How to safely turn very thin

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Stigmorgan

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So I want to try turning a close to paper thin walled piece, I don't really know what exactly, maybe a lampshade or something. Can anyone point me towards anything that explains the method/best woods to use?
 
I once saw a demonstration of lampshade turning at a craft fair in Vermont. He was turning aspen (poplar) and he used a light inside the shade to judge his wall thickness. Not being a wood turner I didn't stop for long at his stand so I can't help any more than that.
Brian
 
If you're planning a lampshade I would first try a cutting a few thin veneers using a saw and shine a light through, I suspect the thinness you'd need to get any light through may be unturnable. Perhaps some firm of fluid may help to make the wood more translucent.
 
+1 for Michael O'Donell. Also several vids showing the technique on YT. Best bet is to start with really green wood and keep it wet whilst turning if you can. This guy is humorous and informative at the same time...

 
If you're planning a lampshade I would first try a cutting a few thin veneers using a saw and shine a light through, I suspect the thinness you'd need to get any light through may be unturnable. Perhaps some firm of fluid may help to make the wood more translucent.
No, I've watched it done. It's done with clear straight grained easily worked green timber such as birch or sycamore.
 
I suspect that a light coloured wood would be best, as above.

David Ellsworth talks about using a wet paper towel on the outside of a thin bowl to stop it drying out.......@ about 1:15:00 or so in this video.

 
If you're planning a lampshade I would first try a cutting a few thin veneers using a saw and shine a light through, I suspect the thinness you'd need to get any light through may be unturnable. Perhaps some firm of fluid may help to make the wood more translucent.
I just used lampshade as an example, ive seen a couple of youtube videos do it but they don't really/explain any difference in the method such as speeds/tool angles etc


Thanks guys I'll give those a look over, it seems to me that getting the walls super thin is a skill challenge and I really want to give it a go but worry about the whole thing blowing apart just from the centrifugal forces of the lathe spinning.
 
The technique of using light to determine thickness is used in turning a hat, often a stetson type, as produced by Phil Irons or Andrew Hall et al.
 
Turning thin bowls first you will need to be happy doing this if any doubts then practice your tool handling some more first.

But this is how I approach doing it, the blank needs to be nice and dry especially if you are a slow turner otherwise it may distort while turning. now turn the outside to finished dimensions and take that to completion depending on finish do that now, now to the inside start by working in 1" depth increments taking each depth to completion thickness and finish keep doing this until you are down to full depth. Never try to go back once you have completed the bowl not even to touch up as this is where things will go wrong and after putting so much work into it you can spoil the whole thing.

The whole process should be carried out within a couple of hours as even what may seem like a dry blank can warp while working on it some woods may even start moving within minutes. Knowing how wood react is just down to experience.

I can now complete a bowl within less than an hour depending on wood type and hardness a standard thickness may only take 30 minutes but these time are only due to the amount of practice I have had
 
There are some great techniques described here already. If I may complement these with some techniques I found helpful when first starting...
The greener the wood the better... pay attention to how the wood is cut, as the final warped piece may look odd or be unbalanced. Branches with natural / wany edge work well and generally warp consistently around. Knots are not your friend! The rim will dry quicker due to centrifugal force / sapwood v heartwood
Apply water to the inside / outside frequently with a brush (wear a visor... you will get sprayed - with sap and water).
Until you're proficient with achieving finishing cuts at the speed required, use various grades of wet wet and dry abrasives to get that finish should you find that the piece has begun to warp mid turning.
Pay attention to the base, too thin and it will warp to the extent that your piece wont stand up correctly, too thick and it will split. Extending the drying out period can help by basting with water over a a few days.
Use a bright light to shine inside the piece.. preferably a non heat producing LED.
You asked about the best woods to use... I found the dense hardwoods easier and more forgiving when I first started out.. Holly and Laburnum especially.
On a side note, if the wood you are using is freshly green and a light colour, standing it in water mixed with dye will draw the colour up through the sapwood.

Happy Turnings!
 
The layer method of hollowing as described is the way to go but I'd recommend turning green timber. There may be distortion of the form depending on grain direction but it isn't an issue with the hollowing by layers.
 
I just used lampshade as an example, ive seen a couple of youtube videos do it but they don't really/explain any difference in the method such as speeds/tool angles etc


Thanks guys I'll give those a look over, it seems to me that getting the walls super thin is a skill challenge and I really want to give it a go but worry about the whole thing blowing apart just from the centrifugal forces of the lathe spinning.
If it’s close to paper thin and wet wood. It would be like getting hit by a wet lasagna noodle at 500 rpm. At 12 inch diameter I think that’s 17.8 miles per hour. I can’t see it hurting with a full face mask on. But tell us how it goes. Video of it blowing up on first try would be nice. Slow motion preferred! I see those Hawaii guys soak it in an oil poly mix for a few days to impregnate wood and make more translucent.
 
If it’s close to paper thin and wet wood. It would be like getting hit by a wet lasagna noodle at 500 rpm. At 12 inch diameter I think that’s 17.8 miles per hour. I can’t see it hurting with a full face mask on. But tell us how it goes. Video of it blowing up on first try would be nice. Slow motion preferred! I see those Hawaii guys soak it in an oil poly mix for a few days to impregnate wood and make more translucent.
It's gonna be a long time until my skills are good enough to attempt this but will do my best to provide video entertainment when I do 😁😁😁
 
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