thing going for it that the OME didn't....it works!
 

thomaskennedy

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Hi again,
How do you set it so as it is square to the blade though?? And is it "annoying" to get it sqaure ?? :p

My router table IS really annoying....and that is held in place by two knobs and boy...it gets me angry :p :wink: :wink:

Ta

Tom
 

Johnboy

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I will post some pictures and more details at the weekend. I made the top in 3 sections, taking time to make sure that the centre section was straight and parallel. This is screwed to the top and I aligned it by measuring with digital calipers at the front and back of the blade. Easy to get right. The end sections are just pushed up against the miter fence bar to get a good fit and then tightened. If the slots wear I can adjust them back to a good fit, this also ensures that both slots are exactly the same size. I used 12mm MDF and covered the edges with a molybdenum disulphide filled nylon that I got from Radio Spares, very slippy and hard wearing.

Really pleased so far, it is accurate and combined with the Osborne EB3 mitre fence I got from those nice people at Lee Valley I now use it for mitres in preference to the mitre saw.

Any questions please ask.

John
 

Midnight

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Tom...

the devil's in the detail..... no easy way out. First up, I "zero'd" the mitre slots in the cast top using an accurate square and engineer's ruler. Raise the blade fully and set the ruler square to the blade right next to (but not touching) a tooth at the front of the saw. Mark that tooth with a marker (you'll need it again in a minute). Measure the distance between the tooth and the edge of the mitre slot. Now rotate that tooth al the way to the back, flip your square around and repeat. Compare your two readings, slacken the screws that retain the top to the cabinet and adjust by half the difference of your readings. Repeat as many times as necessary till the readings are identical. Zeroing the aux. top is much the same, although a lot faster. I left generous clarence in the brackets that secure it to the cabinet that the whole rig sits in. With the cast top parallel with the blade (btw that thing with the tooth compensates for any run out in the blade) the mitre slots in the aux top in-line with the slots in the casting, setting the fence is a simple matter of measuring to a mitre slot. I know the offset between the slot and the edge of the tooth, I simply add that to the size I want the piece to end up, clamp the beam down on that dimension (it generally takes a couple of checks at each end to verify) and have at it.

Like I said, it's damn ugly... far from fast... but it's accurate. The additional top gives me up to 30" rip capacity to the right of the blade.
 

thomaskennedy

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Thanks for all the help so far!!

I think it is going to be worth it, especially because i am wanting to make larger cuts on my saw!

Can't wait for the pictures johnboy :p

Midnight-'tis very confusing stuff :p, but, i reckon it's worth the time if you want accurate cuts!!

I'm going on 'me hols' on saturday so i won't get anything done soon...but it is all good knowledge for when i actually begin work on it!

Thanks again

Tom!!
 

Johnboy

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Tom, I wont have time to take any pictures until the weekend when you will be away on your Hols. The picture titled "sw corner" in the gallery shows most of the detail though.

John
 
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