How to Set the "Adjustable equaliser bearing"

[Rhyolith]

A number of single pinion old hand drills have a small bolt that rides up against the crank wheel, keeping the cogs on the drive pinion gear in engagement under load. Such an mechanism can be seen in place of a second pinion on this Millers Falls No.1 pictured here:
Millers Falls No.1 by Rhyolith, on Flickr
I can make a pretty good guess at how hard the bolt is supposed to ride up against the crank wheel (biggest gear with the spokes (does this have a "proper" name?)). However, it feels like something there should be a method for... in other words there should be a perfect position for the bolt or the "Adjustable equaliser bearing" as i have heard it called. Does anyone know how to do this?

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

Search for website "Syndnas Sloop" as I believe George has an article or two describing the guide wheel (believe he calls it "the little railroad wheel" or something similar. He sells tools on that site, and if he doesn't have an article posted on the drill, email him and he can guide you to where you can find one. Another source is to look in the "Wood Central" archives, posted on the their site.

 

[AndyT]

I don't know if it counts as a "method" but on my No2 I just shifted the eccentric round until it was snug, then turned the bevel gear round slowly. It reached a point where it tightened up - presumably the casting is not perfectly flat - so I loosened the eccentric a bit more so it ran past the tight spot. Finish.

 

[Rhyolith]

On my No.1, the ed of the bolt just rides straight up against the casting (no wheel). What I do now involves somewhat more guesswork, but is not dissimilar to what you do Andy.

I might take a close up of the mechanism in question, its not that clear on the existing photo...

 

[AndyT]

This is what I was talking about. Is it what you meant?

 

[Rhyolith]

No thats not what I meant. Will photograph it to show.

 

[Rhyolith]

Here is the thing in question.
Untitled by Rhyolith, on Flickr
Untitled by Rhyolith, on Flickr

 

[AndyT]

I see now - I was led astray by Tony's comment though i guess the same method would work. Is the end of the screw just plain, where it rubs on the bevel gear?

Maybe I need a MF No 1...

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

This is what I was talking about. Is it what you meant?

That was also the one I was referring to.

 

[Rhyolith]

I see now - I was led astray by Tony's comment though i guess the same method would work. Is the end of the screw just plain, where it rubs on the bevel gear?

Maybe I need a MF No 1...

Its like a little dome at the end, this just rubs directly up against the crank wheel. I have seen similar things on those fairly common budget Miller Falls breast drills (forgotten the number), but those are not adjustable like this. I don't really know why the No.1 is adjustable actually, there seems no functional purpose for changing the balance pressure on there crank wheel outside the "optimal".

I am pretty confident mine is set-up acceptably, but an established method would still be handy to get it bang on....

I have 2 MF No.1s, this one is great defiantly the smoothest hand drill I own. The other is a but worn out and not so good. If you see one in good nick they are well worth having, though I had to pay through the nose for this one (£30!).

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

I'm going to have to search through my "opportunity box" of egg beaters and see if I got one like that. I like the one I referred to and AndyT pictured-easy to dial in and also smooth.