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I made a rebate plane, but..

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Trevanion

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Taper the hole at the top towards the cutting iron so that the shaving ejects outwards rather than curl up in the hole.
 

Osvaldd

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Well, I just enlarged the hole and the shavings don’t get trapped anymore. What a delight.
I doesn't produce nice pig-tail curls though, but it works just as well.
 

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Cool. I have been building a few over the last few days. I think the problem you /may/ have with that design is that the blade will tend to want to rotate around the screw pivot point (only by a real small amount, but enough to cause an issue). You really need two points of contact for a solid fitting.
 

Trevanion

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Good job! No better feeling than doing a job with tools that you yourself made, as you use it you'll figure out its shortcomings and you'll adapt it into a better tool over time. I only just noticed that this plane is a left-handed one, is that on purpose?
 

Osvaldd

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I only just noticed that this plane is a left-handed one, is that on purpose?

NO, I only noticed something wasn't right when I started planing :D
I made the same mistake with my workbench top, I carefully selected the grain direction of all the timbers so it would be easy to plane the top, for a LEFTY. :evil:
 

thetyreman

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in my opinion a wedge would greatly improve it, here was my first rebate plane, and since then I've put a notch/curve in the front side of the wedge so that you can tap it out. Anyway if it works it works, as long as it does the job that's all that matters.
 

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Droogs

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To be a true craftsman, it doesn't matter which hand you use to power your planes, you should be as bad at it either way, just like me :wink:
 

Nigel Burden

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A wedge would definitely secure the blade much better, but the blade is really too short, and tapping it to adjust it would be awkward. If you could screw another screw in a little nearer to the cutting edge it might help. Also, I would smooth out the throat so the shavings aren't so likely to catch.

Nigel.
 

Osvaldd

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I want to buy a metal rebate plane. Was wondering how does no78 compare to no778?
No78's are plenty, could be had for £15-20, but the singe fence rod worries me. The no778 however is very pricey.
 

D_W

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Osvaldd":102qn9l8 said:
I only just noticed that this plane is a left-handed one, is that on purpose?

NO, I only noticed something wasn't right when I started planing :D
I made the same mistake with my workbench top, I carefully selected the grain direction of all the timbers so it would be easy to plane the top, for a LEFTY. :evil:

That can be you with the plane. You'll be surprised how fast you can learn to plane with your non-dominant hand. Probably in one true-up of the bench top. It sticks with you like riding a bike, too.
 

scooby

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Osvaldd":2oeks80a said:
I want to buy a metal rebate plane. Was wondering how does no78 compare to no778?
No78's are plenty, could be had for £15-20, but the singe fence rod worries me. The no778 however is very pricey.
I used to have a 78 (sold it here a long time ago) because I 'acquired' my dad's 778. From what I recall, the main difference is the depth adjustment and fence locking. The 778 has a screw thread depth adjuster, 78 has a lever. 778 fence locks on 2 bars, 78 just the one.
I'd just buy the cheapest if I were you as the differences are minimal. The only reason I sold the 78 was because I'd lost the fence.
 

Jarno

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I think one needs to be more than a little bit hamfisted to bend or break the fence on a rebate plane, but it helps that the 778 has two rods. This will also help in tuning it to be parallel.
I like my 778 a lot, I think the depth adjustment works better than the lever.
 

thetyreman

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the no78 is really good, not had any problems with mine, lindas on here had a really nice vintage record no78 that she offered me for sale but I'd already bought a boxed stanley from another member on here, it had all the parts and was in good condition, worth contacting her to see if it's still available.
 

Nigel Burden

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I bought a Woden 78 and a Millers Falls block plane at the Stock Gaylard Oak Fair for £3. Both rather rusty but to my surprise the block plane cleaned up without the need for any harsh treatment. The 78 went in the electrolysis bath and cleaned up ok.

The plane was missing the depth stop, front knob, and fence. I made a knob out of some maple and a depth stop out of some steel plate. The fence was more complicated as I didn't have any suitable materials other than wood. I had some 5/16 inch rod to which I tapped a 5/16 BSF thread. I decided to use some oak to make a fence. To this I screwed two 3/16 inch steel rods. I then made up two short pieces of oak to screw on to the 3/16 rod with 5/16 holes to slide on the rods that attach to the plane body. To lock the fence I drilled a small hole to take a screw that could be tightened on to the rods.

This fence set up is not elegant by any stretch of the imagination, but it works, and the plane cuts well.

I would post pictures, but being something of a technophobe, I am absolutely useless with things like that, much to the despair of my wife and children.

Nigel.
 

MikeG.

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I've often wondered why it is called a moving fillister plane, as though there is a stationary version.

I'm sure the plane is wonderful.........but I love the mallet. That's what a mallet should look like.
 
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